Recieved Eric Shea/Mueller CV Kit, Will replace CV's and Bearings this weekend... Options

[TROJANMAN]

pep boys had a set of 3 for that tool also - i think for $15

make sure you give it a light tap into the bolt head before you start turning. those 12 points are notorious for stripping out.

[Eric_Shea]

I thought this tool and others like it was developed so that the trailing arms did not need to come off?

I think it's easier (on the wallet) to take the arms off (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

However, we're talking about replacing CV's not bearings. Thanks for the plug Britain. I'll be following along. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[BKLA]

Britain -

PM'd ya...

I also have the PP socket. You are welcome to borrow it, however I am a little GU

(East Portland near Mt. Tabor)

Maybe we could meet somewhere in between?

[mightyohm]

I think it's easier (on the wallet) to take the arms off (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Not if you have to get an alignment afterwards. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Britain Smith]

I thought this tool and others like it was developed so that the trailing arms did not need to come off?

I think it's easier (on the wallet) to take the arms off (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

However, we're talking about replacing CV's not bearings. Thanks for the plug Britain. I'll be following along. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Acutally, I am doing the bearing while I am there replacing the CV's. How would it be easier on the wallet? I am guessing because you can screw them up if you do it on the car. I did the ones on the 911 rear suspension while on the car. I just want to avoid having to get an alignment since I am really happy with my current setting and don't have a recording of what they are.

-Britain

[Britain Smith]

Britain -

PM'd ya...

I also have the PP socket. You are welcome to borrow it, however I am a little GU

(East Portland near Mt. Tabor)

Maybe we could meet somewhere in between?

That might be a bit far, thanks for the offer though. I will try to pick one up at Napa today. If I have issues finding one, I will get back in touch with you.

-Britain

[Britain Smith]

Hey Bryan, are you the guy that works at Chicago's Pizza?

-Britain

No, not me, but pizza sounds pretty good right now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif)

Too bad. There is a white 914 with fuchs painted like yours that works at Chicago Pizza in Hillsboro. I have been meaning to leave a note.

-Britain

[Britain Smith]

Well, it only took 10 hours of straight work to replace both rear wheel bearing and all 4 CV's, but everything is back together now and I drove it to work this morning with no issues. That was a lot of work and I am glad that I did it because the driver rear CV which I had suspected to be going out, basically feel apart once I had it out of the car. I will post some pictures when I get home later today.

As for the kit, here is a little message that I had sent to Eric Shea and Mike Mueller (providers of the kit) to give my feedback. I sent this to them yesterday and wanted to get the "ok" before posting it on the board.

My message to them:
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Eric and Mueller,

Coupe of items regarding your CV kits.

1. First of all, thank you very much for provide a service for 914 owners when the orginal parts are NLA. The machining looked great.

2. The kit needs to have instructions. I had questions regarding the orientation of the spring washer that goes on the axel before the CV joint and how to get the spring clip on cause it was a royal pain in the ass. I got it cleared away, but was difficult to say the least.

3. The metal bands had no home. Because the rubber boots were pressed into the gold zinc metal plate, there was no need in my opinion for the metal bands. It only confused the issue because there were no instructions.

4. The bolts. I got 13 hex bolts and 3 12-point bolts. I decided to got ahead and use the three 12-point bolts on one of the outboard joints cause I figured it will be quite a while before I will ever have to pull the off again, but it was annoying anyway.

5. The washers. Wait a second, I got no washers!!! The description on your website says it has everything thing that I need...where are the serrated washers? I am glad that I had previous ordered a set of bolts from Dr. Evil for my 912 project cause I stole all that I need. However, now I will have to order more washers from Dr. Evil unless somebody wants to send me some...hint, hint. For someone who does this project on a daily driver (me) and needs to get it done over a weekend or even one day (me), they would have been screwed without washers.

6. Gaskets. I know your website points it out that the gaskets are not included, but I think you should just include them in the kit. Raise the price a couple of bucks, but it is kinda annoying to have to order them seperately. Just my thoughts on that one, no biggy.

Again, thanks for offering such a product. I did not want to post this on the board without consulting you guys first. I replace all 4 CV's and both rear wheel bearing in about 10 hours of work straight. I went ahead and removed both heat exchangers to aid in the pound out of the wheel bearing since I did not want to pull the control arms.

-Britain

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My quick response from Eric Shea regarding my message:

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Thanks Britain,

Never thought about instructions. I always looked at them like I do bearings I guess. I've never got CV's with them in the past. Sounds like detailed instructions would be a good idea. It would help those that don't have the proper manuals as well.

I'll check with Mike on Bolts. We ordered both Meyle and Lobro. Sounds like Mike got the bolt inventory mixed up a bit.

Schnoor washers. Thanks again. I was unaware they were not included (these get drop shipped to Mike's shop). That's easy enough. I'll get some on order this morning. Also not sure about the straps... I'll check with Mike.

I agree with the gaskets as well. As long as we tear the kits apart to machine them, we can easily put in the gaskets.

Thanks for your input. It will help make the kit better for others.

Eric

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I am glad that we have vendors like this on our board, especially ones that offer alternative to NLA products to keep our cars on the road. I am not sure if the bearing or CV's on my car have ever been replaced, but with 215,000 miles on the clock I shouldn't have to do them again any time soon.

-Britain

[Eric_Shea]

Thanks Britian,

Good feedback does help make a better kit.

200 washers on order. They will be a part of the kit.

Gaskets are now part of the kit.

I think it's easier (on the wallet) to take the arms off

Not if you have to get an alignment afterwards.

Still easier on the wallet (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Mueller]

mixed bolts??

I keep telling myself I need better lighting on that side of the garage (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Sorry about that....


I'll have to do a quick instruction sheet, shouldn't be too difficult...I also want to make a short video on how to re-install the cage assembly if you end up removing it....takes about 20 seconds once you get the hang of it....

[jwalters]

How difficult, in your opinion, was removing the races from the stub shafts of the flange?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Eric_Shea]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Britain Smith]

How difficult, in your opinion, was removing the races from the stub shafts of the flange?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I am assuming that you are talking about the CV joints from the axels...in that case, it wasn't too bad. I just pulled back the rubber boot, removed that damn snap-ring on the end, and tapped on it with a hammer and punch tool. Now, getting it back together was a bitch cause the snap-ring felt like it was too small and never would expand enough to get over the axel. Once I got it started, I used a large socket to tap it down cause the spring washer on the inside of the joint it pushing back at you.

Hope that makes sense.

-Britain

[Dr Evil]

I think he meant how was it getting the hub out of the rear wheel bearing, or the stub out of the hub.

[jwalters]

I am talking about the outer bearing race. The one which stays stuck like herculean glue to the stub shaft. I have always had to resort to extreme measures to get these puppies off so I can press the stub back into the new bearing.

Make sense???


J

[Eric_Shea]

It would be the inner race and now it's starting to make sense. When the hub is yanked from the control arm, many times the inner race from the split bearing stays on the hub.

To remove you would use heat. They slide off fairly easily if heated up properly. If you have a stubborn one you can carefully cut it with a dremel carbide wheel. once you get close to the bearing surface on the hub it will usually split.

[jwalters]

It would be the inner race and now it's starting to make sense. When the hub is yanked from the control arm, many times the inner race from the split bearing stays on the hub.

To remove you would use heat. They slide off fairly easily if heated up properly. If you have a stubborn one you can carefully cut it with a dremel carbide wheel. once you get close to the bearing surface on the hub it will usually split.

ok- THE OUTER, INNER RACE -- (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I need more coffee - (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[Britain Smith]

Ah, I see now. I didn't not have any issues but I would do what Eric said if I did.

-Britain

[SirAndy]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)

[Eric_Shea]

I have a bunch of hubs with the inner race stuck to them back at the shop. I'll take some pictures of the problem and the solution tonight and post.