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> Hand/hammer formed flares, started today 4 my 17x8's, live update, got a pro working on them :)
Mueller
post Nov 12 2006, 06:22 PM
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started the drivers side rear qtr panel..this was about 10 minutes worth of work...
...going for a faux GT flare look....


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DanT
post Nov 12 2006, 06:25 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) looking good Mike....I likey.
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Aaron Cox
post Nov 12 2006, 06:27 PM
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nice!!!

so step 1, palm nailer. step 2 - planishing hammer?

very cool man! does it wake the kids up?
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Mueller
post Nov 12 2006, 06:29 PM
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QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Nov 12 2006, 04:27 PM) *

nice!!!

so step 1, palm nailer. step 2 - planishing hammer?

very cool man! does it wake the kids up?



yep, palm nailer...word of warning, don't "test" the palm nailer on your hand...ouch.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

kids are at granndpas house with mommy...time for daddy to play (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
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SGB
post Nov 12 2006, 06:45 PM
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This is really cool. Post a picture of a palm nailer. I think this is THE way to do flairs. John the ghia guy who handformed his (as shown in his avatar- I'm blanking on the screen name though) was having a class in this this past weekend. I would like to learn this. Does it get sofeter as you work it, or do ya just beat the sh!t out of it until it is where you want it? Take some more pictures- difernt angles, etc. Is this the first side?
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McMark
post Nov 12 2006, 07:45 PM
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Mike, I need to have John Kelly make me a pneumatic planishing hammer. It makes quick work of smoothing out the lumpy-ness.

Aaron, without a planishing hammer setup, it's hammer and dolly work to take out the lumps.
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Andyrew
post Nov 12 2006, 10:05 PM
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Awesome!!

All to familiar..

Now the hard part... Getting it how you want...

THEN making it the SAME on the other side.
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Andyrew
post Nov 12 2006, 10:07 PM
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Scott. John Kelly is the name you want.

The metal is consistant, actually as you go from a flat metal to a rounded metal, the metal becomes stronger, yet ever so slightly thinner.

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PanelBilly
post Nov 12 2006, 10:21 PM
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You can get an optional hard rubber plug that threads onto the palm hammer. We use them at work for pressing in PVC t-mold. The plug has about a 1.25" diameter and the impact is spread out much more than the nail fitting
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Trekkor
post Nov 12 2006, 11:19 PM
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Pretty good.

Keep going.


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So.Cal.914
post Nov 13 2006, 01:11 AM
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I kind of like that baby GT flair look, keep up the good work.
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John Kelly
post Nov 13 2006, 08:17 AM
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Way to go Mike! There are a couple of ways to smooth that are faster than hammer and dolly...without a planishing hammer. The first one is a slapper replacing the hammer. It covers more area than a hammer head, so each blow is slightly more effective. The second way is to make a nearly flat die to fit over the bolt in your palmnailer. First use the carriage bolt or my updated tooling (see my album link below) to stretch, then use the nearly flat die (with sand bag on the outside) to go over the area you have stretched. This will do a lot of smoothing for you. Make sure the sand bag is packed really tight with sand. Has your carriage bolt shaft mushroomed yet? I started using a grade eight bolt and homemade dies instead...holds up better. Maybe the rubber die that panel billy mentioned could be used with a piece of hard plastic held on the out side of the fender to smooth after the initial stretching? Depends on how hard, wide, and flat it is.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/comm...d=9980138836765
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dmenche914
post Nov 13 2006, 08:27 AM
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Just remove the flares off that black car in the background, and weld them on!!!

Nice job at it. do you plan any heat treatement to soften the metal up? Too much streching of the steel might allow it to crack later. Maybe get it hot, then slow cool????
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jsteele22
post Nov 13 2006, 10:40 AM
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QUOTE(John Kelly @ Nov 13 2006, 07:17 AM) *



John, I love that thrift store purse idea. CSOB points to you.

Mike, nice work. Keep the pics coming.
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John Kelly
post Nov 13 2006, 12:59 PM
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dmenche914, heat is not required. The metal will take a lot of stretching before any failure...especially if you smooth the metal betweeen stretching sessions.

jsteele22, It's a fine line between cheap and frugal (smile).

John www.ghiaspecialties.com
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jsteele22
post Nov 13 2006, 05:11 PM
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QUOTE(John Kelly @ Nov 13 2006, 11:59 AM) *


jsteele22, It's a fine line between cheap and frugal (smile).




You mean like giving the purse to the wife as a Christmas gift ?
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Mueller
post Nov 13 2006, 05:43 PM
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thanks for the replys.....

John, would small steel shot work better in the bag?

I'm not a fan of the sand dust.....

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G e o r g e
post Nov 13 2006, 05:48 PM
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Mike work looks great

after you polish your skills on yours , can i send you 2 rear qtrs that you can turn into a couple of johns flares? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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GWN7
post Nov 13 2006, 06:00 PM
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QUOTE(Mueller @ Nov 13 2006, 03:43 PM) *

thanks for the replys.....

John, would small steel shot work better in the bag?

I'm not a fan of the sand dust.....


Dampen the sand with a spray mister as you load it in the bag......
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Mueller
post Nov 13 2006, 06:25 PM
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QUOTE(GWN7 @ Nov 13 2006, 04:00 PM) *

QUOTE(Mueller @ Nov 13 2006, 03:43 PM) *

thanks for the replys.....

John, would small steel shot work better in the bag?

I'm not a fan of the sand dust.....


Dampen the sand with a spray mister as you load it in the bag......



it's a sealed leather'ish bag I got from MarkD
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