 How to prime 1980SC Chain Tensioners |
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| Wild 6 |
 Nov 26 2006, 09:48 AM
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#1
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See you at the next autocross.  Group: Members Posts: 212 Joined: 16-November 04 From: Phoenix, AZ Member No.: 3,128  |
Can someone tell me how to prime the old style 1980SC chain tensioners? Thanks.
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| ArtechnikA |
Nov 26 2006, 10:32 AM
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#2
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rich herzog Group: Members Posts: 7,390 Joined: 4-April 03 From: Salted Roads, PA Member No.: 513 Region Association: None |
It's in the Haynes 911 book, and IIRC, the "Lash" (née Clymers) 914 book.
I'll see if I can't get a scan for you... Basically, it's: immerse the tensioner in a bucket of oil. use a bent wire to depress the bleed valve, exert thumb pressure on the plunger (repeatedly) to pursuade air bubbles to emerge, withdraw the bent wire. |
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| Wild 6 |
Nov 26 2006, 10:52 AM
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#3
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See you at the next autocross. Group: Members Posts: 212 Joined: 16-November 04 From: Phoenix, AZ Member No.: 3,128 |
Thank you. I guess you have to remove it to see the bleed valve. We were just trying to figure it out before removing the old tensioner.
QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ Nov 26 2006, 09:32 AM)  It's in the Haynes 911 book, and IIRC, the "Lash" (née Clymers) 914 book. I'll see if I can't get a scan for you... Basically, it's: immerse the tensioner in a bucket of oil. use a bent wire to depress the bleed valve, exert thumb pressure on the plunger (repeatedly) to pursuade air bubbles to emerge, withdraw the bent wire. |
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| Cap'n Krusty |
Nov 26 2006, 11:11 AM
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#4
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
If they're solid when you press hard on the shaft, they don't need any "priming". If they're soft, buy the kits and rebuild them. Full instructions in the factory shop manual. Or send 'em to me and we'll do it for you, and add tensioner guards. The Cap'n
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| Wild 6 |
Nov 26 2006, 08:13 PM
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#5
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See you at the next autocross. Group: Members Posts: 212 Joined: 16-November 04 From: Phoenix, AZ Member No.: 3,128 |
Thanks Cap'n,
We just got the rebuild kits, but don't have the manuals. I'm hoping this is something a long-time mechanic can figure out with a little help from his friends. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif) QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Nov 26 2006, 10:11 AM) If they're solid when you press hard on the shaft, they don't need any "priming". If they're soft, buy the kits and rebuild them. Full instructions in the factory shop manual. Or send 'em to me and we'll do it for you, and add tensioner guards. The Cap'n |
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| ArtechnikA |
Nov 27 2006, 05:10 AM
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#6
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rich herzog Group: Members Posts: 7,390 Joined: 4-April 03 From: Salted Roads, PA Member No.: 513 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(Wild 6 @ Nov 26 2006, 09:13 PM) We just got the rebuild kits, but don't have the manuals. If you're rebuilding them, I'd definitely add the tensioner guards... Attached image(s) 
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| sixnotfour |
Nov 27 2006, 06:47 AM
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#7
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 10,432 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains 
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Rich thats is a very early unsealed tensioner picture, but shows the ball valve.
The 80 SC has the way later 930 style which is sealed , so you have to remove a snap ring and the reservoir top and a few other pieces, and then you can bleed/prime as the pic., you also have to bleed the reservoir when putting the top back on. QUOTE If they're soft, buy the kits and rebuild them. Full instructions in the factory shop manual. Or send 'em to me and we'll do it for you, and add tensioner guards. The Cap'n If you're rebuilding them, I'd definitely add the tensioner guards... Attached thumbnail(s) 
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