Full Version: How to prime 1980SC Chain Tensioners
Can someone tell me how to prime the old style 1980SC chain tensioners? Thanks.
It's in the Haynes 911 book, and IIRC, the "Lash" (née Clymers) 914 book.
I'll see if I can't get a scan for you...
Basically, it's: immerse the tensioner in a bucket of oil. use a bent wire to depress the bleed valve, exert thumb pressure on the plunger (repeatedly) to pursuade air bubbles to emerge, withdraw the bent wire.
I'll see if I can't get a scan for you...
Basically, it's: immerse the tensioner in a bucket of oil. use a bent wire to depress the bleed valve, exert thumb pressure on the plunger (repeatedly) to pursuade air bubbles to emerge, withdraw the bent wire.
Thank you. I guess you have to remove it to see the bleed valve. We were just trying to figure it out before removing the old tensioner.
It's in the Haynes 911 book, and IIRC, the "Lash" (née Clymers) 914 book.
I'll see if I can't get a scan for you...
Basically, it's: immerse the tensioner in a bucket of oil. use a bent wire to depress the bleed valve, exert thumb pressure on the plunger (repeatedly) to pursuade air bubbles to emerge, withdraw the bent wire.
QUOTE(ArtechnikA @ Nov 26 2006, 09:32 AM) 
It's in the Haynes 911 book, and IIRC, the "Lash" (née Clymers) 914 book.
I'll see if I can't get a scan for you...
Basically, it's: immerse the tensioner in a bucket of oil. use a bent wire to depress the bleed valve, exert thumb pressure on the plunger (repeatedly) to pursuade air bubbles to emerge, withdraw the bent wire.
If they're solid when you press hard on the shaft, they don't need any "priming". If they're soft, buy the kits and rebuild them. Full instructions in the factory shop manual. Or send 'em to me and we'll do it for you, and add tensioner guards. The Cap'n
Thanks Cap'n,
We just got the rebuild kits, but don't have the manuals. I'm hoping this is something a long-time mechanic can figure out with a little help from his friends.
If they're solid when you press hard on the shaft, they don't need any "priming". If they're soft, buy the kits and rebuild them. Full instructions in the factory shop manual. Or send 'em to me and we'll do it for you, and add tensioner guards. The Cap'n
We just got the rebuild kits, but don't have the manuals. I'm hoping this is something a long-time mechanic can figure out with a little help from his friends.
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Nov 26 2006, 10:11 AM)
If they're solid when you press hard on the shaft, they don't need any "priming". If they're soft, buy the kits and rebuild them. Full instructions in the factory shop manual. Or send 'em to me and we'll do it for you, and add tensioner guards. The Cap'n
QUOTE(Wild 6 @ Nov 26 2006, 09:13 PM)
We just got the rebuild kits, but don't have the manuals.
If you're rebuilding them, I'd definitely add the tensioner guards...
Rich thats is a very early unsealed tensioner picture, but shows the ball valve.
The 80 SC has the way later 930 style which is sealed , so you have to remove a snap ring and the reservoir top and a few other pieces, and then you can bleed/prime as the pic., you also have to bleed the reservoir when putting the top back on.
If you're rebuilding them, I'd definitely add the tensioner guards...
The 80 SC has the way later 930 style which is sealed , so you have to remove a snap ring and the reservoir top and a few other pieces, and then you can bleed/prime as the pic., you also have to bleed the reservoir when putting the top back on.
QUOTE
If they're soft, buy the kits and rebuild them. Full instructions in the factory shop manual. Or send 'em to me and we'll do it for you, and add tensioner guards. The Cap'n
If you're rebuilding them, I'd definitely add the tensioner guards...
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