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> Engine Rebuild Recommendations, ...economical more HP optons??
vesnyder
post Nov 27 2006, 11:08 AM
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I currently have a stock 1.7l and 1.8l motors with D-jet and L-jet FI and am looking for economical rebuild options. Would like to increase the HP to at least 100 (maybe more?) but want to weigh all my opptions before I begin. Ideally would like a Raby motor, or even the $5k option, but given the current value of this car I have real trouble justifying. What would you recommend to get a 100+HP reliable motor for as cheap as possible, given what I have to start with. Hoping to do most of the work myself - at least what makes sense.
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G e o r g e
post Nov 27 2006, 11:18 AM
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1911 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Jake Raby
post Nov 27 2006, 11:22 AM
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Since you have a 17& 1.8 core the 1911 would be the most economical way for you due to the core charges associated with a 2056 engine..

At the budget level there are many options... Of course some are better than others.
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G e o r g e
post Nov 27 2006, 11:22 AM
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listen to Jake engine rebuild on a budget show

1911 = 96 P and C's, stock crank and rods, use your 1.8 get Raby's 9530 cam use your l jet should make 100 hp. change exhaust add mallory you'll be happy.

with fresh heads from len and parts, probably around 1500-2000$ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Edit Jake is fast on the rebuild reply's Cheers
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Mueller
post Nov 27 2006, 11:24 AM
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QUOTE(vesnyder @ Nov 27 2006, 09:08 AM) *

I currently have a stock 1.7l and 1.8l motors with D-jet and L-jet FI and am looking for economical rebuild options. Would like to increase the HP to at least 100 (maybe more?) but want to weigh all my opptions before I begin. Ideally would like a Raby motor, or even the $5k option, but given the current value of this car I have real trouble justifying. What would you recommend to get a 100+HP reliable motor for as cheap as possible, given what I have to start with. Hoping to do most of the work myself - at least what makes sense.


have you listened to the Raby radio show that covers budget Type IV builds??

I'm guessing not (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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McMark
post Nov 27 2006, 11:29 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Build a 1911 and build it yourself. Go with carbs or aftermarket FI (probably carbs in your case because it'll keep the costs down). The stock FI really limits the HP potential. Get rid of that restriction and really let it open up and it'll be an awesome little motor.
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anthony
post Nov 27 2006, 11:35 AM
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I'd source a 2L crank and rods and make it into a 2056. A crank and rods usually goes for around $200-250.
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Chris Pincetich
post Nov 27 2006, 02:59 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Nov 27 2006, 09:29 AM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Build a 1911 and build it yourself. Go with carbs or aftermarket FI (probably carbs in your case because it'll keep the costs down). The stock FI really limits the HP potential. Get rid of that restriction and really let it open up and it'll be an awesome little motor.


Interesting! I had not heard that stock FI limits HP in ~2L TIVs... Do we agree that HP gains are achievable with aftermarket FI vs stock on a 2056? Aftermarket FI is a good investment IMHO so that future rebuilds can go bigger, but I was not considering it for round 1 at near stock displacement. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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anthony
post Nov 27 2006, 03:35 PM
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Stock FI still limits how agressive of a cam that you can use. Tuning D-Jet for a non-stock setup can also be difficult.
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McMark
post Nov 27 2006, 03:38 PM
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If I were building a 1911 for myself, I'd make one that would rev HIGH and just shift late and keep the RPM up.
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Jake Raby
post Nov 27 2006, 03:43 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Nov 27 2006, 02:38 PM) *

If I were building a 1911 for myself, I'd make one that would rev HIGH and just shift late and keep the RPM up.


then the stock FI would be the first thing to toss!
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McMark
post Nov 27 2006, 03:45 PM
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Exactly! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) I'd NEVER build a stock FI engine for myself.
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vesnyder
post Nov 27 2006, 05:23 PM
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OK - the stock FI is gone. I assume on a budget pick up some Webers? I need more detail on the 1911, but it sounds like what I need to do. $1,500-2,000 sounds about right. For the 1911, do I need to source new 96 P&C's, or is that what the 1.8 has? Is the 2l crank and rods an option with the 96 P&C's? How much for the Raby 9530 cam? How much for the head work?
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Jake Raby
post Nov 27 2006, 05:34 PM
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All my flat tappet cams and lifters are 275.00 for the matched set, no matter the grind..
96s are a possibility for a 2.0 crank, but the pistons are different for each arrangement due to the pin heights.

The 1911 is a 96mm bored 1800, the 2056 is a 96mm bored 2.0

if you'd listen to my radio shows youd know this!
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vesnyder
post Nov 27 2006, 05:41 PM
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QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Nov 27 2006, 06:34 PM) *

All my flat tappet cams and lifters are 275.00 for the matched set, no matter the grind..
96s are a possibility for a 2.0 crank, but the pistons are different for each arrangement due to the pin heights.

The 1911 is a 96mm bored 1800, the 2056 is a 96mm bored 2.0

if you'd listen to my radio shows youd know this!


I am listening as I write this, so I will be much smarter when I post next!
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ChrisFoley
post Nov 27 2006, 06:44 PM
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I got a 1.7L up to about 140hp with a Web 86A (street) cam, hd single valve springs, reworked Weber 40IDFs, 1.8L heads with stock dia. stainless steel valves, and good port work. It wasn't too bad at low rpm and really came alive above 4K rpm.

Oh yeah, and a Tangerine EVO Header!
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jwalters
post Nov 27 2006, 06:51 PM
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QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Nov 27 2006, 07:44 PM) *

I got a 1.7L up to about 140hp with a Web 86A (street) cam, hd single valve springs, reworked Weber 40IDFs, 1.8L heads with stock dia. stainless steel valves, and good port work. It wasn't too bad at low rpm and really came alive above 4K rpm.

Oh yeah, and a Tangerine EVO Header!



Hey, what would be your personal thoughts on the 86A ???
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G e o r g e
post Nov 27 2006, 07:40 PM
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QUOTE(vesnyder @ Nov 27 2006, 09:08 AM) *

Would like to increase the HP to at least 100 (maybe more?) but want to weigh all my options before I begin.



with 100 being your minimum, and $$ being a concern

you should hit 100 hp by increasing your P And C's and new Cam, saving money on your Factory fuel injection

now if you want more, who doesn't, everything you change will effect something else

IE Aftermarket EFI/ Carbs, to really see major benefits you need to upgrade exhaust

hell, look at the bolt on power thread, exhaust is the #1 choice for improvement

if you had listened to the exhaust show 2 weeks ago you could have picked up the Tangerine header system complete at a 20% discount.
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Hammy
post Nov 27 2006, 07:50 PM
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QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Nov 27 2006, 04:44 PM) *

I got a 1.7L up to about 140hp with a Web 86A (street) cam, hd single valve springs, reworked Weber 40IDFs, 1.8L heads with stock dia. stainless steel valves, and good port work. It wasn't too bad at low rpm and really came alive above 4K rpm.

Oh yeah, and a Tangerine EVO Header!

Wow. Interesting.....
How long would an engine like that last?
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Chris Pincetich
post Nov 27 2006, 10:04 PM
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QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Nov 27 2006, 04:44 PM) *

I got a 1.7L up to about 140hp with a Web 86A (street) cam, hd single valve springs, reworked Weber 40IDFs, 1.8L heads with stock dia. stainless steel valves, and good port work. It wasn't too bad at low rpm and really came alive above 4K rpm.

Oh yeah, and a Tangerine EVO Header!


Now we're talkin! Not exactly a "budget rebuild", but quite a package out of a motor most people sell compete for <$500 (I got mine with FI for $350). I see myself rebuilding along this route but with aftermarket FI. I think daily driving a high compression aftermarket FI 1.7 would be pretty cool, with good gas mileage in the 3-3.5K rpms and AX HP at 4.5-6.0K rpms. If more details are revealed, I'm ready to take notes (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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