carb conversion thread, could be classic Options

[Jake Raby]

Here is one for ya! This thread could be 100 pages from what I could say alone.

First oiff, realize that 90% of the people telling you to keep stock FI sell the parts that make it work! They like to keep you constantly refreshing their wallets with your greenbacks!


With that said, here is a combination that will work with almost any mild 2.0 or a tad larger engine, especially if it has a stock FI cam.

Here it is with Webers:
40mm IDF
32mm venturi
125 main jet
55 idle jet
F11 Emulsions
200 air correctors
mixture control scres set to about 1.5 turns from bottom, maybe less.

With a set ofDellorto 40 DRLA
Try a 34mm Vent (stock)
140 main
60 idle
.2 emulsion
35 pump squirter
mixture control @ 1 turn from bottom, trimmed to smooth it out.


Set up a Mallory unilite with no more than 30 degrees full advance, with Grey/grey springs and about 12-13 degrees initial advance. This will ake for s advance. This set up is almost all we ever use for stock, and slightly bigger 2056 engines, it works on 90% of them on the dyno perfectly!


I choose the mallory 5 to one over a MSD arrangement. The MSD is half as adjustable, and is more difficult to work with in the car, as it requires boxes and chips. The Mallory works perfectly with the Bosch Blue coil and no external boxes. I have a Mallory in every car that I own, and have not touched mine in thre 912 in 41,000 miles! The nicest part of a mallory is being able to get the full advance you need, and the initial advance as well. Most dizzys require you to jack the full timing to 35 degres to be able to aide at 12-13, where the engine is happiest with carbs and a lazier cam. This cleans up the bottom end, AND keeps that top end cleaned up for higher revs. Overadvanced timing kills top end power, retarded timing kills bottom end and makes the car idle like crap with carbs.

[echocanyons]

Jake, are you factoring in all elevations too?

[Jake Raby]

That works well for sea level to about 2K feet, for every 1000 feet above that go down one jet size as a general rule. I can calculate it if someone needs me to./

[echocanyons]

Cool, I went from 5-7k elev to sea level and need to adjust things.
This will be very helpful to me(and others)

[Jake Raby]

Thats all that matters! Some things do chenge it, but an engine built effficiently are going to basically be the same.

[Aaron Cox]

i have a set off 44's on my 2.0. theyre a little big. dont know the lift of my cam. they have all stock jets and such. whats a reccomended setup w/ 44's.

The car breathes great at 3K and up!

[r_towle]

Brad, How big can your future FI system go????

How big of an engine??????

Im in if you can make it run one of Jakes big engines...

Rich

[thesey914]

The nicest part of a mallory is being able to get the full advance you need, and the initial advance as well. Most dizzys require you to jack the full timing to 35 degres to be able to aide at 12-13, where the engine is happiest with carbs and a lazier cam

Jake, so you recommend 12-13 deg at Idle and no more than 30 deg full advance? I always thought that 35 deg was a good thing.....thanks for the thinking re-adjustment.
Is the vacuum Mallory worth getting?

[Brad Roberts]

Richard,

I dont (yet) have the flow numbers or air volume requirements for anything larger than a 2270 right now. I want to get this first one under my belt and driven for a month or two before we start making wild ass claims. The current flow numbers tell us that the stock 2.0 runners/lntake plenum/ will supoprt the needs of a 2270 with some room to spare.


B

[2teeners]

Pat4-

What rods are you using to get the wristpin diameter down to 22mm? do you just put a smaller pin into the 2.0 rods?

I might want to do the same myself.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Brad Roberts]

VW T1 rods.


b

[2teeners]

those won't fit a 2.0l crank will they?

[Brad Roberts]

Not stock they wont. I knew that he had T1 pistons (which use the 22mm pin) We have a lot of people using T1 rods+pistons on a welded T4 crank for the T1 rods. It is MUCH cheaper this way and like Pat said.. the pistons are lighter.

Hopefully Pat will speak up when he sees this.


b

[2teeners]

where can i get my crank welded so they will fit? That's a combo I'd like to use.

Thanks

[pat4]

No T1 rods ! We'll keep the T4 rods but we will change wrist pin bushings to fit the 22mm pin.

The car will enter at the mechanic january 5th. I will take many pics of any operations and I will report you.

[Jake Raby]

I have done it that way before, back before we were having our cranks made.
The problem with stock rods is they are too short and too heavy. The TI rod has the same journal diameter as a 1.7/1.8 crank (2.165) and are just narrower. The stock 2.0 rod journal has way less load bearing surface on the rod bearings- thats why they spin bearings 5 times more often than a 1.7/1.8!

These crank, and rod s with a better ratio, with the lighter piston is one of the keys we used to unlock the TIV power with less displacement!


Above someone mentioned that their car ran better with 35 degrees timing- Thats not the case unless the engine is seriously inefficient in its design(deck too tall)

Overadvanced timing kills top end power and makes heat- The car feels fast, but your killing it!