The Nando Build - Tear down thru First Start, Power for your budget....Both ways! Options

[jwalters]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Hello all!

Welcome to the "NANDO BUILD"!

From this first page onward the saga of one mans quest for Uber reliable power will unfold..

My good friend Nando (martinef1963 - club member here) has experienced engine power problems. He has made the decision to rebuild for two primary purposes:

1 - Must be stone reliable and all things working (heat)

2 - Must make more power than stock.

I went down to his house which is about 45 minutes away and helped him pull the engine. We then loaded the engine is his beast and brought it back to my skunk works: "Exhaustive Solutions".

And thus began the teardown -

But let me back up for a moment. Nando was unsure of just where to go with his motor. Size wise, power wise, money wise, etc, etc.

So I took him for a ride in Black Sabbath - Here is what comprises my motor build:

1.7 liters

Original 1971 90mm pistons and cylinders (almost worn out, I just did not have the money for upgrade when building, which is what many of you, are in the same predicament) These have a fair amount of blowby, and are probably affecting my overall compression ratio by -2 points by guessing..so prolly around 7.1:1 at least.

A SCAT C20 cam -

Weber 40mm IDF's with stock vents, 120 mains and 45 idles with F7 tubes.

Short manifolds

2 liter headpipes with monza manta exhaust

009 with crane optical

Now I am the first to admit, my motor is not "new", nor is it at full power levels had I had the money to do it the way I wanted....

I'll just let Nando tell you all what HE thought-----

Back to the motor: This is one reason why low power----



These are the really small valve 1.8/2.0 heads. W/o cleaning thay look to be pretty good, will know more when cleaned ---



I have some bolt-on power mods I have been working on for quite some time now, and a few will be incorporated into Nando's engine. I am using Black Sabbath as my on-road test bed. Everything I do is backed up by road tests and chassis dyno tests.......Stay tuned for info and pics. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif)

[jwalters]

Here better pics of Nando's bored out 96mm cylinders ----

Not enough material there for my personal tastes.............



'nuther shot --

[martinef1963]

1st would like thank JWalters for his help and savy on this project.

I did give him a brief history, or what I know of the engine. It is a California engine that my old mechanic (Domonic - on the board) procured for me back in 1997-1998. I drove the car from Vacaville CA to Atlanta and it stayed there for a year while I was off doing some contract work in BumFuckiStan (one of the Stans).

I had some body work done on it, paint etc., but really just kept up w/ the oil changes, tune-ups, etc (nothing major). Bout two months ago it started to smoke real bad and died one day- later to find out that a plug or two were soaking in some oil. And here begins the Nando Build.

I will also be doing some rust work in the hell hole - not bad. I will be posting some pictures today and of progress. Could kick myself in the arse for not taking some pictures of the before, but none the less the top side of the engine was a very basic 1.7 FI set up.

Getting back to the ride I took/drove in Black Sabbath - WOW! The ride was unbelievable - I thought my car had it going on (NOT). The car had plenty of power w/ awsome response and it cornered incredibly! I can't wait to get my girl on the road.

I will be posting some pictures of the work that I will be doing to her while the engine is pulled. Hood, and engine compartment.

I did get a good mix of responses on my Powder Coat/Ceramic question/concerns and have decided to leave the SS alone (polish them), powder coat all of the heat related tin, engine compartment tin, and some other items.

mz

[jwalters]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Whuts up dude?

Did you jump on that piston / cylinder combo??

I have the heads soaking in degreaser - going to run down to work and get my valve spring compresser - - I think they are going to clean up really nicely!

[jwalters]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) The only two pushrods form the entire assembly with damage -

Also from the same cylinder - #3

[martinef1963]

Here are some pictures of the progress of the engine compartment. JWalters has the engine at his place and we are waiting for parts to start the rebuild. While the engine is out I will get the rust out of the hell hole - not bad at all. Ordered a battery tray and support from AA - in the mail.

[jwalters]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Man, today has been rough - had company x-mas party last night. All day today I have been - (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) .........think someone forgot to wash after wiping...........

Ok, so now it is late in the day and feeling a little better -

So I go out to the skunk works to try and get something accomplished.



On another thread there was a little discussion about "oil sludge".

This is what sludge is:

and the following is what sludge will do for you...............




Basically, sludge is formed from byproducts of combustion, not being lifted, carried out of, and filtered by the engine system. Two things:

1. Poor choice of chosen oil - quaker state aquired a very bad rap for causing so much sludge buildup and engine failure that: I almost "AVOID" at all costs to not even look at a bottle while in my favorite FLAPS --

I personally use an oil designed for air-cooled piston aircraft. EXXON multi-grade ashless dispersant - this stuff is made from the word go for high heat aircooled engines. No problems with seals being ate up or anything else for over a year of use now. But I change it very, very frequently. This oil will scrub the engine very much so and quickly dirty up the filter. I go about 2K max and change it -

But everybody has their favorite oils to use - this is just mine-


anyway:

2. high heat producing engines. In particular aircooled engines. Because of so much thermal expansion and cooling contracting, tolerances easily open up to the point of the part or system is compromised - allowing non-full performance of designed part and allowing too much seepage of cumbustion products into the crankcase.

[jwalters]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) Quite the wear pattern, eh?

[jwalters]

Nuther shot:

[jwalters]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif) Well, glad to be back on the club site! GREAT JOB Andy!!!!

A very funny wear pattern on the dizzy drive gear - I have been into allot of aircooled engines and the markings here almost mystify - - Something is outta whack - everything I have seen so far points to excessive heat soak, wayyyy rich burning, and frankly, the "rebuild" has me puzzled..

Nando told me he has all of 6K on this motor ---hmmm

[jwalters]

These heads have an unbelievable amount of build-up on them - about .060 in some places ... Soon you will see close-ups of the valves themselves.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

Nando - you are in someones good graces because frankly, I do not see how you have not grenaded this motor completely....

[jwalters]

Possibly some free metal and most likely improper deburring resulted in this main bearing scoring and gougeing....

[jwalters]

#1 rod cap bearing ---

[jwalters]

And the small end.............of same rod..............



Now off back into the skunk works to pull some valvage...............

[jwalters]

OK, NOW to some nittie - grittey --

The heads are a hodgepodge of parts - some sodium valves, some not - some new intakes, some not - a few guides new, a couple very worn (due to oil?? not replaced?? I can only speculate- )

Here is the first intake I cleaned and discovered:

Wouldn't it be cool if the picture was to full scale??

Not just corroded, but corroded and fractured in an almost perfect circumference corresponding to the seat face !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I got my 45power magnifying glass out and if only I could take a picture of that view!!!!

Holy crap...........It is in a way, sorta beautiful.....in a cheating death kind of way...

[jwalters]

Nuther shot....

[jwalters]

OK, whuts next??

Exhaust valve from same side of head - if you look very, very closely you can see on the outside shoulder area on the middle rim of the valve head,,,

You might be able to make out where the metal has pounded so violently it is actually "curled over" --- if you think you see deposits - those are not deposits - it is valve material folded and squeezed to a ridge...........

[jwalters]

'Nuther shot...........



quick edit: How about that corrosion?!?!?!?! All facing material corroded off to about 120 grit surface.................

[jwalters]

'Nuther shot --

[jwalters]

OK- Here are the seats --- notice the build-up of carbon in the exhaust port - choking prolly about 30% of total port size in an already choked down exhaust...

Nando, by what I have seen so far - if the wear was much better, and all that carbon build-up was not there, my man you would have known the difference in power output!! Also, curious as to what brand and type of oil you use? - and, has it been used for the duration of ownership? - this is good stuff dude, probably help a person or two by this thread -

This pup is going to scream again one day soon!! Ready to spend more money???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hide.gif)