Hello all!

Welcome to the "NANDO BUILD"!

From this first page onward the saga of one mans quest for Uber reliable power will unfold..

My good friend Nando (martinef1963 - club member here) has experienced engine power problems. He has made the decision to rebuild for two primary purposes:

1 - Must be stone reliable and all things working (heat)

2 - Must make more power than stock.

I went down to his house which is about 45 minutes away and helped him pull the engine. We then loaded the engine is his beast and brought it back to my skunk works: "Exhaustive Solutions".

And thus began the teardown -

But let me back up for a moment. Nando was unsure of just where to go with his motor. Size wise, power wise, money wise, etc, etc.

So I took him for a ride in Black Sabbath - Here is what comprises my motor build:

1.7 liters

Original 1971 90mm pistons and cylinders (almost worn out, I just did not have the money for upgrade when building, which is what many of you, are in the same predicament) These have a fair amount of blowby, and are probably affecting my overall compression ratio by -2 points by guessing..so prolly around 7.1:1 at least.

A SCAT C20 cam -

Weber 40mm IDF's with stock vents, 120 mains and 45 idles with F7 tubes.

Short manifolds

2 liter headpipes with monza manta exhaust

009 with crane optical

Now I am the first to admit, my motor is not "new", nor is it at full power levels had I had the money to do it the way I wanted....

I'll just let Nando tell you all what HE thought-----

Back to the motor:Click to view attachment This is one reason why low power----


Click to view attachment
These are the really small valve 1.8/2.0 heads. W/o cleaning thay look to be pretty good, will know more when cleaned ---



I have some bolt-on power mods I have been working on for quite some time now, and a few will be incorporated into Nando's engine. I am using Black Sabbath as my on-road test bed. Everything I do is backed up by road tests and chassis dyno tests.......Stay tuned for info and pics.

Here better pics of Nando's bored out 96mm cylinders ----

Not enough material there for my personal tastes.............
Click to view attachment


'nuther shot --
Click to view attachment

1st would like thank JWalters for his help and savy on this project.

I did give him a brief history, or what I know of the engine. It is a California engine that my old mechanic (Domonic - on the board) procured for me back in 1997-1998. I drove the car from Vacaville CA to Atlanta and it stayed there for a year while I was off doing some contract work in BumFuckiStan (one of the Stans).

I had some body work done on it, paint etc., but really just kept up w/ the oil changes, tune-ups, etc (nothing major). Bout two months ago it started to smoke real bad and died one day- later to find out that a plug or two were soaking in some oil. And here begins the Nando Build.

I will also be doing some rust work in the hell hole - not bad. I will be posting some pictures today and of progress. Could kick myself in the arse for not taking some pictures of the before, but none the less the top side of the engine was a very basic 1.7 FI set up.

Getting back to the ride I took/drove in Black Sabbath - WOW! The ride was unbelievable - I thought my car had it going on (NOT). The car had plenty of power w/ awsome response and it cornered incredibly! I can't wait to get my girl on the road.

I will be posting some pictures of the work that I will be doing to her while the engine is pulled. Hood, and engine compartment.

I did get a good mix of responses on my Powder Coat/Ceramic question/concerns and have decided to leave the SS alone (polish them), powder coat all of the heat related tin, engine compartment tin, and some other items.

mz

Whuts up dude?

Did you jump on that piston / cylinder combo??

I have the heads soaking in degreaser - going to run down to work and get my valve spring compresser - - I think they are going to clean up really nicely!

The only two pushrods form the entire assembly with damage -

Also from the same cylinder - #3

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Here are some pictures of the progress of the engine compartment. JWalters has the engine at his place and we are waiting for parts to start the rebuild. While the engine is out I will get the rust out of the hell hole - not bad at all. Ordered a battery tray and support from AA - in the mail.

Man, today has been rough - had company x-mas party last night. All day today I have been - .........think someone forgot to wash after wiping...........

Ok, so now it is late in the day and feeling a little better -

So I go out to the skunk works to try and get something accomplished.



On another thread there was a little discussion about "oil sludge".

This is what sludge is:
Click to view attachment
and the following is what sludge will do for you...............




Basically, sludge is formed from byproducts of combustion, not being lifted, carried out of, and filtered by the engine system. Two things:

1. Poor choice of chosen oil - quaker state aquired a very bad rap for causing so much sludge buildup and engine failure that: I almost "AVOID" at all costs to not even look at a bottle while in my favorite FLAPS --

I personally use an oil designed for air-cooled piston aircraft. EXXON multi-grade ashless dispersant - this stuff is made from the word go for high heat aircooled engines. No problems with seals being ate up or anything else for over a year of use now. But I change it very, very frequently. This oil will scrub the engine very much so and quickly dirty up the filter. I go about 2K max and change it -

But everybody has their favorite oils to use - this is just mine-


anyway:

2. high heat producing engines. In particular aircooled engines. Because of so much thermal expansion and cooling contracting, tolerances easily open up to the point of the part or system is compromised - allowing non-full performance of designed part and allowing too much seepage of cumbustion products into the crankcase.

Quite the wear pattern, eh?
Click to view attachment

Nuther shot:
Click to view attachment

Well, glad to be back on the club site! GREAT JOB Andy!!!!

A very funny wear pattern on the dizzy drive gear - I have been into allot of aircooled engines and the markings here almost mystify - - Something is outta whack - everything I have seen so far points to excessive heat soak, wayyyy rich burning, and frankly, the "rebuild" has me puzzled..

Nando told me he has all of 6K on this motor ---hmmm

Click to view attachment

These heads have an unbelievable amount of build-up on them - about .060 in some places ... Soon you will see close-ups of the valves themselves..

Nando - you are in someones good graces because frankly, I do not see how you have not grenaded this motor completely....

Click to view attachment

Possibly some free metal and most likely improper deburring resulted in this main bearing scoring and gougeing....

Click to view attachment

#1 rod cap bearing ---

Click to view attachment

And the small end.............of same rod..............

Click to view attachment

Now off back into the skunk works to pull some valvage...............

OK, NOW to some nittie - grittey --

The heads are a hodgepodge of parts - some sodium valves, some not - some new intakes, some not - a few guides new, a couple very worn (due to oil?? not replaced?? I can only speculate- )

Here is the first intake I cleaned and discovered:

Click to view attachment Wouldn't it be cool if the picture was to full scale??

Not just corroded, but corroded and fractured in an almost perfect circumference corresponding to the seat face !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got my 45power magnifying glass out and if only I could take a picture of that view!!!!

Holy crap...........It is in a way, sorta beautiful.....in a cheating death kind of way...

Nuther shot....

Click to view attachment

OK, whuts next??

Exhaust valve from same side of head - if you look very, very closely you can see on the outside shoulder area on the middle rim of the valve head,,,

You might be able to make out where the metal has pounded so violently it is actually "curled over" --- if you think you see deposits - those are not deposits - it is valve material folded and squeezed to a ridge...........

Click to view attachment

'Nuther shot...........

Click to view attachment

quick edit: How about that corrosion?!?!?!?! All facing material corroded off to about 120 grit surface.................

'Nuther shot --

Click to view attachment

OK- Here are the seats --- notice the build-up of carbon in the exhaust port - choking prolly about 30% of total port size in an already choked down exhaust...

Nando, by what I have seen so far - if the wear was much better, and all that carbon build-up was not there, my man you would have known the difference in power output!! Also, curious as to what brand and type of oil you use? - and, has it been used for the duration of ownership? - this is good stuff dude, probably help a person or two by this thread -

This pup is going to scream again one day soon!! Ready to spend more money????

Click to view attachment

The heads are where it is all at....................jammin good heads = jamming time while cruising the strip.......................

Click to view attachment

All things considered - this is where you never want to take a chance - the heads are where it is at.........

Click to view attachment

More MONEY? If my wife only knew how much this was costing already I would have to make new residence in Harley's (dog) house!

As to your question about the oil - I have always used Castrol - ran it in my MG & MGB - had no probelms.

I'll give you a call tomorrow to see what happens next - I haven't recieved anything in the mail (yet).

I've attached two pixs of what I've done to the air shroud, heat tin around the cylinder heads, engine mount bar, etc...

I'm having the car delivered for the hood, quarter panel work sometime tomorrow.

Will let you sleep in til 0500... Thanks for the update.

Hey want to paint that engine before you put it back together - we'll talk in the AM.

Bro - you call me that freaking early and we are going to have some issues........................

They just might have to shut the place down again.................
























































Excellent work on the go-fast goodies! You got them powdercoated? Right?






















oh, and the money its just another 5 grand or so is all...........................

Negatory brother - spit & polish like the AF taught me! Degreased them, degreased them some more, broke out the wire brush drill attachment and went to work.

The black paint is 1200 degress, the red is 500 degrees. I want to work on the trany, but am concerned about corrossion. I have bagged off the cv joint connections butt (pun intended) is open to a bunch of debris, etc.

Any suggestions/recommendations?

Yea, just unbolt them and pull them out....it is a good time to do it anyways - those tranny seals are only a few bucks. Mine were 4 bucks each at aircooled. And the stub shafts just pull right out...

Then just tape over the holes - you were gonna drain and refill the tranny anyways, right??

You know Nando - I just realized something - Trinket looks very happy to be holding that fan shroud...

Based on what I know about how she feels about the teener.....

She is either getting enthused at the idea of remaking your car - - or - -

(And this is the one I am leaning to.............)

She is thinking " HA! Your car is in pieces ......I win!"

Time for an update! Over the months we have been awaiting machine work, and the occasional part and widget to arrive via snail mail ---

To once again pick up where left off:


Nando working diligently to tap full flow fittings into the case...
Click to view attachment
Went well..............

Getting set-up to begin lapping in the valves and barrels. To re-iterate, this thread is primarily for the benefit of those who would like to know / does not already know, the internal workings and going-on of our engines--
Click to view attachment
OK - Two heads. Each respective valve will be lapped into its seat and each barrel will be done the same. This is head "A" and the valves are marked 1A, 2A, etc with the respective corresponding marking on the head itself. During a build things will get moved and possibly fall off the bench, etc. This will ensure each part goes back to where it needs.

OK -this is the start - notice the valve lapping (grinding) compound in the tube and the wood dowel with suction cup on the end..these are instrumental to fitting a valve to its seat..
Click to view attachment

Operation is very simple - I put four dabs of liquid sandpaper (grinding compound) at four equal spaces on the valve seat and then insert the valve into the head. Then choosing the appropriate suction cup (both items available at any FLAPS) I suction cup the dowel to the valve and begin to work the valve back in forth with very little downward force. Pretend like you are playing with play-doh, or, imagine how scotty b pleasures himself.. After about 5-10 good rubs... I then purposefully rotate the valve 90 degreees and do it all again. And again through to a full 360 degrees, 90 degrees at a time. This is the result:
Click to view attachment
This is best case scenario with very old heads. These seat are in very good shape and were not over-ground at the machine shop. This is evident by the discolored line in the middle of the seat. A good solid and equal grind line at midpoint is very, very good, this is telling you the builder that this valve will seal very well. It does not take a lot of pressure and it also does not take long when you have good parts to begin with. (these valves are brand new)

And this is what the corresponding seat will look like--
Click to view attachment
The red stuff is just dykem - a machinists dye. This helps you visually very well..The seat on the left has been lapped - the seat on the right has only been ground at the machine shop and is not yet fitted to the valve face --

' things will move and possibly fall off of the bench" ??? Oh brother here we go.....


"well after falling off of the bench it seems that the majority of cooling fins have "dislodged themselves" so now we are trying to locate a suitable replacement head"

I don't know about this whole thread it's starting to remind me of one of those late night cheesy info -mercials

Ok, so now off to lapping in a barrel now that I am done with the valves on this side. What I am not showing now, which I will show soon, is how no matter how highly you trust your machinist, or how good they really are, you NEED to lap the barrels to the heads. Future pics will show in detail why ---
Click to view attachment
The same rule for the valves apply here - four good sized dabs of liquid sandpaper, let the weight of the barrel be the downward pressure - and 5-10 good strong rubs.. Rotate 90 degrees, repeat, repeat. Keep doing it a little at a time unitl a "uniform" discoloration and width are evident. And then stop. When done with care, a minimal amount of material is lost.

Here is a very good visual of the barrel to head sealing interface:
Click to view attachment
Once again, the left side is lapped, the right is not, yet anyway....

'nuther shot...
Click to view attachment

One more shot for posterity..
Click to view attachment
The key with THIS operation is TAKE YOUR TIME AND GO EASY WITH THE WHOLE PROCEDURE!!

Nobody wants to do things twice----the second time being after the engine is in the car and running and leaking combustion everywhere---

You would know, wouldn't you, you loser......

Ok - back at it. Finished the basic build-up the other day and am now in recuperation mode. Nando and I ran a marathon day of building, getting last minute things, eating and drinking somewhat heavily


Click to view attachment

It was really nice to get this build done - this was the engine I wanted to do for BlackSabbath, but , just was not able to do it---

A good friend of mine made a post, back a little, poking fun at how things "might" fall off a table---- if the mayhem in the last picture is any indication - it could happen!

But, knocking on wood, I, being the pre-immenent master constructor - made a table/workbench of such sturdy stature, that only another Spartan such as myself could accomplish.......

Click to view attachment

What made this build ever more the merrier is that it seems only a scant year ago,,,,,in a galaxy far, far away --- I Nanado for not tightening his sparkplugs enough.....

And now here he is building the beast for one of the very few-known-to-exist teeners in SoFl ----

Click to view attachment

Ok, more info now for those of you who would really like to build their own, but are a little timid ---

Nando, chime in here bud, I know you 'thought' this project to be overwhelming,,,but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Ok, back to the 'lapping' in the heads to barrels interface...

This picture I hope shows the high and low spots of the sealing area.
Click to view attachment
What you see here is the actual sealing area with only four complete turns of the barrel with lapping compund. Point to note is that there IS contact area around the entire circumference. It is just that at the bottom of the pic, the contact width is the full width of the barrel ~7.5mm and the top area is only ~ .75mm.

When the head is torqued this small measurement will increase a modicum - but keep in mindthis: the traditional auto engine head is torqued anywhere from 95-200 lbft depending on if USA designed or elsewhere, and not the fraction lbft of the T4 engine.......

Click to view attachment

This is the dead simple operation of lapping in the barrels with grinding compound - these heads were rebuilt with new guides and a three angle valve job, and all new valves.

this is a very important operation and goes along the same lines of lapping in the valves - you are ensuring complete sealing = longevity

This is what you are looking for when mating the camshaft gear and crank gear - this camshaft is the venerable web 86A

Click to view attachment

quick edit - I use my toaster over to heat the crank gear and dizzy drive gear to 400 degrees F - the dark stuff on the gear that looks like it was not cleaned enough, well, that is only left over pizza sauce ....

Click to view attachment
here is the same head after some judicious lapping and stroking -

This one about used up my patience - I had to lap the other side a little more to keep the heights the same - it is still not quite a full contact, but I cannot go anymore due to an uneven height relationship between the two sides - however, it is more than serviceable, and still has to be torqued and go through a full heat cycle. I have no worries here.

A quick shot of the internals---this case is a very early "W" one. It has no provisions for a windage tray---

Click to view attachment

I have torn open quite a many of these engines and almost always find these missing - they are stabilizers, or, harmonic dampers for the case thru-bolts. A good idea to always use these. I have seen these bolts snap from the vibes frazzling them inside the case. Very long bolts with no support at all in those holes..I, and Nando, had to special order these. I do not think they come in any of the standard gasket paks...

Click to view attachment

OK, here is a highly coveted secret I will now pass on to all. Do not use any type of hardening silicone on pushrod tubes!!! When an engine like the T4 goes from full cold to full hot in can grow upwards of 10mm!!!!

The secret: Toyota transaxle packing compund - AKA 'red stuff' --- it is non hardening and will move with the tubes as the flex --highly viscous, it pulls and fills in voids --

Do not use for case halves tho!!!!!
Click to view attachment

Yours truly demonstrating how to assemble a piston/cylinder assy on a rod..

Click to view attachment

I must say I am pleasently surprised with these AA Products piston/cyl assemblies. The machining marks were of excellent quality, the pistons are stunning, and when pistons removed for the lap process, the rings were installed on the pistons perfectly!! very impressed..

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Very nice...

Nando doing the other side...
Click to view attachment

And assembling the other head - -this stuff is really, really simple and not the way some would have you believe -- just have your machine work done by a very reputable place and check it - -trust but verify!
Click to view attachment

This is a rarity for me - second time in 15 years -- the oil pump drive gear was not pressed fully home on its shaft - - this is a shadeck unit - before and after 'fixing' the problem...
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment