OK, I did it! 3.0l 6 ready to make it happen, Any tips are welcome. Options

[brp914]

That does seem the cheepest and easiest. How hard is it to set the timing?

with cis you may need to time off the front pulley which isn't much fun, but once done, its done for good.

re: accumulator. I'm sure there are those who know cis more than I, but since you have it, since it's there for a reason, why not use it?

As for wiring, it's not too bad, but it's too much to describe here. If you have a factory -6 you can get a schematic from Art at:

8514 Los Olivos Dr
San Gabriel, CA 91775-1855
(626) 614-8030

[Jeffs9146]

Thanks for the info, keep it comming!

re: accumulator. I'm sure there are those who know cis more than I, but since you have it, since it's there for a reason, why not use it?

Did you keep it?

Jeff

[brp914]

yep, accumulater installed.

I think you'll need to take off the oil cooler and have a 90 degree put on the inlet and adapt it to your existing lines. Which means yanking the whole induction and shroud.

the flywheel bolts go bare against the flywheel. the torque spec wasn't enough to keep them tight. Mine came loose, but I caught it before disaster. I heard of a case where a flywheel came off. I then put the sob's on gud and snug and used threadlocker.

[Jeffs9146]

I think you'll need to take off the oil cooler and have a 90 degree put on the inlet and adapt it to your existing lines. Which means yanking the whole induction and shroud.

OK, so I need to remove the oil cooler? I was told that I could adapt the oil lines to the existing oil sump. I thought the existing cooler remained the same. Do I need to remove the cooler and adapt the the lines also?

Jeff

[Lou W]

Ok, I'll be the first to say;

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)

[ClayPerrine]

Another solution to the clutch is to use a 70-71 pull type clutch. It will work with the stock 3.0 flywheel, and the 70-71 911 clutch disk. But you have to find the correct throwout arm and pivot bolt, and redrill your bell housing pivot mount. It moves 14mm outboard. You also get rid of the pulley on the side of the transmission that way too. You use a 75 911 clutch cable to run everything. This also removes all the load on the clutch tube in the chassis, so you never have to worry about it breaking again.

The oil cooler will have to be altered. If you leave it stock, the line will hit the Left trailing arm. There are 2 ways. 1. You have the tube cut, and you have a 90 degree fitting tig welded onto the tube. 2. You remove the tube completely, and put an AN fitting on the flange.

Either way, you have to pull the cooler.

[Jeffs9146]

The oil cooler will have to be altered. If you leave it stock, the line will hit the Left trailing arm. There are 2 ways. 1. You have the tube cut, and you have a 90 degree fitting tig welded onto the tube. 2. You remove the tube completely, and put an AN fitting on the flange.

Either way, you have to pull the cooler.

Thats the kind of stuff I need to know! Thanks

Keep it comming!

YES (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpics.gif)

I would love to see some photos

Jeff

[brp914]

one way is like so...

[Jeffs9146]

Can I use the 2.0L oil cooler and avoid the cutting and welding?

Jeff

[brp914]

I wondered about that too, but I don't know.

[ClayPerrine]

Can I use the 2.0L oil cooler and avoid the cutting and welding?

Jeff

No.. the 2.0L 911 cooler comes straight out the end, and will hit the trailing arm.

You need to alter it, and it is smaller than the 3.0 cooler that is on your engine.

[Jeffs9146]

I have a 2.0 914-6 cooler. That will work wont it?

Jeff

[echocanyons]

Yep the 2.0 cooler is smaller and may not provide enough cooling for the 3.0.

Dave at GPR cuts the end of the line off the 911 types and uses rubber lines (at least he said he did with his 3.2). The other and more like stock route is to have it welded with a 90degree angle.

If you have the accumulator you may as well use it, If you were worried about wieght or a place to mount it you could bypass. If you bypass it you and you ran into hot start issues you could always just add it in.

I think the tin is the same up with all except the 3.6.

I assume you have a stock six, your mount should work fine with the 3.0.

You should take pictures as you go along and post them here.

[Jeffs9146]

I was planning on photographing every step. I am still looking for another engine stand and I have to build a rotisserie before I get started.

Dave at GPR cuts the end of the line off the 911 types

Does Dave do this for others? How much? How do I contact him?

Jeff

[echocanyons]

http://www.gprparts.com/ is his web site.

It is best to call and ask for Dave.

If I recall the SC's have the line from the oil cooler fitted by a rubber hose and clamp so no big difference. I think the biggest reason why people dont do this is because the 90degree fitting lets you use the stock line with the fittings on either end

You may not even have to cut if you can get the hose to bend without kinking or rubbing.

Not sure about the fitting on the other end at the tank though.

[echocanyons]

here is a picture of the 911 setup, you can see the hose and clamps on both ends.

(picture from pelican parts )

[echocanyons]

(IMG:http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/imgdsply.cgi?url=../../images/oil_circ/S-hose.JPG)here is a stock 911 picture with te clamps at both ends.

[iamchappy]

Clewett does the oil cooler mod. for 145.00
http://www.clewett.com/

[Jeffs9146]

Clewett does the oil cooler mod. for 145.00
http://www.clewett.com/

Thanks, that seems reasonable!

Jeff