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> Mallory dizzy installation for dummies, Wires go... where? Got pics?
Gint
post Mar 15 2007, 11:43 AM
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I know Aaron has mentioned some details of this in the past but I don't remember it being crystal clear. Anywho...

I need to get this Mallory dizzy installed in my 2056, single carb (soon to be dual'd), 96mm PC and 2.0 crank/rods on 1.8 case/heads 914.

I'm not entirely certain where the wires should hook up and I'm kind of a houseplant when it comes to wiring. I don't want to fry a $300 dizzy. Can anyone be crystal clear on installation? Wires on the Mallory are green, brown and red.

Also, I recall reading that the tin needs to be clearanced a wee bit to accomodate the Mallory's housing that is larger than a stock dizzy. Where exactly? Anyone have pics?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) TIA!
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Joe Ricard
post Mar 15 2007, 11:57 AM
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Do you have the manual for the Mallory?
do a search online you can find the PDF version for your specific model.

As I remember (just from my memory) red 12V switched, Green to tach and trigger to CD ignition. brown is ground anywhere on the case will do.

2lb ball peen hammer to ding the sheet metal of the cylinder cooling tin just at the inside radious curve where the distibutor will interfere.

Oh yea remember to get the engine to TDC #1 before pulling out other dizzy.
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Jake Raby
post Mar 15 2007, 01:17 PM
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Red= coil 12V Pos (from keyed power)
Green= Coil negative
Brown = engine ground
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Aaron Cox
post Mar 15 2007, 01:18 PM
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QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Mar 15 2007, 12:17 PM) *

Red= coil 12V Pos (from keyed power)
Green= Coil negative
Brown = engine ground


red can go to coil + (it is the switched hot to the coil (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) )

things only get complicated when you add a CDI box...

enjoy
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Elliot Cannon
post Mar 15 2007, 02:18 PM
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QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Mar 15 2007, 11:17 AM) *

Red= coil 12V Pos (from keyed power)
Green= Coil negative
Brown = engine ground

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I intalled mine in about 15 minutes. If I can do and Aaron can do it...
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Aaron Cox
post Mar 15 2007, 04:43 PM
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QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Mar 15 2007, 01:18 PM) *

QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Mar 15 2007, 11:17 AM) *

Red= coil 12V Pos (from keyed power)
Green= Coil negative
Brown = engine ground

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I intalled mine in about 15 minutes. If I can do and Aaron can do it...


then we are studs??? we rock (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wavey.gif)
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Twystd1
post Mar 15 2007, 05:19 PM
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I think he meant lucky...

Not a stud.... Like in 2X4...

C
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jhadler
post Mar 15 2007, 06:16 PM
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Quick question. I know I should already know this, but can you get a Mallory that'll work with the D-Jet FI??

-Josh2
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Gint
post Mar 15 2007, 06:21 PM
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Thanks all.

I don't anticipate much trouble, but like I said, I didn't want to fry it. Better safe than sorry.

Any pics of clearanced tin?


QUOTE(jhadler @ Mar 15 2007, 05:16 PM) *

Quick question. I know I should already know this, but can you get a Mallory that'll work with the D-Jet FI??

-Josh2
No. There are a couple of guys working on a home brew set of (optical I think) trigger points. Mueller was looking into it, I heard he dropped it, I think Fiid? has talked about digging into it.
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Aaron Cox
post Mar 15 2007, 06:57 PM
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QUOTE(jhadler @ Mar 15 2007, 05:16 PM) *

Quick question. I know I should already know this, but can you get a Mallory that'll work with the D-Jet FI??

-Josh2



QUOTE(Gint @ Mar 15 2007, 05:21 PM) *

Thanks all.

I don't anticipate much trouble, but like I said, I didn't want to fry it. Better safe than sorry.

Any pics of clearanced tin?


QUOTE(jhadler @ Mar 15 2007, 05:16 PM) *

Quick question. I know I should already know this, but can you get a Mallory that'll work with the D-Jet FI??

-Josh2
No. There are a couple of guys working on a home brew set of (optical I think) trigger points. Mueller was looking into it, I heard he dropped it, I think Fiid? has talked about digging into it.


yep... still gott have trigger points. I think mueller was using a hall effect sensor for his design
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Gint
post Mar 17 2007, 07:06 PM
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It's in. Man am I glad to be rid of that 009!
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Aaron Cox
post Mar 17 2007, 08:22 PM
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feel the difference?

what initial advance setting are you running?
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Gint
post Mar 18 2007, 09:57 AM
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QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Mar 17 2007, 07:22 PM) *
feel the difference?

Yes. It's not huge, but noticeable for sure. Driveability throughout the rpm range has definitely improved.

QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Mar 17 2007, 07:22 PM) *
what initial advance setting are you running?

There we're in a bit of a gray area.

I haven't touched this car since I bought it back in Feb 2006. I did that initial valve adjustment at Joe's (IMG:style_emoticons/default/jsharp.gif) and I realized then that the dizzy drive gear is 180 out, the fan only has a TDC mark. At the time I verified that the TDC was TDC, and did the valve adjustment. The car ran great, so awway I went and drove it home. All I've done since then is check the valve adjustment once (didn't have to change a single one), and change the oil once or twice. It's been starting to show signs of worn points, but I haven't messed with it since I've had this Mallory I bought from Jake laying around for the last six months or more. I never bothered putting it in because the car has always just ran and ran and ran.

So... not sure. I kept backing out advance yesterday until it ran decent and I silenced all of the pinging. I obviously still need to turn that drive gear around and get this fan marked.
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Jake Raby
post Mar 18 2007, 10:10 AM
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We recurve all dizzys before they are shipped out to the default TIV settings that I have found to work the best all around... You should have roughly a 12 degree initial advance to net a 28 degree full advance.. You should have either a pair of grey springs or an orange and grey spring.. We have two ways of setting up these dizzys and when the grey springs are not available we use orange springs and change the perch positions to net roughly the same advance rate.
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