Side-shift linkage kit, Another great shift improvement product |
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Side-shift linkage kit, Another great shift improvement product |
JWest |
May 19 2008, 12:33 PM
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#21
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,662 Joined: 6-January 03 From: Fort Worth, TX Member No.: 97 Region Association: None |
When can we order? I have all the parts but I want to assemble a few sets. I also have not worked up pricing for the other combinations. As soon as I have the pricing set I will update the web page to receive orders - later this week, I hope. I'll update this thread as soon as ordering is live again. |
JWest |
May 27 2008, 04:22 PM
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#22
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,662 Joined: 6-January 03 From: Fort Worth, TX Member No.: 97 Region Association: None |
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914werke |
May 28 2008, 09:26 PM
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#23
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,081 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
Now for the questions: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Being the CSOB I am looking at level 1 kit - A is a OE part Ill have B is a part of the OE rod Ill cut off my existing shift rod 1 is a NEW JW only part 2 (same) 3 (same) 4 (same) 5 is a OE ball cup bushing? 6 is the OE shift coupler cover I would have? 7 is the OE console cover I would have and modify 8 is one of two OE shift rod shrouds I have and or can buy from you or ? 9 is one of two OE U joings I should have 10 Is wher Im unclear! These are (OE?) knurled rod ends that need to be welded in place of existing OE set pin ends on the (bent) R. (intermediate) shift rod ©? I though the point ot the kit was to eliminate the spaghetti bender rod and replace with a straight rod connected by U joints? R. |
JWest |
May 28 2008, 09:52 PM
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#24
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,662 Joined: 6-January 03 From: Fort Worth, TX Member No.: 97 Region Association: None |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Now for the questions: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) A is a OE part Ill have - -yes B is a part of the OE rod Ill cut off my existing shift rod -yes 1 is a NEW JW only part -yes 2 (same) 3 (same) 4 (same) 5 is a OE ball cup bushing? -yes 6 is the OE shift coupler cover I would have? -No - this is a JW part 7 is the OE console cover I would have and modify -yes 8 is one of two OE shift rod shrouds I have and or can buy from you or ? -yes 9 is one of two OE U joings I should have -yes, from 914 steering 10 Is wher Im unclear! These are (OE?) knurled rod ends that need to be welded in place of existing OE set pin ends on the (bent) R. (intermediate) shift rod ©? sort of - you could cut equevalent parts to these from a 914 steering shaft. These get welded to a short center section of the bent factory shift tube. I though the point ot the kit was to eliminate the spaghetti bender rod and replace with a straight rod connected by U joints? Not exactly. You still have to get around the engine (on a 4 cyl). Half of the bends are removed and the remaining tube has very little flex. |
914werke |
May 29 2008, 02:09 AM
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#25
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,081 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE 9 is one of two OE U joings I should have -yes, from 914 steering 10 Is wher Im unclear! These are (OE?) knurled rod ends that need to be welded in place of existing OE set pin ends on the (bent) R. (intermediate) shift rod ©? sort of - you could cut equevalent parts to these from a 914 steering shaft. These get welded to a short center section of the bent factory shift tube. I though the point ot the kit was to eliminate the spaghetti bender rod and replace with a straight rod connected by U joints? Not exactly. You still have to get around the engine (on a 4 cyl). Half of the bends are removed and the remaining tube has very little flex. So are the dimensions for this available? I looked at the installation instructons but didnt see a cut dimension for the "stub shafts" |
JWest |
May 29 2008, 06:45 AM
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#26
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,662 Joined: 6-January 03 From: Fort Worth, TX Member No.: 97 Region Association: None |
So are the dimensions for this available? I looked at the installation instructons but didnt see a cut dimension for the "stub shafts" It wont really matter - they slip inside the tube and are fitted to the car to get everything "just right." About 2 to 3 inches long would be fine. |
70Sixter |
May 31 2008, 03:03 PM
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#27
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Member Group: Members Posts: 422 Joined: 3-August 04 From: Surf City, NC Member No.: 2,444 Region Association: South East States |
I though the point ot the kit was to eliminate the spaghetti bender rod and replace with a straight rod connected by U joints? Not exactly. You still have to get around the engine (on a 4 cyl). Half of the bends are removed and the remaining tube has very little flex. Does that mean the kit works as is on a stock -6? Or is there a straighter version? |
JWest |
Jun 1 2008, 09:15 AM
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#28
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,662 Joined: 6-January 03 From: Fort Worth, TX Member No.: 97 Region Association: None |
Does that mean the kit works as is on a stock -6? Or is there a straighter version? The kit does not work on a stock six, since the kit is for a side-shift transmission. The kit does not include the rod that goes past the engine, so it will not work as-is on any car. If a -6 has been converted to a side shifter, then a straight piece of tube needs to be used between the u-joints to create the intermediate shift rod. |
914werke |
Jun 7 2008, 12:13 AM
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#29
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,081 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
James reading the instructions to re-use the stock shift rod it specifys
cutting both ends off by measuring up from the trans end at 10" and 32 3/4" so... since the rod bends in two directions is that measurement "straight from the end" or trying to follow the bends of the rod? Make sense? |
JWest |
Jun 7 2008, 07:42 AM
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#30
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,662 Joined: 6-January 03 From: Fort Worth, TX Member No.: 97 Region Association: None |
James reading the instructions to re-use the stock shift rod is specifys cutting both ends off by measuring up from the trans end at 10" and 32 3/4" so... since the rod bends in two directions is that measurement "straight from the end" or trying to follow the bends of the rod? Make sense? Straight - "as the crow flys." |
914werke |
Jan 16 2009, 06:54 PM
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#31
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,081 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
These are (OE?) knurled rod ends that need to be welded in place of existing OE set pin ends on the (bent) R. (intermediate) shift rod ©? sort of - you could cut equivalent parts to these from a 914 steering shaft. These get welded to a short center section of the bent factory shift tube. One more question, when you cut off both ends of the OE bent shift rod you lose the taper that reduces the tube down to the dimension of the knurled rod? How do you suggest to correct for this prior to welding. Speaking of welding.. the Factory drilled and filled 4 rosettes about an 1" from the end of the tube, is that necessary or are simple spots or a bead ran around the tube end all that is required? |
JWest |
Mar 9 2009, 08:02 AM
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#32
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,662 Joined: 6-January 03 From: Fort Worth, TX Member No.: 97 Region Association: None |
One more question, when you cut off both ends of the OE bent shift rod you lose the taper that reduces the tube down to the dimension of the knurled rod? How do you suggest to correct for this prior to welding. Speaking of welding.. the Factory drilled and filled 4 rosettes about an 1" from the end of the tube, is that necessary or are simple spots or a bead ran around the tube end all that is required? The extra diameter allows for some play in lining up the two ends. Tack the spots that touch while it is fitted, then remove and weld a bead. Pie cut and tap the tube flush if it bothers you to fill the gap. This is much stronger than the factory spot welds. |
JWest |
Nov 10 2009, 06:38 AM
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#33
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,662 Joined: 6-January 03 From: Fort Worth, TX Member No.: 97 Region Association: None |
I've got new lower prices on the linkage kits, along with package deals when a RennShift and linkage are purchased together.
www.jwesteng.com |
nsr-jamie |
Nov 11 2009, 06:08 AM
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#34
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914 guy in Japan Group: Members Posts: 1,182 Joined: 7-November 07 From: Nagoya, Japan Member No.: 8,305 Region Association: None |
Someday when I have more money and take care of some other things on my car I would like to buy one of your Rennshifters and the linkage kit as shifting my car has not always been its best. I hope you will keep the new package deals going for a very long time as it might be a while before I am ready but most definetely want one.
I am curious how other 914 drivers feel after making the conversion to either the Renn shifter or both the shifter with the linkage? Does it compare to a new modern car? |
Phil Plummer |
Feb 1 2012, 11:48 PM
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#35
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Member Group: Members Posts: 120 Joined: 7-January 12 From: Edmonton Ab Canada Member No.: 13,973 Region Association: Canada |
Hi I have a 71 and I drove the car home and started to do the 914/6 conversion and am wondering ifMy 71 has the lower quality shift linkage? and if so how much to get the one that shifts better?
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Phil Plummer |
Mar 14 2012, 09:19 PM
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#36
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Member Group: Members Posts: 120 Joined: 7-January 12 From: Edmonton Ab Canada Member No.: 13,973 Region Association: Canada |
Someday when I have more money and take care of some other things on my car I would like to buy one of your Rennshifters and the linkage kit as shifting my car has not always been its best. I hope you will keep the new package deals going for a very long time as it might be a while before I am ready but most definetely want one. I am curious how other 914 drivers feel after making the conversion to either the Renn shifter or both the shifter with the linkage? Does it compare to a new modern car? Very Cool site. I am doing a 916 look alike at ( minus the Engine compartment double grill and fuchs -going phone dial) You hav a nice looking car . Did you make for the group buy for steel fender flares @750.00 ?? Also very nice rare model!! -regards Phil |
lonewolfe |
Mar 21 2012, 09:22 PM
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#37
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 819 Joined: 12-September 11 From: Oakland, CA Member No.: 13,549 Region Association: Northern California |
Hey Phil, It's Mark, again. We've been talking about the custom emblems vendor. Anyhow, if your car has the stock transmission, you'll have the tailshift setup. I would say it's lower quality but the later sideshift transmission is the preferred unit. They started using the later sideshift transmissions in 1973. I have a 1972 I recently bought and am in the process of converting it. You need to replace the transmission, engine bar, shifter linkage bars and the shifter from inside the car. You're probably looking at close to $1000 to make the upgrade. I believe you can make the tailshifters work ok if you replace all the busings from front to back. I'm doing the conversion because I have a 1975 parts car to get all these parts from. Otherwise, I'm not sure it would be worth it. Well, if you are doing a 914/4 to 914/6 conversion then I'm pretty sure you will want the better shifter setup. Anyhow, just wanted to add my 2 cents. Good luck with your conversion. Hi I have a 71 and I drove the car home and started to do the 914/6 conversion and am wondering ifMy 71 has the lower quality shift linkage? and if so how much to get the one that shifts better? |
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