 Head temp sensor, Installing |
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| whitey |
 May 27 2007, 11:53 PM
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#1
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Member  Group: Members Posts: 146 Joined: 8-February 07 From: Coto de Caza Member No.: 7,508  |
I need to install a new head temp sensor II. It seems that you can't remove the rubber bushing in the engine tin. Is there a way to remove it or do you just have to force it out like the other bushings? Do I need to remove the top tin to expose the sensor to replace it?
Thanks, Dave |
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| toon1 |
May 28 2007, 01:24 AM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,849 Joined: 29-October 05 From: tracy,ca Member No.: 5,022 |
yes, force the boot out.
NO you do not have to remove the tin. You will nee to get a special tool to remove the CHTS. It's a 13mm deep socket with a slot cut into it for the wire |
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| Bleyseng |
May 28 2007, 10:19 AM
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#3
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Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,034 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
or grind off one corner of a 3/8th extension so the wire can fit out of the deep socket.
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| 2-OH! |
May 28 2007, 10:25 AM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 552 Joined: 17-October 03 From: Santa Clarita, Kalifornication Member No.: 1,253 |
Come back to us if the car runs like crap after you replace it...
I have a 73, 1.7 and by the book, I should not need the resistor between the sensor and the ECU...But, by actual experience, my car would not run until it reaches 180 degrees... Solved the problem by putting a resistor in between the the new sensor and the brain... Yes, it was the correct part number for the 1.7... 2-OH! |
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| r_towle |
May 28 2007, 11:05 AM
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#5
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States 
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QUOTE(2-OH! @ May 28 2007, 12:25 PM)  Come back to us if the car runs like crap after you replace it... I have a 73, 1.7 and by the book, I should not need the resistor between the sensor and the ECU...But, by actual experience, my car would not run until it reaches 180 degrees... Solved the problem by putting a resistor in between the the new sensor and the brain... Yes, it was the correct part number for the 1.7... 2-OH! Can you share the ugly details... I think that there may only be one CHT out there for sale now, and it would be nice to know what the numbers are that work and the ones that dont. So, ECU number, MPS number and CHT number of you have them would be great. Rich |
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| Bleyseng |
May 28 2007, 12:34 PM
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#6
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Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,034 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE(2-OH! @ May 28 2007, 09:25 AM) Come back to us if the car runs like crap after you replace it... I have a 73, 1.7 and by the book, I should not need the resistor between the sensor and the ECU...But, by actual experience, my car would not run until it reaches 180 degrees... Solved the problem by putting a resistor in between the the new sensor and the brain... Yes, it was the correct part number for the 1.7... 2-OH! that just means you are running lean at cold idle....which can the fault of several things. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif) |
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| ptravnic |
May 28 2007, 01:04 PM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,231 Joined: 27-May 03 From: Chicago, IL Member No.: 747 Region Association: None
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I've heard many suggestions pertaining to the removal of the CHT - the most popular being cutting a perfectly good deep well 13mm socket. While this does indeed work, I've successfully used another method many times over:
Run the wire through the 13mm deep well socket so that the socket slides down the wire to the CHT base. Now the wire prevents you from inserting your extension/socket wrench into the sockets square hole. Take a pair of needle nose vise grips and get a tight grip with one of the vise grips prongs the inside of one of the square sides and the other prong on the outside of the socket. Then twist. Unless the CHT is really rotted into the head this method will work - and even if it is rotted in there very tight a lil liquid wrenchish type solvent and you should be able to break it free. I suppose anyway that'll work best for you is the way to go - just saying what has worked for me. |
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| NoEcm |
May 28 2007, 01:48 PM
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#8
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Member Group: Members Posts: 95 Joined: 20-June 05 From: Seattle, WA Member No.: 4,309 |
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| 2-OH! |
May 29 2007, 04:16 PM
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#9
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 552 Joined: 17-October 03 From: Santa Clarita, Kalifornication Member No.: 1,253 |
Rich:
I recommend going to Brad Anders site (http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders) and of course he is a member here under the screen name pbanders... He has a very comprehensive part number match-up... I agree with the idea that only one sensor is now available...I ordered the sensor from Pelican based on their catalog listing of the part number match with my year model car (73 1.7 which is stock, as from the factory): "311-906-041-A-M14 Cylinder Head Temp Sensor, 914, All Except 1973 2.0 (1970-76), Each" ... They also show one for the 73 2.0 but I wonder if they aren't all mixed up in the bin or they grabbed the wrong one , or ...I dunno...Using an OHM meter, the new one registers 3.16 ohms (cold and on the work bench)...I believe it should be about 1.70 to 2.70 ohms...But then why add more resistance...I dunno...I'm just not smart enough to know... But, we added a rotary switch with 6, 12, 18, 24 ohm resistors in a series...Cold mornings (50 degress), I use 12 for about 5 minutes then swich to just 6 and she runs like a champ...Never had one run better...So, I just leave it on 6...No fumes, sputtering, backfiring, stammering, no black soot, good idle...All is well... 2-OH! |
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