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> Pulled the tank Vol V, Total Rust Bucket
BahnBrenner914
post Jul 4 2007, 11:18 AM
Post #41


The girl is gone and all I have now is a beat-up teener
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So the bare metal on the inside wont rust when I have it back in? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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rhodyguy
post Jul 4 2007, 11:59 AM
Post #42


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figure that's prob 30+years of neglect resting in the bottom of the tank. the build up takes time. the 'filter/sock' can be cleaned. reverse rinse with hot water, soak in some pbblaster, rinse again, repeat as ness. check the fuel outlet tube as the crap builds up in there too. both of these strainers were near plugged solid and sucked flat. look for the longer version if you can find one.

k


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SirAndy
post Jul 4 2007, 01:23 PM
Post #43


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i coated my tank. after the acid cleaning routine ...
the stuff that i used for the coating was really thick. i *seems* to work OK, but i wouldn't do it again.

i would just clean it with the acid, wash it out, rinse with metal-ready/ospho and be done with it ...

no need for any extra coating.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) Andy
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McMark
post Jul 4 2007, 01:27 PM
Post #44


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Watch out for reusing the sock. The flash aluminum washer/base is a sealing point. Use some fuel safe, non-drying sealant there or you will have a slow leak that will stink up the car as well as being mildly unsafe.
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por73914
post Jul 4 2007, 02:18 PM
Post #45


I don't know what the hell I am doing...
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QUOTE(Danny_Ocean @ Jul 4 2007, 12:12 AM) *

QUOTE(BahnBrenner914 @ Jul 3 2007, 10:05 PM) *

Well I bought the muriatic acid...



Muriatic acid will burn you to the bone. It will blind you if even one drop gets in your eye(s). When you pour it on concrete (to remove oil stains), it causes the concrete to smoke.

I would seriously reconsider playing with this stuff.

And, if it does burn you, will you please post pics as a warning to others?

Regards,

D. Ocean


I once left a gallon of muriatic in a one car garage with the lid off for a couple of days. I had a Mercedes 450SL parked in there with it and the fumes totally destroyed all of the chrome on the car...bad stuff
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rhodyguy
post Jul 4 2007, 02:29 PM
Post #46


Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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think of what the fumes do to lung tissue if they'll eat a chrome finish. hyrochloric/muratic acid isn't a rookie product. you have to have the proper protective gear. if i did a tank at home i would further rinse the tank with a box of baking soda disolved in water mix to neutralize the acid. where do you guys pour the acid wash when you do this at home?

k
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BahnBrenner914
post Jul 4 2007, 02:34 PM
Post #47


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Well I just got done with another acid bath (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) (higher concentration) and left it in there for an hour or so, it's really cleaned up. I think in the next couple days (when I have time) I'll put in a similiarly high-concentration and fill the whole tank (not just the crap part) and let it sit for 2 or 3 hours (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yawn.gif) , making sure to slosh it around once in a while (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif) to keep the burning going. I figure after that I'll have a spotless tank. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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por73914
post Jul 4 2007, 02:38 PM
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QUOTE(BahnBrenner914 @ Jul 4 2007, 03:34 PM) *

Well I just got done with another acid bath (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) (higher concentration) and left it in there for an hour or so, it's really cleaned up. I think in the next couple days (when I have time) I'll put in a similiarly high-concentration and fill the whole tank (not just the crap part) and let it sit for 2 or 3 hours (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yawn.gif) , making sure to slosh it around once in a while (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif) to keep the burning going. I figure after that I'll have a spotless tank. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)


What do you do with the acid after you are done with it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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BahnBrenner914
post Jul 4 2007, 02:46 PM
Post #49


The girl is gone and all I have now is a beat-up teener
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I would tell you, but the Green Party will send swat after me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)
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rhodyguy
post Jul 4 2007, 03:20 PM
Post #50


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that would eventually be chambers creek, titlow beach, or day island. good work. please don't continue what ever it is you're doing, unless it is something related to the recycle center at the tacoma dump. did you grow up in the greater puget sound area?

k
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jk76.914
post Jul 4 2007, 03:26 PM
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I did the POR-15 route. Here's the before and after- (I've posted this before) I wasn't dealing with as much as you are. The POR treatment took care of the surface rust before the final sealing.
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Danny_Ocean
post Jul 4 2007, 04:02 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Jul 4 2007, 03:27 PM) *

Watch out for reusing the sock. The flash aluminum washer/base is a sealing point. Use some fuel safe, non-drying sealant there or you will have a slow leak that will stink up the car as well as being mildly unsafe.



Can you provide more detail? Are you saying the base of the sock seals the inlet tube to the tank? What does/did the factory use to seal this?

(Sorry for the hijack, but I'm about to embark on the same project.
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ammason
post Jul 4 2007, 04:11 PM
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QUOTE(jk76.914 @ Jul 4 2007, 01:26 PM) *

I did the POR-15 route. Here's the before and after- (I've posted this before) I wasn't dealing with as much as you are. The POR treatment took care of the surface rust before the final sealing.


I have to say that I'm a HUGE fan of the POR-15 system. My only advice is that you use nits/bits of iron or something ferromagnetic when you shake it around (or did you already do this? I might have missed it). The only reason is that when I treated an old tank I skipped over that part and used rocks and couldn't get them out after the thing had been cleaned.

The good part is that the sealant is strong and thick and it just made the rocks a permanent part of the inside of the gas tank.

I patched several holes that were more than 1/2" in diameter with JB-Weld after treating the inside of a tank, coated the inside, and then drove 5000 miles, before hitting a big rock (this was in the Caddy and the tank was exposed under the trunk of the car) and knocking another hole.

That stuff works fantastically - and if you're worried about bare metal, just make sure you use their whole system, including the finish coat - it's like rustoleum and will keep the rust from coming back...
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McMark
post Jul 5 2007, 02:01 AM
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QUOTE(Danny_Ocean @ Jul 4 2007, 03:02 PM) *

QUOTE(McMark @ Jul 4 2007, 03:27 PM) *

Watch out for reusing the sock. The flash aluminum washer/base is a sealing point. Use some fuel safe, non-drying sealant there or you will have a slow leak that will stink up the car as well as being mildly unsafe.



Can you provide more detail? Are you saying the base of the sock seals the inlet tube to the tank? What does/did the factory use to seal this?

(Sorry for the hijack, but I'm about to embark on the same project.


You've got it. Basically the base of the sock is a crush washer (single use). It deforms when you install it. So the factory didn't have to use sealant, and you don't either if you use a new one.
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Phoenix914
post Jul 5 2007, 07:46 AM
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Those strainer socks are readily available from the usual 914 parts suppliers. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)
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Bogaat
post Jul 5 2007, 10:58 AM
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QUOTE(Phoenix914 @ Jul 5 2007, 09:46 AM) *

Those strainer socks are readily available from the usual 914 parts suppliers. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)


Now if I could only get my hand in the tank!
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McMark
post Jul 5 2007, 11:01 AM
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It is installed from the outside. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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Bogaat
post Jul 5 2007, 11:05 AM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Jul 5 2007, 01:01 PM) *

It is installed from the outside. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


Hmmm, good thing I didn't force my hand in there to pull it off! Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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rhodyguy
post Jul 5 2007, 11:06 AM
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take off the capturing nut on the supply tube and the tube will pull out. the stainer will either come with it or you'll have to persuade it out. do not ruin the fiber gasket either.

k
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jk76.914
post Jul 5 2007, 07:35 PM
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QUOTE(jk76.914 @ Jul 4 2007, 05:26 PM) *

I did the POR-15 route. Here's the before and after- (I've posted this before) I wasn't dealing with as much as you are. The POR treatment took care of the surface rust before the final sealing.
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Those are my pics. You're all welcome to them.

A couple of lessons learned by me-
regarding the flash rust (great term)- When I completed step 2, I rinsed it by putting a hose in one of the big holes on top. I let it spray with both tubes off at the bottom. The combination of running water and air flashed stripes of rust going down the inside of the tank, and I had to do step 2 all over again. The next time, I kept the bottom holes plugged, and rinsed by filling the tank full, then draining it quickly. I did it 3 times to flush it, and no rust. I'm guessing the lack of air slowed down the rust action.

after step 2, I put the vacuum hose from my shop vac into the filler hole on top, and put the end down to the deepest section of the tank. While it was sucking, I blew into the fuel level sender hole with my heat gun on medium. It worked great. I could feel the bottom of the tank heat up, and I could see the wetness disappearing when I peeked in around the heat gun with a flash light.

When I removed the tubes on the bottom and the sock, I munged up the thread on one of the nipples. It was a pain with magnifying glasses and jewelers files to clean it up, so be careful. Also, I learned that the nut is aluminum- very soft and easily damaged. I got new ones from Stoddard- they had to backorder from Germany but they came in about a week for only maybe $3 or so each.

This one will be controversial- To seal the tubes and the sock, I installed them while the POR-15 sealant was still wet. It's now TOTALLY permanent, but I didn't want to fool around with leaks, and, after 98000 miles and 30 years, my sock was still OK (replaced it anyway), so what the heck.

Good luck!
Jim
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