Grounding points in a 914, I count 4, there is more right? Options

[GaroldShaffer]

Long story B inlaws 914 won't start again. Everything was fine since the last no start problem (bad fuel Pump relay & battery) Car ran great for a month. Even sat a week while they were on vacation. Day before our last AX he went to the gas station then cousins house. Left the car running, say 45min to 1 hour, then went home. Went to start the car about 5 minutes later, nothing. You can here the fuel pump run, but no click, nothing. Next morning same thing, but was able to jump start it and make it to the AX where it again, it wouldn't start (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

We tried jump starting, nope, but was able after a few hours (4) to push start it and he drove it home. Now you can here the starter click, fuel pump run, but that is it. At first I thought the typical hot start problem, but it does have some sort of hot start kit on it (I know fix the real issue).

We are going over tomorrow and I feel we need to check ALL the grounds and make sure they are making good connections. So I know there are two grounding points by the headlights, one for the neg side battery cable, and trans to rear trunk floor. What am I missing? My plan is to check/clean all grounds, charge the battery and go from there.

[swl]

As far as I know you've hit all the ground points involved in starting the car. What year is it? Post 73 there is that seatbelt interlock on the starter cct that would cause the no click but can jump start thing.

But if you now have 'click' 'no start' I would guess that either your battery is down (bad regulator?) or you have a starter problem.

[GaroldShaffer]

Its a 72. When running the voltage shows 13 volts so I would assume the regulator is working fine. Maybe the starter selinoide (sp?) is bad. I have a extra one here I will bring along.

[swl]

Is that measurement from your guage or from a multimeter? The guage might not be very accurate. Measure with a multi meter at the battery. 13 is a little low I think. When I did an investigation for a problem on my smart car I think the answer was around 14-14.5 Really what you are looking for is a jump of at least 1.5 volts between the normal voltage and the running voltage- that is what is pushing energy back into the battery.

Did you try the 'screwdriver' trick? That would help determine if it was solenoid or electrical.

[JeffBowlsby]

Garold, there are also major ground lugs under the relay board and fuse panel. Brad Anders mentioned recently that there is supposed to be a ground cable at the alternator housing (check the parts diagrams). The license plate light housings are grounded through their mounting screws too.

[VaccaRabite]

I know with some modern cars, it is beneficial to add grounding points. Is it the same with 914s?

Zach

[GWN7]

I know with some modern cars, it is beneficial to add grounding points. Is it the same with 914s?

Zach

Yes,

I'd run one directly to the engine. With 914's they use the body to carry the negative current to and from the battery. Chevy on the other hand runs the neg to the engine block.

[swl]

That's an intriguing thought Bruce. You still need the body as a ground return but if you wired from the negative post to the tranny ground point and from there back to the body your really important ground paths would be much more direct.

[Doug Leggins]

I experienced a issue with a poor alternator ground. I diagnosed the issue by making a ground wire using alligator clips for the ends, clipped one end on the alternator body and the other on the engine case. This proved to be my grounding issue. ( I powder coated the parts that created the alternator ground path.) I would think that corrosion could eventually hinder the alternator ground path. I made and attached a permanent wire to ground my alternator to the engine case - no more issue (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[John]

Please also check your POSITIVE battery post and clamp for tightness and cleanliness.