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> Well here's a fine mess Ollie, An Update on repairs
DNHunt
post Oct 31 2007, 05:37 PM
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914 Wizard? No way. I got too much to learn.
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This wasn't quite what I expected. I really thought I would find much more rust. The door gap was closed and it was sagging some. But it really isn't much more than dirt and a little surface rust which I think I can convert. The problem is I have to reverse engineer it I can scab plates behind the inner layerI think I'll add some cross bracing between the ridges on the inner layer. Looks like a couple months of work .

Dave


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freezing14
post Oct 31 2007, 06:29 PM
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thats a piece of cake to fix 2 week end and your done,, you dont even need to repaint the car , it looks scary at first but you you commit to starting it , it goes fast ,, YOU CAN DO IT
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DNHunt
post Oct 31 2007, 07:16 PM
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I know I can do it. The issue is I tend to dink with stuff. Also, time off to ponder. Then, there are the lost (mislaid) tools. Gotta watch a little football, time for family and oh ya, I have to work some.

It'll get done in it's own time.

Dave
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rhodyguy
post Oct 31 2007, 07:16 PM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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shall i call betsy and tell her you want an engman kit for christmas?

k
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Gint
post Oct 31 2007, 07:29 PM
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QUOTE(DNHunt @ Oct 31 2007, 06:16 PM) *

I know I can do it. The issue is I tend to dink with stuff. Also, time off to ponder. Then, there are the lost (mislaid) tools. Gotta watch a little football, time for family and oh ya, I have to work some.

It'll get done in it's own time.

Dave
I work the same way Dave. For the same reasons. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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John
post Oct 31 2007, 09:52 PM
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Send it to Jake's place and have him discipline (motivate) you into getting it done in short order. You did it with your engine....

Some words of advice.

Jack the door gap slightly larger than you want and weld it back together with as little heat in the longs as possible (and check the door gap many times along the way).

You will reach a point where you won't easily be able to move the door gap and at that point you will want it to be right. (don't ask me how I know)

The BEST method would be to put the car on a jig, but most of us don't have access, so take careful measurements and get it as close as you can.

Good luck with it and don't get in a rush. You can do it.
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dinomium
post Oct 31 2007, 09:59 PM
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Git on a chair son, all the good stuff is goin over yer head!
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It will be autocross season in 4 months! ESPN has football highlights at 11!
LOL
You will probably still beat me back to the road!
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DNHunt
post Nov 1 2007, 08:02 AM
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Engman's kit is already here.

The only dimension I'm not sure of is the distance between the inner suspension consoles. I think mine was a little narrow mainly but I'd like to confirm that. My guess is the car was bending up and rotating a bit so that the inner suspension ear was up and toward the midline. That could account for the loss of negative camber.

I plan on monitoring the door gap, trunk gap and distance between the suspension ears as I go. I just need a starting point.

Dave
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DNHunt
post Nov 7 2007, 05:54 PM
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Time for an update

Rust was neutralized with Metal Ready and Coated with Por 15. I added a little stiffening including a T shaped reinforement. The inner part of the long is welded. Attached Image


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flesburg
post Nov 7 2007, 07:45 PM
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On a car we are working on, we filled the hole where the heater tube entered the long, and then plated (reinforced) from where (Engmans) inner long reinforcement ends, all the way up to the shock mount. You have noticed by now that the heater tube hole lines up right with the jack point and creates a very weak "hinge".

Probably the one design flaw in the 914 tub. The heater tube should have entered somewhere else.
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DNHunt
post Nov 8 2007, 09:27 AM
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QUOTE(flesburg @ Nov 7 2007, 06:45 PM) *

On a car we are working on, we filled the hole where the heater tube entered the long, and then plated (reinforced) from where (Engmans) inner long reinforcement ends, all the way up to the shock mount. You have noticed by now that the heater tube hole lines up right with the jack point and creates a very weak "hinge".

Probably the one design flaw in the 914 tub. The heater tube should have entered somewhere else.



You are right. I'm sure they must have considered it. I believe that they never thought these cars would last anyway so why bother.

The switch back to standard time has been great. I get a bunch of work done in the morning.

Dave
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DNHunt
post Nov 17 2007, 07:11 PM
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I've accomplished quite a bit. I added the outside layer of the inner long from a good piece off of another car

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This was plug welded and the edges were stitch welded.

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Here is the patch for the outer lower firewall with the heater tube welded in.

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DNHunt
post Nov 17 2007, 07:16 PM
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The inside of the patch. This was cut from a lower outside firewall fromm AA. Nice piece!

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Here it is inserting it. I doubt the piece of firewall coulbe much bigger and rotate in. Interference would come from the long and the engine shelf.

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I had to rotate and fudger it in. BFH necessary!

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DNHunt
post Nov 17 2007, 07:22 PM
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That piece tacted in.

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I left an opening to make sure that I got the heater tube home. Nice snug fit although there is no support in the long like the factory provided.

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I plugwelded backing for the patches. I'm just not good enough with butt welds so I needed the help.

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DNHunt
post Nov 17 2007, 07:28 PM
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Here is the backing for the inner firewall.

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Plug welded in

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Closed up. Not pretty but stuck!

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Dave



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dinomium
post Nov 17 2007, 08:39 PM
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Git on a chair son, all the good stuff is goin over yer head!
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that boy is a welding foo!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

Keep it up Dr Dave!
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greenie
post Nov 17 2007, 09:38 PM
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Hi Dave,

How's then "sun burn" healing?

Have you described the benefits of a welding helmut? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

You are doing very good work!


Greenie
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Root_Werks
post Nov 17 2007, 10:19 PM
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You know your 914 is trying really hard to recycle itself Dave. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) And there you go foiling its plans! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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McMark
post Nov 18 2007, 02:09 PM
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Looks great Dave! I hadn't seen that technique before. Welding in a backing plate first. I like it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

Nice work!
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DNHunt
post Nov 18 2007, 08:35 PM
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I started off the morning tacking in the engine shelf

Attached Image

Finished it by stich welding the edges and butt welding in the cut across the shelf. Mark the reason I use that backing is it makes butt welds much easier and stronger I hope.

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Added back in the triangle support and doughnut.

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