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> Spoke's 71 2.056L 914 Progress Thread, Driving it Like I Stole It
Spoke
post Dec 28 2007, 10:59 PM
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Like Zach said before, just what the World needs is another progress thread. So here it is for my 71 1.7L red ride.

I'm working on an engine swap for my leaky 1.7L with slipping clutch to a non-leaking, unknown GEX rebuilt 1.8L so I decided to concatenate several threads on this car into one progress thread.

Eventually I will sell the red 71 and keep the green 74 as my only 914. For now the plan is to get the new 1.8L engine in the car. The 1.8L has SSHE where the 1.7L in the car has very much corroded stock HE's.

Here's pics after last year's rear end accident that totaled the car and the finished product after many months of rehab.


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KaptKaos
post Dec 28 2007, 11:11 PM
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Whoa! What did I miss??? When did that happen?

Didn't you do an assload of bodywork already for that car?

Aw man, that's a major bummer.
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Spoke
post Dec 28 2007, 11:16 PM
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One of the first threads I started on the 914club/914world was a tongue-in-cheek CSOB bandaid thread for the leaky 1.7L in the 71.

Skid plate

My goal was simple. Contain the 4-10 drops of oil each day with as little $$$$$ input as possible.

So I added a skid plate (one of my wife's cookie sheets) under the engine to catch the drips.

As can be seen from the link above, the responses from my "solution" were all over the map.

QUOTE(MattR @ Nov 15 2004, 11:12 PM) *

LOL!!! Thats great.

QUOTE(Series9 @ Nov 15 2004, 11:19 PM) *

That's the funniest thing I've seen in a while. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)


^^^ These are the responses I was looking for.


QUOTE(Dave Bell @ Nov 16 2004, 03:09 PM) *

This is why Jake doesn't get many 914 owners buying his engines... lots of CSOB's out there.


^^^ This one was the catalyst for my sig below (CSOB of PA)


3 years after this "solution", the 1.7L hasn't dropped a drop of oil in my garage or anyone's driveways. I would wipe out the contained oil about once every 2 weeks.

Some responses worried about overheating the engine with the plate. This was not the case as I would drive the car then check the oil temp (normal) and temp of the plate itself. The plate would be warm but not hot at all indicating that it did not affect the temp of the engine.

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Spoke
post Dec 28 2007, 11:23 PM
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Threads about the rear ender and repairs:

Short Trip to Home Depot

Pounding Out A Dent

On The Road Again
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Spoke
post Dec 28 2007, 11:40 PM
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Here's some pics of the donor engine with tin removed. My plan is to clean up the engine and tin and put the Weber IDF40's on the engine.

I have the original FI from the 1.7L but during testing of the components, 6 of the 8 injectors that I had were leaky so I've decided to stay with the Webers.



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Spoke
post Dec 28 2007, 11:57 PM
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Besides cleaning up the engine and tin, I'll check the compression and do a leakdown test.

I noticed on cylinders 3 and 4 that the fins from the 2 cylinders were not exactly adjacent to each other. Not sure if the pic captures the offset of the fins.

I was thinking that the cylinders may have a different height leading to leakage at the cylinder/head interface. Leakdown and compression tests should reveal if there are any issues.


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Twystd1
post Dec 29 2007, 12:09 AM
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You don't want to know... really.....
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Is that a GEX tag on this engine...????????????


Clayton
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Spoke
post Dec 29 2007, 03:33 AM
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QUOTE(Twystd1 @ Dec 29 2007, 01:09 AM) *

Is that a GEX tag on this engine...???????????


Yep. I tried contacting GEX to find out what work was done on the engine but since the guy I bought the engine from had bought it from someone else, GEX couldn't (or didn't want to) find the build sheet on the engine to see what work had been done. They needed the name of the owner at the time and the name of the 1st owner (assuming I'm the 3rd) didn't come up in their database.

I've had the engine running out of the car and it didn't leak oil and seemed to run fine given that I haven't loaded it down yet. It looks as if the case was opened as I could see some blue sealant on the inside of the oil breather opening. I assumed the blue sealant was not from the manufacturer.

So, what's the scoop on GEX? Good? bad? Indifferent?

Spoke
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Spoke
post Jul 15 2008, 12:43 AM
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I've decided to put the original D-Jet FI from this car on the donor 1.8L engine. I've tested the brain and all its inputs and all seems to be working. Here's the link to some of the tests I've done on the brain:

Brain tests

Here's some test results from the MPS. The MPS was leaky as hell so I took it apart, cleaned it, and resealed the unit. Here's the leakdown results for the MPS. This leakdown is better than the leakdown of the MPS on my 2L 74... Horizontal units in minutes.


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Spoke
post Jul 15 2008, 12:47 AM
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With the MPS connected to the brain and with the engine running at 3000RPM (I used an oscillator to simulate the contacts in the distributor), here's the injector pulse width versus vacuum. High vacuum @ 3000RPM is like coasting with the throttle closed. Low vacuum @ 3000RPM is like accelerating with the throttle open. Injector pulse width is in milliseconds.



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Spoke
post Jul 15 2008, 01:03 AM
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Finally got around to sandblasting the engine tin and painting. Not doing powdercoating for this engine. The car is a salvage title and my interest in the car is for it to run good so I can take my 74 off the road and work on it & still have a 914 to drive. Just want the engine to look good.

Engine rear tin had some stress fractures which needed welding.
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These 4 pieces also needed some welding. I painted the engine tin before welding. Duh.
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Assorted engine stuff painted. I even painted the fan surround. Hopefully no issues painting these pieces.
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FI runners. Which is the left and which is the right?
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Spoke
post Aug 6 2008, 01:14 PM
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Putting the tin back on the engine. The CHT sensor on cylinder 3 was snapped off by the PO or previous rebuild. I couldn't get the remains out so I'll put the CHT sensor on cylinder 2. I closed off the hole in the #3 tin with fender washers and cut a hole for the CHT sensor on #2 tin.


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Spoke
post Aug 6 2008, 04:09 PM
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Question about #2 "Seal". This is the 1/4 inch spacer between the head and the intake runner.

Is this thing a gasket? It seems more like a spacer. It is a hard material. Do I need paper gaskets on both sides of this "seal"?


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fitsbain
post Aug 7 2008, 09:49 AM
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Where are the pictures of that sheet metal I sent you being installed?
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Spoke
post Aug 7 2008, 10:36 AM
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QUOTE(fitsbain @ Aug 7 2008, 11:49 AM) *

Where are the pictures of that sheet metal I sent you being installed?


Oh yeah. Almost done with that repair. The duct tape is temporary while the glue dries...

I'm so damn slow doing things. Still working on the engine to put in w/newer clutch so I can drive the car. Then I'll do some major body/Longs work.


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watsonrx13
post Aug 7 2008, 12:13 PM
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Man, I hope you used that 2-part expoy.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

-- Rob
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Spoke
post Aug 8 2008, 11:45 AM
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Got the plenum cleaned up and painted. Checked supplemental air valve, cold start injector, ambient air sensor; all OK. Checked out the throttle switches, cleaned and adjusted. Unit ready to be installed.


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Spoke
post Aug 9 2008, 05:28 AM
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Plenum is bolted on. Tin is mostly in place. Ready for intake runners.


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Spoke
post Aug 9 2008, 06:05 AM
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Decided to make gaskets to put between the intake spacers and the runners/heads.

I used 2 extra intake spacers, a couple of nuts&bolts, some gasket material, and a razorblade knife.

Cut the gasket material larger than needed then using the spacers as a template, cut holes for the 4 bolts and sandwiched the gasket material between the spacers.

With the razorblade knife, I cut along the spacers until I cut through the material for the intake holes and outer shape.

Making the 4 gaskets took about 20 minutes.


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neo914-6
post Aug 9 2008, 03:25 PM
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QUOTE(Spoke @ Dec 28 2007, 10:16 PM) *

One of the first threads I started on the 914club/914world was a tongue-in-cheek CSOB bandaid thread for the leaky 1.7L in the 71.

Skid plate

My goal was simple. Contain the 4-10 drops of oil each day with as little $$$$$ input as possible.

So I added a skid plate (one of my wife's cookie sheets) under the engine to catch the drips.

As can be seen from the link above, the responses from my "solution" were all over the map.

QUOTE(MattR @ Nov 15 2004, 11:12 PM) *

LOL!!! Thats great.

QUOTE(Series9 @ Nov 15 2004, 11:19 PM) *

That's the funniest thing I've seen in a while. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)


^^^ These are the responses I was looking for.


QUOTE(Dave Bell @ Nov 16 2004, 03:09 PM) *

This is why Jake doesn't get many 914 owners buying his engines... lots of CSOB's out there.


^^^ This one was the catalyst for my sig below (CSOB of PA)


3 years after this "solution", the 1.7L hasn't dropped a drop of oil in my garage or anyone's driveways. I would wipe out the contained oil about once every 2 weeks.

Some responses worried about overheating the engine with the plate. This was not the case as I would drive the car then check the oil temp (normal) and temp of the plate itself. The plate would be warm but not hot at all indicating that it did not affect the temp of the engine.


Not a bad idea, the Mercedes 300E was designed with a plastic "tray" under the engine that happens to catch oil from the leaky engine. Someone even created a "diaper" to make sure it didn't over flow... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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