Altenator issues, ideas for replacements? Options

[michaelt55]

Ok..I have an issue. The car is using a 1.7 model alternator with a chevy pulley on it. The alternator died due to an oil leak. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . Anyone know of a higher capacity 914 altenator I can use? or a an alternative? Did that altenator have an internal regulator on it? Ideas? Note this is a V8 and I would prefer keeping the wiring harness intact as possible.


Michael

[Matt Meyer]

Upgraded Bosh alternators are available here: High Voltage Bosh Alternators

The Bosh alternators on the 914 do not have internal regulators.

Why are you not using a GM 3-wire alternator? It has an internal voltage regulator.

There may be some questions using the GM alternator on the Type IV because of heat but a couple of people have made the conversion anyway. So if you are running a V-8 then I don’t understand why you are not using one.

The GM alternators are cheap, reliable and rated for more amps than the Bosh units.

I am not sure of the location but you would only have to replace the relatively small alternator wiring harness, worst case.

Here are sites that tell you generally how to wire up the conversion: There are a ton so if you don’t like these just search on something like GM alternator conversion.


Nova Alternator Conversion

Buick Alternator Conversions

Another One

[SirAndy]

Why are you not using a GM 3-wire alternator? It has an internal voltage regulator.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

i don't think i have ever seen a v8 conversion that used the stock alternator ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Andy

[michaelt55]

well..the previous owner did...and its fried so before I take everuthing apart, I wanted to get my gear together...I am looking at the GM als as they are 100 amp....


Michael

[michaelt55]

anyone know how to hook up the three wire GM altenator using the 914 leads?? I have an idea but really don't want to screw up and fry my wiring system. I want to upgrade to the 75-100 amp altenator but afraid of hooking it up and melting my harness....help?


Michael (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[Dr Evil]

Do you know what the 3 wires are out of the alt? If so, I can help ya figure out the wiring.

[michaelt55]

Mike, the 3 wires on the GM?


Michael

[Dr Evil]

Ya. If I know what the output wires are I can tell you where to run them to very easily.

[Sleepin]

Good info on GM three wire outputs: http://www.6066gmcguy.org/charging.htm

(IMG:http://www.6066gmcguy.org/electrical/alt-1.gif)

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm
http://www.novaresource.org/alternator.htm (my favorite from an awesome site!!)

[Dr Evil]

If that is the 3 wire output type you have then it would be a little more difficult as it counts the output wire as one of the 3. In out original alternators the 3 wires are D-, D+, and DF. There is only one field wire on the GM model. I gotta look up what the D- and D+ do and see if they can be left out. You may just need to install an external regulator, OR get an internally regulated alternator.

[michaelt55]

would prefer the internal regulator but its hooked up to a stock 1.7 with external...

[Dr Evil]

You can bypass the stock alt wiring easily if you want to go with an internally regulated alt. The amount of wiring required would be small, too. See what you can find, what the outputs are, and we can help you mate it up.

[Matt Meyer]

Awww! Come on. Just a little digging on the links I posted gives these diagrams:





I suggested 3-wire because your "G" light will still work. 3-wire GM can still be either internally or externally regulated. 1-wire is simple to hook up. Just the battery connection but your "G" light is always on. I guess you could just disconnect it. Anyway look at the links above and it will tell you why 3-wire is always superior.

The big big fat pin on the back goes to the starter (or battery in theory). Just to get it out of the way.

Externally Regulated 3-Wire(May be able to use stock wiring harness)
IIRC D- is essentially a reference ground between the relay and alternator(check if brown wire) and goes to the G pin on the alternator, F is the Field (DF) and D+ is Alternator Voltage (R on alternator).

Bird Board Alternator Discussion

Internally Regulated 3-Wire:
Pull out Bosh regulator on relay board or other wise jump pins such that pin 1 on the alternator goes to the "other" pin on the relay or equilivent (The one not marked D-, DF, or D+). I think the IR alternator will work if Pin 2 goes to the D+ pin on the relay board. Pin 2 needs to reference back to battery voltage but it is best if it is away from the alternator. If the land for the D+ pin is not switched power, I would try and find another +12V switched power pin on the relay board. Then with just a couple of jumpers you can use your stock wiring harness still.