Awww! Come on. Just a little digging on the links I posted gives these diagrams:
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentI suggested 3-wire because your "G" light will still work. 3-wire GM can still be either internally or externally regulated. 1-wire is simple to hook up. Just the battery connection but your "G" light is always on. I guess you could just disconnect it. Anyway look at the links above and it will tell you why 3-wire is always superior.
The big big fat pin on the back goes to the starter (or battery in theory). Just to get it out of the way.
Externally Regulated 3-Wire(May be able to use stock wiring harness)
IIRC D- is essentially a reference ground between the relay and alternator(check if brown wire) and goes to the G pin on the alternator, F is the Field (DF) and D+ is Alternator Voltage (R on alternator).
Bird Board Alternator DiscussionInternally Regulated 3-Wire:
Pull out Bosh regulator on relay board or other wise jump pins such that pin 1 on the alternator goes to the "other" pin on the relay or equilivent (The one not marked D-, DF, or D+). I think the IR alternator will work if Pin 2 goes to the D+ pin on the relay board. Pin 2 needs to reference back to battery voltage but it is best if it is away from the alternator. If the land for the D+ pin is not switched power, I would try and find another +12V switched power pin on the relay board. Then with just a couple of jumpers you can use your stock wiring harness still.