Help! Car I am thinking about getting..., My first 914 acquisition Options

[trscott]

Well, we picked up that signal orange '73 914 today from Jamie, along with a red '72 914-shaped "potted plant" (<grin>, pics to follow), and a spare Type 4 long block that may be rebuildable.

We've got our work cut out for us, but we'll have fun.

First order of business is to give the '73 a tuneup and do a leakdown test to see where we stand with it. I'd like to drive it a while before we need to tear it down, so we can begin with one of the other two blocks.

There are several other nagging problems that will need immediate attention. The battery isn't charging properly, probably the entire electrical system needs to be sorted out a bit. One tail light wouldn't turn off once and I had to unplug a wire from the light so as not to run the battery down, by the time we got home, the lights were so dim we could barely drive in the dark.

Another problem is the tranny sometimes doesn't want to shift into first gear or reverse without grinding. Several times I had to start in 2nd. First we thought it was because the thing has to idle so high, like 1500 RPM or so, but a few times even when I could get the idle to drop down to 700 or 800 RPM, it still didn't want to shift without grinding. Felt like there was no synchro at all. Might be just the clutch not throwing far enough, but I think I should also check the gear oil.

Good news is the car drives very nicley, tracks real straight, you can do 65 with just your little finger on the steering, and when I let go on a straight stretch it was happy just running right down the middle of the lane quite smoothly.

I will post some more as we dig into it.

Cheers!

[JRust]

Glad you made it home fine. Sorry about the light & charging stuff. I never did drive the car at night. I'm sure it you'll get it sorted quickly.

I drove the Pathfinder down to Schwab as the strange sway is driving me nuts. One of the front tires had seperated. Still there with the new front tires but not as bad. I'll have to get it sorted out. I don't think it is just those bushings you pointed out. I'm just hoping it isn't a major thing.

I think the clutch just needs adjusting. Seems like I remember it oing that once before once it had been run for a while. I was able to get it in fine after that couple minute stretch. I'll be curious to see what you find there. I ddin't check to see what shape the clutch plate was in. I'll be happy to throw a good one your way if it turns out that one needs replacing.

Good luck with both cars. Will make a great father son project for sure

[PeeGreen 914]

Have fun with your project guys. Be sure to take lots of pictures and remember to head up the the WCR in July. You're only a few miles away.

[trscott]

I did some poking around collecting numbers and such and here's what I found:

1973 Porsche 914
VIN: 4732916954
Date Code: 03/1973
Engine Code: EB006098, 1.7L
Color Number: L 20E, Signal Orange
Chassis Number: 1149538
Dual Webers 40s maybe? Haven't been able to read the code yet
Mechanical advance distributor, not a mallory, maybe (yuck) an 009

1972 Porsche 914
VIN: 4722920558
Date Code: 06/1972
Engine Code: EC011800, 1.8L
Color Number: L 60E, Irish Green (but it is mostly metallic red at the moment)
Chassis Number: 2729549
Stock Vacum Distributor
Single carb, looks like a small progressive
Shame it doesn't still have its original L-Jetronic

Spare Block
Engine Code: EA049531, 1.7L
Stock Vacum distributor

Looks like at the very least, a distributor swap is in order for the Pumpkin.

My son would probably like the Irish Green, dark green is his favorite color. He is pretty determined to try to get it running, but we'll see.

[trscott]

I don't think it is just those bushings you pointed out. I'm just hoping it isn't a major thing.

Well, I jacked it up over my grease pit and poked around all over the rear chassis, and I can tell you there is nothing broken or rusted, or loose, except that those swing arms are kind of loose on their rubber bushings. The arms themselves aren't worn or anything. Les Scwab will probably want to replace all the suspension parts, but I'm really pretty sure it would be fine with some new bushings. I'm sure the shocks have seen better days. The sway bar looks fine.

I buy tires at Les Schwabb, but if you take brakes in there for instance, every time they service them they want to completely replace the entire caliper when all you need is new pads. I imagine they'll want to treat suspensions the same.

My older son drove it between Portland and Seattle a number of times, and today my younger son drove it from Newberg to your place on I5 doing 65 with no problems at all, so it can't be too bad.

[orange914]

i've got a really nice calif. lid if your interested.

i say fix it if you can do the repairs, there have been many WAY worse cars repaired. thats gotta be fairly std. rust for the coast area?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

mike

[mel reckling]

I don't think it is just those bushings you pointed out. I'm just hoping it isn't a major thing.

Well, I jacked it up over my grease pit and poked around all over the rear chassis, and I can tell you there is nothing broken or rusted, or loose, except that those swing arms are kind of loose on their rubber bushings. The arms themselves aren't worn or anything. Les Scwab will probably want to replace all the suspension parts, but I'm really pretty sure it would be fine with some new bushings. I'm sure the shocks have seen better days. The sway bar looks fine.

I buy tires at Les Schwabb, but if you take brakes in there for instance, every time they service them they want to completely replace the entire caliper when all you need is new pads. I imagine they'll want to treat suspensions the same.

My older son drove it between Portland and Seattle a number of times, and today my younger son drove it from Newberg to your place on I5 doing 65 with no problems at all, so it can't be too bad.

I had a 96 Pathfinder with the worn bushings and here's what I found.

Even with a great wholesale connection the bars alone are quite a bit(I believe around $4-500). Dealer will charge $1400 for the entire replacement. I got a quote to do the bar replacement from a guy I trust for $800. This is just for the rear suspension alone.

Good news is the bushings are available through off-road shops for as little as $12 apiece. Tips include freezing and lubing before installation. A press is recommended
although you don't care how you beat/cut the old ones out. The bars are usually in good reusable shape.

I also replaced an entire shock tower I was able to find for $75 and saved a ton of money on a bad front strut. The shock itself was $275 from the dealer without all the tearing apart.

Pathfinders can be scary with the 'rolling' suspensions and a few have been flipped when they get into a side-to-side wander. Should handle much better when fixed.

Hopefully you won't have to do emissions work on it. The knock sensor is buried beneath the fuel injection assembly that pays 10 hours to do besides the cost of the unit of $180($130 wholesale) and it's no bigger than a wristwatch. I think there's 4 O2 sensors before the cat.(maybe 8).

[orange914]

The knock sensor is buried beneath the fuel injection assembly that pays 10 hours to do besides the cost of the unit of $180($130 wholesale) and it's no bigger than a wristwatch. I think there's 4 O2 sensors before the cat.(maybe 8).

the knock sensor on nissans seemed to be one of the big issues on our 3.0 maxima along with the spark plug boots leaking. they want $100ish (x 6) to get new (coil on plug), the only way you can buy them. i just got 1" heat shrink tube and insulted them. works great, different car!

mike