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> Engine Swaps, Which would you Pick?
749142
post Feb 21 2008, 03:53 PM
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So guys what would you choose to swap into your 914? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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PeeGreen 914
post Feb 21 2008, 11:51 PM
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Just when you think you're done...wait, there is more..lol
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Feb 21 2008, 09:36 PM) *

2.5 Six


That is what I am going to make (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) I am getting my hands on a 2.2 very soon. I just don't know if I am going to go with 89mm Ps&Cs or if I should go with 86mm Ps&Cs. Going with 86 would be about 3k in savings unless one of our guys stumbled on some inexpensive 89mm. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)
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749142
post Feb 22 2008, 12:13 AM
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hmm? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) im beginning a 2056 project. i have 2.0 heads for also i have a mild street cam i have plans to get into megasquirt fuel injection and i already have a custom high flow exhuast. so i ll see wut it yeilds. im expecting at least 150 hp minimum. any comments on wut you think this engine will yeild? im not sure.
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749142
post Feb 22 2008, 12:15 AM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Feb 21 2008, 02:15 PM) *

2270 T4. Nothing else works for me.

hey mcmark. how are the 2270s set up? wut are the bore and strokes on them? also i have heard that stroker motors are not that reliable? crank failures? thats wut i have heard from reliable sources around in my area. but how durable are they?
steven
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Justinp71
post Feb 22 2008, 12:33 AM
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2.7 CIS.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Thats what I have. lots of power, era correct, and the sixes sound great at 6k rpms. Mine has been really reliable and gets 23 mpg (town and freeway).

I would assume building a 180-200 hp 4 cyl still costs about 60-80% of a six... maybe someone will chime that knows...
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749142
post Feb 22 2008, 12:38 AM
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QUOTE(Justinp71 @ Feb 21 2008, 10:33 PM) *

2.7 CIS.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Thats what I have. lots of power, era correct, and the sixes sound great at 6k rpms. Mine has been really reliable and gets 23 mpg (town and freeway).

I would assume building a 180-200 hp 4 cyl still costs about 60-80% of a six... maybe someone will chime that knows...

about how much does a 2.7 cis conversion cost?
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Justinp71
post Feb 22 2008, 12:48 AM
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QUOTE(749142 @ Feb 21 2008, 10:38 PM) *

QUOTE(Justinp71 @ Feb 21 2008, 10:33 PM) *

2.7 CIS.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Thats what I have. lots of power, era correct, and the sixes sound great at 6k rpms. Mine has been really reliable and gets 23 mpg (town and freeway).

I would assume building a 180-200 hp 4 cyl still costs about 60-80% of a six... maybe someone will chime that knows...

about how much does a 2.7 cis conversion cost?



Well...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=394159

My motor only cost about $2k and I have been running it for 8 years, but it always has been leaking oil , then we spent another $1.5-2k on parts (oil tank, oil Lines, throttle cable, motor mount, fuel lines).

So about $4000, but I've gone back and replaced wear items such as the clutch and chain tensioners.

I guess the key is find an inexpensive good condition six to run.
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PeeGreen 914
post Feb 22 2008, 12:55 AM
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You can do a dirty conversion for under 5k. A 2.7 with CIS could be nice, but you would need to decide if you really want to go the six route or stay with the four. Once you start to go for a six you start adding stuff that is difficult to un-do... like the correct engine mount and oil tank. I am going for both. I want to finish my six and then I want to buy a four shell to prep it all purdy like to drop a monster Jake Raby engine in it.
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dug
post Feb 22 2008, 04:33 AM
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I'm not a concourse weenie, but I prefer the motors porsche was using when they made our cars. Small displacement, light weight, mag cases, rev happy motors. I'm going to be building up a 2.4 with 2.2 'S' pistons and mod-solex cams (halfway between E and S). But I'll be using TWM trottles and megasquirt for a modern twist!

Does anyone here have corner weight numbers on their 3.0 or bigger conversion car? How much did it end up weighing?

I'll also be driving my totally stock 1970 1.7L Tangeriner around while I'm building the six. I like em all.

dug
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Justinp71
post Feb 22 2008, 11:57 AM
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I weighed mine it was at 2250 lbs w/o driver and 1/4 tank of gas.

According to:
http://www.penaltykicker.com/911/data/Weig...20for%20911.xls

The 3.0 is only 21 more lbs, putting it at 2271, with everything in it (seats, door panels and I think a bolt in roll bar)

FYI.. it was a car balance beam scale that sits outside of the sacramento dragstrip, so i'm not sure how accurate it was.
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SirAndy
post Feb 22 2008, 01:15 PM
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QUOTE(dug @ Feb 22 2008, 02:33 AM) *

Does anyone here have corner weight numbers on their 3.0 or bigger conversion car? How much did it end up weighing?


my car used to be 1950 lbs with 1/2 tank of gas and the 1.7L motor ...

now, i'm just a bit over 2000 lbs with the 3.6L motor ...

not too bad.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy
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pete-stevers
post Feb 22 2008, 01:23 PM
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my thoughts on my next car
3.2 short stroke w pmos
no cutting no fandgeling in the engine compartment
and retaining a stock sixish look

i think a raby engine would be my second pick
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McMark
post Feb 22 2008, 01:30 PM
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QUOTE(749142 @ Feb 21 2008, 10:15 PM) *

QUOTE(McMark @ Feb 21 2008, 02:15 PM) *

2270 T4. Nothing else works for me.

hey mcmark. how are the 2270s set up? wut are the bore and strokes on them? also i have heard that stroker motors are not that reliable? crank failures? thats wut i have heard from reliable sources around in my area. but how durable are they?
steven


78.4 stroke * 96 bore

Apparently they aren't that reliable... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)
It's all in the combo.® Buy a bunch of mismatched parts and you'll have yourself a peppy little hand grenade. Buy a proven engine kit with the combo DIALED IN and you'll have yourself a long lasting, MONSTER.
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Chuck
post Feb 22 2008, 01:43 PM
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QUOTE(Justinp71 @ Feb 21 2008, 10:33 PM) *

2.7 CIS.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

I would assume building a 180-200 hp 4 cyl still costs about 60-80% of a six... maybe someone will chime that knows...


When I looked at a kit, it was between $5-$7k (depending on what you wanted e.g. 2056, 2270, 2316, carbs, FI, etc.). A Tangerine exhaust added about another $2k. So, about $7-$9k. When done, brand new motor.

I found a 3.2 w/ approximately 4,000 original miles on it for $6k shipped. Figure another $3-$4k for the conversion parts and am at $10k. When done, a used motor (albeit low mileage).

YMMV
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J P Stein
post Feb 22 2008, 01:47 PM
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QUOTE(McMark @ Feb 22 2008, 11:30 AM) *


It's all in the combo.® Buy a bunch of mismatched parts and you'll have yourself a peppy little hand grenade. Buy a proven engine kit with the combo DIALED IN and you'll have yourself a long lasting, MONSTER.


I keep reading this.
Name me 5 people that have a "long lasting monster" in a 914.....let's say 5 years
without a rebuild for long lasting.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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Brando
post Feb 22 2008, 02:13 PM
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BUY MY SPARE KIDNEY!!!
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I got the stock motor in mine. 33 years, running good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

QUOTE(J P Stein @ Feb 22 2008, 11:47 AM) *

QUOTE(McMark @ Feb 22 2008, 11:30 AM) *


It's all in the combo.® Buy a bunch of mismatched parts and you'll have yourself a peppy little hand grenade. Buy a proven engine kit with the combo DIALED IN and you'll have yourself a long lasting, MONSTER.


I keep reading this.
Name me 5 people that have a "long lasting monster" in a 914.....let's say 5 years
without a rebuild for long lasting.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

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749142
post Feb 22 2008, 08:02 PM
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QUOTE(J P Stein @ Feb 22 2008, 11:47 AM) *

QUOTE(McMark @ Feb 22 2008, 11:30 AM) *


It's all in the combo.® Buy a bunch of mismatched parts and you'll have yourself a peppy little hand grenade. Buy a proven engine kit with the combo DIALED IN and you'll have yourself a long lasting, MONSTER.


I keep reading this.
Name me 5 people that have a "long lasting monster" in a 914.....let's say 5 years
without a rebuild for long lasting.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

well had a 2056 for 6 years and 80 thousand miles. but 2056 isnt really that much of a monster. i think ill stick with my 2056 project. at least until the strokers become both more reliable and affordable. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Justinp71
post Feb 23 2008, 09:26 AM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Feb 22 2008, 11:15 AM) *

QUOTE(dug @ Feb 22 2008, 02:33 AM) *

Does anyone here have corner weight numbers on their 3.0 or bigger conversion car? How much did it end up weighing?


my car used to be 1950 lbs with 1/2 tank of gas and the 1.7L motor ...

now, i'm just a bit over 2000 lbs with the 3.6L motor ...

not too bad.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy



What have you removed from your car???

BTW: 2000lbs / 300 hp = 6.66 lb/hp <--- Thats pretty damn good (not like you didn't already know)

Another thing I forgot was that my weight was with the old '75 bumpers. Thats probably like 100 lbs...
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lotus_65
post Feb 23 2008, 09:58 AM
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Money being no object, i'd convert the whole thing to:

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PRS914-6
post Feb 23 2008, 10:05 AM
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Like Andy I went with a 95 3.6. These are great engines that don't need to be pushed hard to deliver a fast ride. The 95 and earlier non-Vario-Ram engines are OBD-I electronics that do not require a re-flash to operate in our cars. Also, 95 has hydraulic lifters READ: No valve adjusting!. A re-flash for 96-up is about $1000.00 if you go that route and like Andy said the Vario Ram won't fit right anyway.

After going through the entire conversion process my recommendation would be as follows if you go the six route

1. Buy the cheapest engine you can find that's decent and rebuild before installation.
2. Get a 3.2 or a 3.6 with modern electronics.
3. Have a LARGE pocketbook and be patient.

There is a lot more expenses for doing a six and it can easily spiral out of control if you are not careful. Is it worth it? I think so. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

BTW, my car weighed 2200 with 1/2 tank of fuel, spare tire and two sacks of concrete on the drivers seat during corner balancing. No effort was made for lightening the car but it has fiberglass bumpers and early light weight doors.
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