3D914s 914-6 SHO 3.2L v6, Build Thread - Project for sale. See classifieds Options

[3d914]

Mike, is there that much adjustment in the plate?

[bryanc]

Hi Gerard!

Good to see progress on this project!

[3d914]

Hey Bryan,

Looks like you've been about as scarce as I've been. What's new?

[3d914]

Well a not so unexpected Surprise today (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
I thought I would remove at least the floor pan rubber under the seats since I'm fabbing new mounts for 944 seats; only to find . . .



Bummer (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Appears to only be surface rust, but now I'll have to remove all of it to make sure I don't have any through holes.

[3d914]

Also worked on the door jam today. I removed the strike plate and there doesn't appear to be any movement possible for the mounting screws of the plate or for the strike.

Mike was your thought that I make my own adjustment, or should there be some factory adjustment there?

[70_914]

A couple things, from a SHO owner standpoint.

1. Are you using the 3.2 or the 3.0 oil pan? They are shaped differently, and the 3.0 pan may give you more clearance.

2. You do know that the intake can go on either way, right? One way might work easier for plumbing than the other.

3. Please stop calling it a Ford engine. It is a work of art made by Yamaha and installed into a Ford vehicle...

Keep it coming, it looks good so far!

[swl]

Well a not so unexpected Surprise today (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
I thought I would remove at least the floor pan rubber under the seats since I'm fabbing new mounts for 944 seats; only to find . . .



Bummer (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Appears to only be surface rust, but now I'll have to remove all of it to make sure I don't have any through holes.

Thats not rust. That's a slight discoloration.

[jcambo7]

Well a not so unexpected Surprise today (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
I thought I would remove at least the floor pan rubber under the seats since I'm fabbing new mounts for 944 seats; only to find . . .



Bummer (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Appears to only be surface rust, but now I'll have to remove all of it to make sure I don't have any through holes.

Thats not rust. That's a slight discoloration.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
I have seen a lot worse.

[3d914]

Well, let me pull off some more floor pan rubber and we just might!

Got the door latch plate figured out - speaking of rust - it appears that the receiver plate on the drivers side is rusted to the sheet metal and not moving as it should. I'll drill out the spot weld and remove it and see how it looks.

Kevin, its the 3.2 block and pan. No gains from intake shifting since I'm going longitudinal install. And I like the feathers it ruffles when I call it a Ford engine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

[3d914]

I've been considering my install options for the radiator. The stock SHO radiator will fit with no problems, and I can mount in the front trunk of the 914 as do the subi & V8 guys. However, the main draw-back is routing the coolant hoses back to the engine (behind the driver) and venting the heated air out of the front trunk. I really don't like hacking big sections out the wheel wells to vent air. Better, but still not ideal, is venting through the hood.

As an alternative I've been considering a couple different paths:

1. Mount two 8"x18" radiators in the fender wells, and a third under the rear trunk on the drivers side.
2. Mount two larger 11"x20" under the trunk on both sides.

Option 1 would require an air inlet vent on each side, fabbed out of fiberglass, with metal or FG housing to direct the air into the radiators. The third radiator would simply draw air from the engine bay & under the car and vent back out the rear. The side vents would add a certain "coolness" factor since the car has flares.
Here's some sample radiators.


Option 2 would be the most stealthy. I know guys who have mounted oil coolers this size with fans, so I'm reasonably confident this could work. Another option on the location would be up next to the firewall, but laying almost flat - drawing air up from underneath the car and venting up.
Larger one.


Thoughts?

[Mike Bellis]

I would like to see a cooling system work in the rear. I would love to have a front trunk!

[Andyrew]

Whats the volume of the stock radiator? Whats the volume of each small radiator?

Here is what I would do.

Start with the radiator that lays flat and then warm up the car and let it idle on the street mid day. Watch the temp. If normal operating temp is 190 and 225 is overheating see if it goes over 200. If not then take the car on the road and see if it can keep it cool at speed (since you dont have any air being forced through the radiator).

If it doesnt hold its on at speed but its good at idle, add one of the small side radiators in the fender (or both) and then do the same test. The problem is those little radiators dont have much volume. I think you should step your game up and get a couple of honda half radiators. They would cool much better than the tiny piping in the motorcycle radiators.

[3d914]

The stock core is single-core/single-pass, and covers 360 in.sq. I would configure the smaller sets to be just over that, say 380+.

I think the rear option - between the engine and side of bay - looks promising. Two half-sized radiators, pulling air up from underneath and venting in the engine bay. Appeals to me more than hacking the front trunk & bumpers.

[Andyrew]

Its not surface area, its volume and surface area, you need to have as much volume and surface area in your system to make it work (Combined with airflow...)

Thats why those motorcycle radiators just wont work. Their inlets are TINY.

[3d914]

Andrew - I hear what your saying, but if the core tubing is the same diameter, and covers the equivalent surface area - you are getting the same volume. Agreed the MC radiators probably don't flow the same volume, that's why I somewhat prefer the larger ones for option 2. Also I don't add more body work - adding side scoops.

[3d914]

OK here's my first mockup for the mini-radiators. These are 11x14.38x2" dual-core, with fans mounted on the back side. In this configuration they would mount on the engine bar with a floating frame. This way the engine and radiators would be removed together when dropping the engine out for service.



From the side you can see that the exhaust will drop down near the back third of the radiator. The exhaust manifold has heat shields added to it since on the stock config one manifold is less than an inch from the radiator fan.



From the back, the radiators will sit just inside the motor mount frame with plenty of clearance for exhaust pipes.

Thoughts?

[Andyrew]

I think it will work. Heat shields will be mandatory though. There is some neat stuff used by the turbo guys for when their intake is on the same side as their turbo. A very trick insulation.



You'll need to figure something to increase airflow to the radiators at speed. Scoops or something.

[andys]

It's going to be tricky to determine if your proposed configuration will realize a pressure differential at speed. No pressure differential and you'll get no flow through the radiators. Fans are ok for standing still or moving very slowly, but it's what happens over 25 or 30 MPH that's key.

Andys

[3d914]

With all the air flow under the car I would think there would be sufficient - but as you say the trick will be getting it directed to the radiators. The stock air deflectors might be helpful in disrupting the high pressure air underneath and allowing it to be drawn into the engine bay.

Being somewhat close to the firewall, it wouldn't be difficult to construct some custom fg scoop/ducting to enclose them. Again I could drop down at least as far as the stock deflector to scoop air - without worrying about them getting torn up.

I was also thinking about positioning them farther back, just behind the drive shafts & below the trunk. I think this position would be more difficult to direct air directly into though.

[SirAndy]

With all the air flow under the car I would think there would be sufficient - but as you say the trick will be getting it directed to the radiators. The stock air deflectors might be helpful in disrupting the high pressure air underneath and allowing it to be drawn into the engine bay.

I'm pretty sure with the air deflectors, the pressure would be going the opposite way. The deflectors help drawing air away from the engine compartment, not into it.

Unless you have some scoops under then car, your airflow would have to be reversed. Meaning the fans should suck air from the top through the radiators.

Either way, I'm not sure you'll get enough pressure differential for some good air-flow.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)