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> Rust Inhibitors
Bartlett 914
post Mar 18 2007, 07:57 AM
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QUOTE(orthobiz @ Mar 15 2007, 06:37 PM) *

Apparently Waxoyl no longer available especially in the post-911 (not the car) era because of flammability issues. Home recipe from a british Mini site:

Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:

2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, (takes a long time; you can use very low heat (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.


Please be sensible when you make this stuff; don't go breathing the fumes or applying heat and burning down your house. If you have any doubts about it, err on the side of caution and just buy a commercially available product.

I'm pretty positive John Paterek applied this to my old 76 914 back in the 80's including injecting into the longitudinals and behind the sail vinyl. Those areas have not rusted to this day. When he first applied it, a bit oozed out on hot summer days around the sail vinyl but then stopped.

I'm wondering if there's any role for anti-rust treatment if a car has original finish and is not rusted out? A way to avoid undercoating?

Paul


I am doing a rustoration on a 74. The longs are solid (for now) but I know there is rust begining inside them. There was a rust thru at the hell hole and I could see some inside. I don't want to cut into the longs just to paint. I am thinking this wax mixture may be the best solution. Maybe drill a 3/8 hole from inside the front wheel well to gain access to the long. Then using a long tube with a spray head at the end, Spray this mixture in the long starting from the rear and pulling the tube out towards the front spraying the inside. I am mostly concerned about the bottom of the long as this will be the first to rust.

This mixture should easily be made using an electric hot plate and a double boiler to aid the melting of the wax (low temperature).

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orthobiz
post Mar 18 2007, 08:24 AM
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Thanks for answering. I'm getting a 74 1.8 in pristine condition. It's going from CA to 914Ltd; Brad is familiar with the Waxoyl product but he hasn't been able to get any for a few years.

I'm really wondering if a car as rust-free as I think this one is (I haven't seen the car yet) will benefit from a rustproofing treatment 33 years later.

Paul
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914efi
post Mar 18 2007, 08:24 AM
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Used oil works well. Messy and should be redone every so often, but gets into all crevices. Open gear lube comes in spray cans, it gels after being applied.
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SGB
post Mar 18 2007, 09:46 AM
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arizona is a good rust preventative....
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rfuerst911sc
post Mar 19 2007, 05:55 PM
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QUOTE(orthobiz @ Mar 15 2007, 06:37 PM) *

Apparently Waxoyl no longer available especially in the post-911 (not the car) era because of flammability issues. Home recipe from a british Mini site:

Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:

2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, (takes a long time; you can use very low heat (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.


Please be sensible when you make this stuff; don't go breathing the fumes or applying heat and burning down your house. If you have any doubts about it, err on the side of caution and just buy a commercially available product.

I'm pretty positive John Paterek applied this to my old 76 914 back in the 80's including injecting into the longitudinals and behind the sail vinyl. Those areas have not rusted to this day. When he first applied it, a bit oozed out on hot summer days around the sail vinyl but then stopped.

I'm wondering if there's any role for anti-rust treatment if a car has original finish and is not rusted out? A way to avoid undercoating?

Paul

I have a newbie question. When useing this home brew Waxoyl concoction or used oil or whatever is there a concern the odor from these items will be smelled in the cabin? Don't the heater tubes run thru the longs? I'm assuming when spraying this stuff I assume your trying to spray more towards the top of the enclosed area so it can run to the bottom, by doing this the heater tube will be covered correct? I am in the process of redoing a 1975 chassis and I want to spray/inject something into hollow cavities to prevent rust. Besides the longs and the rear inner/outer fenders any other areas to spray this stuff?
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Bartlett 914
post Mar 19 2007, 08:14 PM
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QUOTE

I have a newbie question. When useing this home brew Waxoyl concoction or used oil or whatever is there a concern the odor from these items will be smelled in the cabin? Don't the heater tubes run thru the longs? I'm assuming when spraying this stuff I assume your trying to spray more towards the top of the enclosed area so it can run to the bottom, by doing this the heater tube will be covered correct? I am in the process of redoing a 1975 chassis and I want to spray/inject something into hollow cavities to prevent rust. Besides the longs and the rear inner/outer fenders any other areas to spray this stuff?



I think you are correct about the smell. I am in hopes that is is temporary. I have read somewhere that it does go away in time (how much time?). I was planning on spraying only the bottom of the inside of the long because I do not want the "Sound Absorber" to absorb this stuff. Getting the full long would be better but I don't know how I could do it without drilling a lot of holes.
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sww914
post Mar 19 2007, 08:28 PM
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Wurth sells a good body cavity wax, 3m has one also. You can buy a wand gun and the 3m wax from an autobody supply, Wurth has it's own version.
Modern VW's drip the crap out of everywhere when you cut pieces off of them, but it doesn't really catch on fire much, even when you're plasma cutting. Sometimes you have to take a blower and blow it out, but you never need an extinguisher or anything like that. I think the guns are around 30-60 bucks, and the wax is around 15-20 a quart.
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