The Doc's tranny waggin' Options

[Dr Evil]

Completely agree (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I would have to redo my whole geometry if I went with another or different set. No thanks. I did it when I built the engine and it was on the stand. I do not want to do it with the engine in place and am not dropping it again if I can help it.

[Dr Evil]

Damn, the stock rockers/studs/balls/nuts cost some money. I wish I held onto the ones I had (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[bulitt]

Ebay. Just buy new balls.

[Dr Evil]

Nope. Already bought and paid for. New balls, nuts, studs, and rockers. You kinda need all of them. Also, I do not trust any of the parts gotten from the vendor of the roller rockers.

[Dr Evil]

Scotty, did I bring and leave my CIS test kit at your place. I can not find it anywhere and I need it, like now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) If I am to use the bus to help move my shop I need to get the CIS tuned up.

[scotty b]

Scotty, did I bring and leave my CIS test kit at your place. I can not find it anywhere and I need it, like now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) If I am to use the bus to help move my shop I need to get the CIS tuned up.

nope (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Dr Evil]

How the hell do I lose a big red box with a CIS tester in it between Oct 1 and now? I looked everywhere (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I am pretty sure my pressure if grossly low.

[type47]

... I looked everywhere ...

Did you look in Baby Evil's toy chest? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Maybe he was checkin' his CIS pressures and forgot to put it back ...

If you are in a bind for a tester, there is a guy selling a homemade one on vwvortex for $20 and there are plans out there for building them...

[VaccaRabite]

How the hell do I lose a big red box with a CIS tester in it between Oct 1 and now? I looked everywhere (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I am pretty sure my pressure if grossly low.

Between Oct 1 and now you have had 4 different garages.
I'd say its a wonder more stuff has not turned up missing.

You know the quickest way to find it of course. Just buy a new one. You will find the old one within a day or so of the new one arriving.

Zach

[bozo914]

How the hell do I lose a big red box with a CIS tester in it between Oct 1 and now? I looked everywhere (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I am pretty sure my pressure if grossly low.

Between Oct 1 and now you have had 4 different garages.
I'd say its a wonder more stuff has not turned up missing.

You know the quickest way to find it of course. Just buy a new one. You will find the old one within a day or so of the new one arriving.

Zach

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) My jumper cables are missing, am going to buy new ones, I'll trip over the old ones tomorrow or Sunday

[scotty b]

How the hell do I lose a big red box with a CIS tester in it between Oct 1 and now? I looked everywhere (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I am pretty sure my pressure if grossly low.

Between Oct 1 and now you have had 4 different garages.
I'd say its a wonder more stuff has not turned up missing.

You know the quickest way to find it of course. Just buy a new one. You will find the old one within a day or so of the new one arriving.

Zach

You've seen Mike's organizational skillz. It's highly unlikely he misplaced it. Someone must have stolen it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mellow.gif)

[type47]

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-mo...-kit-97706.html

[bulitt]

Scotty, did I bring and leave my CIS test kit at your place. I can not find it anywhere and I need it, like now (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) If I am to use the bus to help move my shop I need to get the CIS tuned up.

nope (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I usually blame my wife for everything (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[worn]

How the hell do I lose a big red box with a CIS tester in it between Oct 1 and now? I looked everywhere (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) I am pretty sure my pressure if grossly low.

Well they came down a long way at hf if you only needcis. Just saying since now you arent stuck at thelow end. Duplication is the key to clutter. Good luck. My mom always told me to clean up when i wanted to vfind things. Bless her spirit, it always worked.

[Dr Evil]

HF has a CIS kit? Hmmmm.

[wingnut86]

Mike,

My apologies for the rest of the negative comments that the balance of the Motley Crew left here.

I for one, think your organizational skills are top notch (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

By the way, if you ever have to "work" on me personally in one of your medical MTV like "Cribs", please don't take the "NOT THIS ONE" tattoos personal...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

[Dr Evil]

Okey dokey, I finally took some time to go work on the bus yesterday. I have a download of the factory CIS manual and another one of a troubleshooting guide. From this I made a trouble shooting chart and reacquainted myself with the CIS.

Gripe list:
- Hard to start cold or warm
- Sometimes will not start warm
- Shitty mileage (could be because it is a bus and I drive it kind of fast)
- Poor idle. I had to adjust the idle high to keep the engine running when I switch from idle to D, otherwise it dies right off and it sucks to start (as above mentioned).

Based on this list, I had a suspicion that my fuel pressure was likely too low, and that this was either a restriction problem due to pump, or flow issue due to faulty WUR.

Pre-test exam of parts:

- Found that I had my Cold Start Injector wired backwards. This should not have been an issue, but I corrected it. I had Ground directly to one wire and power going first to the thermoswitch and then to CSI. This may have heated the TS and caused the CSI to prematurely close, but I doubt this was the issue. Fixed it anyway. The location I chose to put the TS in is unfortunately under more pressure than the TS could handle and it is pissing oil all over the place (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) I will need to remedy this soon.

- Cleaned up oil, checked a bunch of other stuff, proceeded.

The test:
- The manual says to hook the gauge between the control pressure outlet on the fuel distributor and the WUR. Did this. Almost all tests are done here.

Findings:
- All cold, key on, system pressure is around 2.2 bar ( I think this is high).
- Warm running control pressure was 4.7 bar (seems kind of high, actually).
- System leak down pressure was good as it dropped fairly fast to 2.2bar and then maintained for over 10 min. (pass)

I have to admit making a mistake. I did not unplug the WUR power in when doing the cold system pressure check so I just noted the pressure dropping and the WUR making a whining noise due to it shunting the pressure in back to the return line. So, I did not record exact cold system pressure. I could not replicate the cold system pressure as the WUR did not cool down over the hour or two I was messing with it while doing other projects around the garage. I will go back tonight (maybe) and see if I can get cold pressure.

Thoughts:

-If cold pressure is too high, starting will be hard. The WUR did warm up pretty damn fast. The manual mentions 10min, mine was like <2min. The manual is not exact on each WUR and they changed about every friggen year.

-If I can deduce that the whole system pressure is actually too high, I can then change the check valve pressure limit with removal of a shim on the intake of the fuel distributor.

- One issue I am having with this thing is that the WUR I have has a vacuum component to it. So, to accurately measure it I have to have a vacuum source. So, I need to buy one I can measure. OR, I have a WUR without this feature and I can just omit this and try that out. I would rather do it with the one that came with the system (I think it is correct). An improperly functioning vacuum mechanism in the WUR would make cold starts suck as it would not drop the pressure and the pressure would then flood the cylinders on start up. A high pressure state makes sense as the engine floods often; smell of gas, wont start, have to wait 30min for fuel to dissipate from cylinders.

Any thoughts from those that know CIS stuff? Maybe the WUR originally had a special time delay circuit that I am not compensating for. Maybe changing to a simpler WUR would solve/remove some issues. I want simple. The current system does not have the TB pressure regulator that I have on my 74 2.7 in my 914.

[malcolm2]

Okey dokey, I finally took some time to go work on the bus yesterday. I have a download of the factory CIS manual and another one of a troubleshooting guide. From this I made a trouble shooting chart and reacquainted myself with the CIS.

Grip list:
- Hard to start cold or warm
- Sometimes will not start warm
- Shitty mileage (could be because it is a bus and I drive it kind of fast)
- Poor idle. I had to adjust the idle high to keep the engine running when I switch from idle to D, otherwise it dies right off and it sucks to start (as above mentioned).

Based on this list, I had a suspicion that my fuel pressure was likely too low, and that this was either a restriction problem due to pump, or flow issue due to faulty WUR.

Pre-test exam of parts:

- Found that I had my Cold Start Injector wired backwards. This should not have been an issue, but I corrected it. I had Ground directly to one wire and power going first to the thermoswitch and then to CSI. This may have heated the TS and caused the CSI to prematurely close, but I doubt this was the issue. Fixed it anyway. The location I chose to put the TS in is unfortunately under more pressure than the TS could handle and it is pissing oil all over the place (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) I will need to remedy this soon.

- Cleaned up oil, checked a bunch of other stuff, proceeded.

The test:
- The manual says to hook the gauge between the control pressure outlet on the fuel distributor and the WUR. Did this. Almost all tests are done here.

Findings:
- All cold, key on, system pressure is around 2.2 bar ( I think this is high).
- Warm running control pressure was 4.2 bar (seems kind of high, actually).
- System leak down pressure was good as it dropped fairly fast to 2.2bar and then maintained for over 10 min. (pass)

I have to admit making a mistake. I did not unplug the WUR power in when doing the cold system pressure check so I just noted the pressure dropping and the WUR making a whining noise due to it shunting the pressure in back to the return line. So, I did not record exact cold system pressure. I could not replicate the cold system pressure as the WUR did not cool down over the hour or two I was messing with it while doing other projects around the garage. I will go back tonight (maybe) and see if I can get cold pressure.

Thoughts:

-If cold pressure is too high, starting will be hard. The WUR did warm up pretty damn fast. The manual mentions 10min, mine was like <2min. The manual is not exact on each WUR and they changed about every friggen year.

-If I can deduce that the whole system pressure is actually too high, I can then change the check valve pressure limit with removal of a shim on the intake of the fuel distributor.

- One issue I am having with this thing is that the WUR I have has a vacuum component to it. So, to accurately measure it I have to have a vacuum source. So, I need to buy one I can measure. OR, I have a WUR without this feature and I can just omit this and try that out. I would rather do it with the one that came with the system (I think it is correct). An improperly functioning vacuum mechanism in the WUR would make cold starts suck as it would not drop the pressure and the pressure would then flood the cylinders on start up. A high pressure state makes sense as the engine floods often; smell of gas, wont start, have to wait 30min for fuel to dissipate from cylinders.

Any thoughts from those that know CIS stuff? Maybe the WUR originally had a special time delay circuit that I am not compensating for. Maybe changing to a simpler WUR would solve/remove some issues. I want simple. The current system does not have the TB pressure regulator that I have on my 74 2.7 in my 914.

I have an 85 VW Cabriolet with CIS. I feel your pain. In the past, my problems were the under car fuel pump, but you are getting high pressure. My car has an in-tank one too. Folks say that the screen falls off of it sometimes. Could there be something in the return line? When is the last time you replaced the fuel filter?

I have also been thru a few fuel distributors. Those things are so finicky. A mechanic told me once that he used to polish the plunger with ashes from his cigarette.

One more thing: the injectors. Mine are easy to pull and do a squirt test in empty water bottles. Could be plugged.

Good luck.

Clark

[Dr Evil]

More digging, more revelation.

This is from a 3.0, so it is either 76-77. Non-turbo.

Atmospheric warm system pressure is 2.7-3.1 so I am significantly over this. Finally, a definitive problem. More to come as I dig around the notes and manuals.

[Dr Evil]

Okey dokey, I finally took some time to go work on the bus yesterday. I have a download of the factory CIS manual and another one of a troubleshooting guide. From this I made a trouble shooting chart and reacquainted myself with the CIS.

Grip list:
- Hard to start cold or warm
- Sometimes will not start warm
- Shitty mileage (could be because it is a bus and I drive it kind of fast)
- Poor idle. I had to adjust the idle high to keep the engine running when I switch from idle to D, otherwise it dies right off and it sucks to start (as above mentioned).

Based on this list, I had a suspicion that my fuel pressure was likely too low, and that this was either a restriction problem due to pump, or flow issue due to faulty WUR.

Pre-test exam of parts:

- Found that I had my Cold Start Injector wired backwards. This should not have been an issue, but I corrected it. I had Ground directly to one wire and power going first to the thermoswitch and then to CSI. This may have heated the TS and caused the CSI to prematurely close, but I doubt this was the issue. Fixed it anyway. The location I chose to put the TS in is unfortunately under more pressure than the TS could handle and it is pissing oil all over the place (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) I will need to remedy this soon.

- Cleaned up oil, checked a bunch of other stuff, proceeded.

The test:
- The manual says to hook the gauge between the control pressure outlet on the fuel distributor and the WUR. Did this. Almost all tests are done here.

Findings:
- All cold, key on, system pressure is around 2.2 bar ( I think this is high).
- Warm running control pressure was 4.2 bar (seems kind of high, actually).
- System leak down pressure was good as it dropped fairly fast to 2.2bar and then maintained for over 10 min. (pass)

I have to admit making a mistake. I did not unplug the WUR power in when doing the cold system pressure check so I just noted the pressure dropping and the WUR making a whining noise due to it shunting the pressure in back to the return line. So, I did not record exact cold system pressure. I could not replicate the cold system pressure as the WUR did not cool down over the hour or two I was messing with it while doing other projects around the garage. I will go back tonight (maybe) and see if I can get cold pressure.

Thoughts:

-If cold pressure is too high, starting will be hard. The WUR did warm up pretty damn fast. The manual mentions 10min, mine was like <2min. The manual is not exact on each WUR and they changed about every friggen year.

-If I can deduce that the whole system pressure is actually too high, I can then change the check valve pressure limit with removal of a shim on the intake of the fuel distributor.

- One issue I am having with this thing is that the WUR I have has a vacuum component to it. So, to accurately measure it I have to have a vacuum source. So, I need to buy one I can measure. OR, I have a WUR without this feature and I can just omit this and try that out. I would rather do it with the one that came with the system (I think it is correct). An improperly functioning vacuum mechanism in the WUR would make cold starts suck as it would not drop the pressure and the pressure would then flood the cylinders on start up. A high pressure state makes sense as the engine floods often; smell of gas, wont start, have to wait 30min for fuel to dissipate from cylinders.

Any thoughts from those that know CIS stuff? Maybe the WUR originally had a special time delay circuit that I am not compensating for. Maybe changing to a simpler WUR would solve/remove some issues. I want simple. The current system does not have the TB pressure regulator that I have on my 74 2.7 in my 914.

I have an 85 VW Cabriolet with CIS. I feel your pain. In the past, my problems were the under car fuel pump, but you are getting high pressure. My car has an in-tank one too. Folks say that the screen falls off of it sometimes. Could there be something in the return line? When is the last time you replaced the fuel filter?

I have also been thru a few fuel distributors. Those things are so finicky. A mechanic told me once that he used to polish the plunger with ashes from his cigarette.

One more thing: the injectors. Mine are easy to pull and do a squirt test in empty water bottles. Could be plugged.

Good luck.

Clark

Pressure being up could be an obstruction in the line, but the pressure was not up until the WUR warmed up. I just changed the filter, but that is on the supply side so if it was clogged it would be low pressure, not high at dist.

I dont smoke cigarettes, so that wont work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)