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> The Doc's tranny waggin'
rick 918-S
post Aug 3 2014, 07:37 AM
Post #1661


Hey nice rack! -Celette
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If you have an intake why not use this? http://www.summitracing.com/search/product...agement-systems

Self tunes as you drive. No drama.

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Dr Evil
post Aug 3 2014, 08:12 AM
Post #1662


Send me your transmission!
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Freaky cool, but the 4bbl or 2bbl is intended to be a temporary measure to get the bus to the next location. $xxxx is too much for a temp measure. I will get my frankenCIS to work. I WILL.....just not anytime soon. I dont mean like Scotty B project anytime soon. I will get it done way sooner than any of his stuff (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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budk
post Aug 3 2014, 08:33 AM
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Yes! It's a Bumblebee!
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Dr Evil
post Aug 3 2014, 02:24 PM
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Send me your transmission!
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Well, if you cant say anything nice.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Aug 3 2014, 04:07 PM
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Now, not that I intend to keep the cab on for a prolonged amount of time, but the event of down tube icing and the issues it plays with fuel suspension sounds like a problem for my shadetree mechanic skills. As such, I was wondering about maybe wrapping the runners with NiChrome wire to heat the top parts, at least. This would be more complete than just heating the mount for the carb. I figure the heads would heat up the bottom half of the runners and the wire could do the rest. Keeping the air charge at a better temp to keep the junk from freezing up and dropping fuel out of solution.

Here is one site with some parameters:
http://www.wiretron.com/nicrdat.html

Need to see, but I anticipate a pretty low current draw of <3A
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scotty b
post Aug 3 2014, 04:13 PM
Post #1666


rust free you say ?
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) really ? Are you fuggin serious ? Put the damned carb on it and drive the P.O.S. You're living in Ohiohwa, not Minnahsohtah. Yern't gun be havin no icerin problems (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Aug 3 2014, 04:24 PM
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Oh thank you Scottchcandyman. I like to think about solutions to problems. Probably about to spring on an Edelbrock 500 (1403) as was recommended by the corvair guys and is the cheapest solution.
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scotty b
post Aug 3 2014, 04:28 PM
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rust free you say ?
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You're thinking about a solution to a problem you think you may have that you more than likely won't. Why would you have " icing " issues ? You've built a flat 6 and stuffed it into a shoebox. You'll have more than enough heat generated in there to keep the runners warm.






And no that doesn't mean you now need to worry about heat soak or boiling the gas. It's the absolute perfect environment for a carb. Especially an Edelbrock 500 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Most brilliant idea you've had yet. Congrats (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Aug 3 2014, 05:35 PM
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Really? Thanks (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Dr Evil
post Sep 16 2014, 07:35 AM
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So, I have yanked the FI except for the fuel pump assembly which I will get to when I have the other pump in place. I mocked up the manifold and the bolt holes line up exactly opposite to the ones that I used for the FI manifold. However, there are holes at the new locations as well since the manifold came with the heads. No biggie. I took the manifold home and made gaskets and studs to place in the head. Bolts are not gonna work as access is not good under the down tubes. Luckily, I have hesitated to pack certain tools in my shop so I could accomplish this task.

For the fill tube on the tranz I decided to just use a hose to couple the old to the new. No need to weld or source the proper sized tubing, which I dont have time for. The good news is that the new braided stainless tube is terminated in an standard coupling that allows me to shorten the hose and screw the coupling back in. So, that is looking good for fixing my leaky hose on the tranz fill. I need to fill the tranz pan to get a volume of fluid to use. I have been guessing....wrong I think.

I may just get this fucking thing running by move time.

The last thing will be the throttle cable/linkage setup. Not sure how this will go.
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Dr Evil
post Jun 18 2017, 06:59 PM
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Finally, some good news! It is alive! The advice to get an Eddlebrock due to cost and ease of operation turned out to be great advice. I literally installed it, fabbed up a throttle cable set up, and turned the key. The attached video is the first drive without any adjustment, first time out of the barn in 3 yrs, first time driving under its own power since 2013. Changed the crappy, incorrect roller rockers for stock rockers and it runs smooth and steady. Altogether, a much better running engine. I still have the chirp in the tranz when in gear. I have a few thoughts, not sure, I will continue to dig into it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltzLR8AVp6E
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KELTY360
post Jun 18 2017, 08:40 PM
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Sounds awesome! Glad to see it on the road. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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porschetub
post Jun 18 2017, 10:18 PM
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QUOTE(Brett W @ Jun 3 2008, 02:59 PM) *

Don't you love having you knees as the front line of defense in a head on collision?

You have showed your lack of knowledge...safest van ever built try researching ok ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif)
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Chris H.
post Jun 19 2017, 11:06 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) Sweet. Nice to see it moving! It looks like those power glide's need adjustment of the band or bands occasionally. Maybe that will stop the chirping.

Hey are those rims oversized? I just picked up some 15x7's for my Vanagon. Just pulled the TINY engine out of it. No idea what will go in its place yet.
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Dr Evil
post Jun 19 2017, 09:54 PM
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Send me your transmission!
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Chris, care to elaborate on the chirping? Band adjust? There is only one. Yes, custom over sized wheels from Bus Depot when they had them.
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Mark Henry
post Jun 19 2017, 11:57 PM
Post #1676


that's what I do!
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Hope you replaced those fuel lines. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Last time you were here you drove the bus, just before you were going to leave I noticed a slight leak and made you put the bus on the hoist. Had to do a emergency fuel line repair, you would have had a nice bonfire on the way home.
I told you then to replace the fuel lines when you got home...you did right?
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Chris H.
post Jun 20 2017, 08:31 AM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jun 19 2017, 10:54 PM) *

Chris, care to elaborate on the chirping? Band adjust? There is only one. Yes, custom over sized wheels from Bus Depot when they had them.


I know very little about powerglides but I remember hearing this before.. found the doc linked below that specifically describes chatter in reverse and low gear. Take a look and maybe it will help. (Don't worry that the doc downloads immediately...it's a PDF of an OLD manual.

poweglide PDF

See the first page which describes some common issues then skip to page 305.
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Dr Evil
post Jun 20 2017, 06:47 PM
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Rock on, Chris! Thanks.

Mark, I don't recall a leak, but I did put the beast on your lift to inspect before departing and we found that fuel injection line that couldn't handle the high pressure and was sausaged, that your wife drove long distance to get a replacement for. The current system is carbed so 2.5psi, not 70+. All new lines and everything.
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Dr Evil
post Aug 17 2018, 11:47 AM
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Ok, Im back on messing with this Damn Bus. Admins, I would not bitch (like it would matter (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) ) if this thread got moved to the sandbox. Tolerance for no-914 stuff has changed since this thread started in 2008 (a friggen decade!).

Anyway, I had the bus running, did pretty well last year, towed a trailer full of mini bikes and was fully loaded with stuff, freeway, 75mph and passing cars. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) The "rebuilt" powerglide that I bought back in 2013 in a rush to get the bus moving under its own power when I was moving has started messing up with me needing to actively switch the gears. I could re build it, I have another one in a container almost done, but I am asking myself, "WHY?" I do love the corvair engine and the PG trans in the bus. It is kick ass, but I dont live in CA anymore and I only really want to drive it during a few weeks of spring and fall due to no heat and no A/C. Cant see out the window when it is foggy and cant really do anything about it. Sooooo, time for a change.

I have started making payments on a conversion kit to raise a Subaru SVX engine into the beast. I am keeping it automatic, which meant finding an 090 VW auto box for it. That was actually harder than I anticipated and if not for contacts I would not have much of a chance for under $3K+. As I type this, my good friend is driving to SC to pick one up from an elderly gentleman that had rebuilt it a year and a half ago and then his vision went. I got this guys contact from another bus guy I know online. Networking rocks! Price is right, too. So far for engine and trans+ torque converter, I am due to be out $2250. It will be nice to have reliable power, ac and heat.

Yes, I get that this basically turns the bus into a glorified mini van, and me into a pseudo soccer mom, but I dont care. It will still rock.

Now, I am not sure what to do with the corvair powerplant. Sell or store??? Hmm.
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KELTY360
post Aug 17 2018, 02:04 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

SVX engine in a bus rocks! Will the VW AT hold up to the hp and torque? What about the gearing? When I converted the syncro mt in my Westy, I went taller in both 3rd and 4th to take advantage of the power. Very glad i did that.
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