CV axle problems, ...this should be a good one Options

[dbgriffith75]

So I'm trying to remove the CV axles on my '75 so I can tear them down and inspect/clean/repair (if necessary) them. The haynes manual tells me that I should be able to loosen the 4 bolts holding the clamping ring in place, slide the boot back, and remove a snap ring that's holding the axle into the hub.

Okay... problem is, one of the bolts is rounded out. I couldn't really get a good look to be certain, but what's worked for the others is a 6mm allen wrench. I got them all loose on one side, even went so far as to take them out, but I'm not getting any movement on the boot what-so-ever.

But I'm also curious if those bolts are actually allen head as opposed to maybe a torx head? And if this one is rounded out like I suspect, and this is how the CV axle is supposed to be removed, then does anyone have any suggestions on what I might do to remove it? There's not enough room to get a pair of vise grips on it. The only solution I can think of is doubtfully the best way to go- that being that I have a set of easy outs, which would mean drilling through the bolt some and then using one to remove it.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks. You guys (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[ericread]

I ran into a similar situation a few weeks ago. In conclusion I determined that it really wasn't so important to loosen the CV bolts (just delaying the problem until later). Several of the future respondants will advise you to weld stuff to the bolt. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) It probably will work, but not really helpful if you're not a welder. Others will advise you use a dremmel tool to make a notch. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) Still other will advise you to beat the hell out of it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (I think those folks just had unhappy childhoods)!

Anyway, I will be watching with great interest, because I'm going to have to get those off sometime in the future...

Good luck!

[jd74914]

Factory CV joint bolts are 12 point. Don't use a Torx on them. I was able to use vise grips to get some of the rounded ones off my car.

If you break them off it is time for the drill though.

[r_towle]

I think the proper term is called four square.
Its a special VW/Porsche bit for the CV joints.

If you want to take them out of the car, then disassemble them (the right way to do it)
You take out the four bolts at the tranny.
You take off the large nut in the center of the rotor.
After you get it hanging and not attached to the tranny, you need a BFH with a stout block of wood or a brass drift and you hit the large male threaded portion to get it out of the rear hub.
the axle will come out, just gotta hit it right.
The car cannot be on its wheels, and no weight can be put on the hub while the axle is out, it wrecks the bearing.

If the bolts are rounded off inside, use vice grips.
Rich

[roadster fan]

Are you talking about the bolts on the wheel side? I guess you could remove the nut on the hub side and pull the whole axle assembly out to gain access to the bolts on the wheel end. That nut is supposed to be a pain to remove but there are several threads with tips.

As was mentioned above, the stock bolts are twelve point or XZN, not allen. Alot of cars have been switched over to allen heads. Once the head is stripped out you need a way to get a tool on the outside of the bolt.

Good Luck,

Jim

check out this threadCV bolt stripped

[Gint]

Triple square actually.

[dbgriffith75]

you need a BFH with a stout block of wood or a brass drift and you hit the large male threaded portion to get it out of the rear hub.

Hmmm.... tried that once without any luck. That's when I turned to the haynes manual, which in turn led me to believe there was a snap ring to remove. But if I can remove the whole assembly then that's what I'm going to aim for.

Question: When I tried the BFH and block of wood before without success, I thought they might be rusted in place since the car has been sitting for 10 years. Would it hurt anything if I heated the hub with a torch and then broke them loose? I'm just leary of screwing up some bearings or melting the boots. Thanks.

[r_towle]

no heat needed, it will damage the bearing.
You may end up doing that anyways...but not heat.

Hit it harder.

Rich

[PeeGreen 914]

Soak it with penatrant. That will help. On the CV bolts... if you strip one use a standard that is just larger than a 6mm and hammer it in. Then replace that bolt and get the correct tool. I got mine from Snap-on. I don't believe you will find it at Sears.

[Dr. Roger]

<I think the proper term is called four square.>

quick childhood flashback. LOL =-)


second what Mr. Towle says.

[r_towle]

The tool
Pelican parts sells them.

[Spoke]

you need a BFH with a stout block of wood or a brass drift and you hit the large male threaded portion to get it out of the rear hub.

Hmmm.... tried that once without any luck. That's when I turned to the haynes manual, which in turn led me to believe there was a snap ring to remove. But if I can remove the whole assembly then that's what I'm going to aim for.

Question: When I tried the BFH and block of wood before without success, I thought they might be rusted in place since the car has been sitting for 10 years. Would it hurt anything if I heated the hub with a torch and then broke them loose? I'm just leary of screwing up some bearings or melting the boots. Thanks.

I've used a gear puller to loosen the spline from the rear hub. Once it breaks loose, it comes right out w/o further resistance.

[dbgriffith75]

Then replace that bolt and get the correct tool.

That's the thing- I'm trying to avoid buying any tools I don't absolutely need because once the car is done, it's going on the market. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to half ass it here, but why buy a tool I'm only gonna need to use once?

I'll work on getting it broke free at the hub and then once I have it out and have room to work I can get the bolt out. Thanks for the advice- we'll see how it goes.

[PeeGreen 914]

Then replace that bolt and get the correct tool.

That's the thing- I'm trying to avoid buying any tools I don't absolutely need because once the car is done, it's going on the market. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to half ass it here, but why buy a tool I'm only gonna need to use once?

I'll work on getting it broke free at the hub and then once I have it out and have room to work I can get the bolt out. Thanks for the advice- we'll see how it goes.

Because you want to do the right thing and pass a car on with everything done right (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Just give the tool to the new owner.

[dbgriffith75]

Well I've been MIA for a few days- had to get my wisdom teeth pulled on Friday so I've been healing up over the weekend. But now I'm back... in black... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Anyway, you were right towle- I just wasn't hitting it hard enough. Traded up the 3 pounder for the 20 pound sledge and a 4x4 block- a couple of solid whacks and they broke loose. Nearly scared me to death tho I was hitting it so hard I thought I was gonna knock the car right off the jack stands.

Luckily nothing is in need of replacement- it just took a good cleaning and regreasing and it's good to go.

[rjames]

That's the thing- I'm trying to avoid buying any tools I don't absolutely need because once the car is done, it's going on the market. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to half ass it here, but why buy a tool I'm only gonna need to use once?

I think I paid $8.00 for mine at the local VW shop. Buy it, use it, and then throw it in with the car when you sell it. That way the next owner doesn't fuch them up with a hex bit by mistake if he ever needs to remove them.