Rear-ended on Friday in San Diego, can it be saved? Options

[Dr Evil]

Hey Man,
I just went through this and they offered me $4700 for my car and they keep it. With the power of this board I was able to prove its value and got $15.5k and got to keep my car (it was totaled). If I can help, let me know.

[rick 918-S]

I've been very busy and not on the board much. And when I am I'm on for like 5 minutes. I didn't see this post and it looks like it's going south.

1. It will be up to you to prove up your vehicles value. Find Dr evils thread and read it carefully. I don't ahve time to re-type my advise one friend to another.

I still think we need a classic how to thread for this topic.

[tango-52]

UPDATE – Last week the insurance company offered $4900 and they would take the car. I explained (strongly) that I had over $4000 in receipts, copies of which I had provided to their adjuster in the field, as well as the NADA estimates of $7300 to $11000. She said she had never received those from the adjuster. She also stated that they had determined that the car was a total. She asked me to send her copies of my receipts. I did that on Thursday and when I totaled up the receipts, it was about $6100! She called back this morning and said that they had reevaluated the claim. They were willing to give me $7625, I get to keep the car, but it will have a salvage title. They are getting close, as I figure I can get the repairs done for this price, but I am still concerned about the salvage title. What does this mean in the long run? I got the car because I love 914s, not because I was looking for an investment. Any opinions?

[rick 918-S]

UPDATE – Last week the insurance company offered $4900 and they would take the car. I explained (strongly) that I had over $4000 in receipts, copies of which I had provided to their adjuster in the field, as well as the NADA estimates of $7300 to $11000. She said she had never received those from the adjuster. She also stated that they had determined that the car was a total. She asked me to send her copies of my receipts. I did that on Thursday and when I totaled up the receipts, it was about $6100! She called back this morning and said that they had reevaluated the claim. They were willing to give me $7625, I get to keep the car, but it will have a salvage title. They are getting close, as I figure I can get the repairs done for this price, but I am still concerned about the salvage title. What does this mean in the long run? I got the car because I love 914s, not because I was looking for an investment. Any opinions?

1) Did you go out and get estimate for the cost to repair the damage? I can't tell from the photos but it looks like a very nice repair will have it back in shape in no time.

Advise: Tell your company you will think about their offer, then take the time off from work, get the car to a proper 914 saavy repair shop and get a hard number. Then you'll know if their evaluation of the damage is valid.

2) Did they provide you with a copy of their estimate for damage. They need to send you a copy.

Advise: Get one and bring it with you to the repair shop.

Comment: My goal would be to take their offer of $ 7625.00 and then get an estimate in writting that states there will be no supplement. In MN the damage can't exceed 70%. So if the car can be repaired for say... $ 5000.00 they can't total it.

And Ask Kelly what the case law is with regard to a vehicle that is:

"mostly repairable" I think classic cars can exceed this 70% rule because of their rising values. At one point a car that would have totaled at just over 70% could likely increase in value their for changes the rules of the game. Can't remember the details and your state laws could very.

[tango-52]

Thanks for all the input. I think I am going to take the money and get a 2.0L. I have found several ads that are in (even well within) that price range. Since they are agreeing that I get to keep the car, I can then transfer the goodies onto the new vehicle. I just have to make sure the old one doesn't stay around very long or SWMBO will kill me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)

[Jeff Hail]

The damage to the car is a fairly straight forward repair. The direct damage will need to be replaced (rear body panel and floor rear section). Looks the rear floor probably needed attention anyway. The right quarter ( indirect damage) will follow the crowd while the pull is performed and the panel worked during pulling. Square up the deck opening, some repair to the right inner wheelhouse at the tailight housing. The car needs to be pulled obviously to unlock the stress caused by the bound up metal. The rest any competent metal man can repair. One of the things that concerns me is the fit of the targa top to sail panel on the passenger side. Maybe just the photo but I see issues present although maybe not related.

Repair plan: Pull engine and trans. Remove passenger seat and soft trim on the right inner long (passenger compartment) to check for indirect damage. Inspect right rear upper rail and wheelhouse for buckling just behind the suspension console. Jig the car and proceed with preliminary structure pulls. The right inner wheelhouse due to design will tend to bend down behind the tower and the rail/ inner rear long will kick up in front of the trunk bulkhead (shorten). This sounds complicated to the layman but its really not.

The part that will go sideways is the insurance company will most likely try to total the car because it is older, parts availability and the physical damage rep will attempt to document it away.

Get your ducks in order. Start compiling comps (comparable car ads) and get your receipts together NOW.

If the insurance company uses NADA or Bluebook to determine the actual cash value you can dispute it because they do not represent real tangible cars for sale. California Department of Insurance Regulations require the insurance company to find a comparable vehicle (Like ,Kind and Quality) to yours. If they use CCC (Certified Collateral Corp) they will search real cars for sale from comps/ trade magazines/ private party based on a 50 mile+ radius of your zip code. Being a 914 they will probably find 2 vehicles on average. This can also be disputed if the condition of the cars inspected do not match your vehicles condition resulting in an expanded search radius by CCC. Another valuation service insurance companies use is VVS (Vehicle Valuation Services). VVS is know to bring higher values than the mentioned three

I noticed you are in California. If the insurance company gives you a hard time on the condition rating or betterment/depreciation and brings up any rust issues you can stop them in their tracks by countering with "so you are acknowledging diminished value"! Believe me this is any adjusters worst nightmare in Cali. 99% of the time it will stop there.

If you know what your car is worth to you and they offer a fair market value consider walking way with retention of salvage finding another car and transfering parts. If the car has rust issues and is just a driver consider the salvage side due to resale value and headaches. If the car is in good shape with minor old car issues fight like hell and maybe have an independant appraiser take a look for a hundred and a half to get a neutral party value. After all if the car is insured for actual cash value you want to maximize your coverage for settlement. Also check you policy most have an appraisel clause which is binding.

Hope this helps.