Steve's unending Progress thread, Air compressor setup recommendations Options

[stephenaki]

Chris,
Thanks for the info; as for the heads, from what I understand, they were machined to accept the larger cylinder and pistons but no other changes were made to either of the valves.

The cam is the stock original cam for the 1.7 motor; the crank and pistons are 2.0 and balanced.

Maybe the option is to just replace the existing carbs with the 1.7 FI and then maybe rebuild the existing tranny. #1 tends to be a bit tricky and #5 has been giving me some problems as of late.

I am heading over to a local guy here near Stuttgart that caries used 914 parts to see what he has. If I can find the side shift tranny et al. for a reasonable price I may pick it up.

The larger question is when to start; I am still trying to figure out where the Army is sending me next and have a job lined up to stay here in Stuttgart but that may change.

[stephenaki]

In an effort to get the car running SMOOTHLY I decided to rebuild the pedal cluster as that was causing some issues with the motor running at high rpms.

I used Erics write up to do the job and all was well until today; I had not removed the brake light indicator switch when I initially disassembled the cluster so I took it off this morning. Boy was that sucker dirty! OK, time to clean it up; the goal was to get the rebuilt cluster in today and everything adjusted so I would have the car this coming week. It's supposed to snow again so I can't ride the bike in.

Well, some days your the hammer and some days your the nail. I was the nail today (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) ...again. My wife pointed out that I was usually the nail when it came to this car. I had dropped the switch in the sink and the metal tail on the bottom of the switch broke right off! Dangit!

Well, nothing I can do about, so I ordered a new switch, they ain't cheap, and went out to the garage and cleaned the area up in preparation for the eventual installation of the cluster. Just another day in my ongoing saga with this car, eventually the entire car will be brand new! Guess I'll go work on my MBA paper the rest of the day.

[stephenaki]

OK, so I got in the brake light indicator switch. Will get that installed along with the pedal cluster this weekend I hope. I was in Vicenza all last week so wasn't able to get to it. Now, next question for the brain trust, Fuel Injection.

I have a line on a 1.7 FI system but I have some questions since my main experience is with carbs and British vehicles that also ran carbs.

Distributor. I am pretty sure I have the original dizzy but the vacuum advance is no longer present since it was transferred to carbs and a petronix ignitor was dropped in. So, I understand that I will need the vacuum advance component and a set of 'trigger' points. Will the trigger points work with the petronix or do I need to convert back to the old points set up to run the FI?

What I want is to understand what I will need and make sure I have all the components before I replace the carbs for the FI system. Is there a write up anywhere on how the FI system works and how to convert back to the old system?

[Mr Pharmacist]

I'm afraid i cant help you with the petronix question (though i look forward to hearing the answer as i was wondering the same myself)

This is a good article for starters on the FI system:

http://www.rennlist.com/techarticles/djetronicfuel.htm

[Katmanken]

The distributor runs the igniton system in the top of the dizzy, and the trigger points in the bottom of the dizzy. The ignition system is advanced/retarded by centripital weights and vaccuum, and needs to be in place for the fuel injection. The trigger points control the injection of fuel, and are not connected to the advance/retard mechanism required by the ignition system. They open and close as the dizzy shaft rotates to squirt fuel.

The trigger points control the squirts of fuel and they are not timed to squirt precisely as the valves open and close, they merely squirt into the intake so that the fuel is peresent when the intake valve opens.

Attached is a schematic of the 1.7 EFI parts and sensors. You will need all the stuff in the schematic the black center manifold and grey manifold pipes, the air cleaner and hoses, and a high pressure fuel pump. Probably some more stuff but that is a quick list.

Hope this helps.

Ken

[stephenaki]

Hope this helps.

Ken

Ken,
Thanks, it does help. Hopefully someone has an answer on the petronix question of course, I may just have to figure it out once I get all the parts and pieces in.

[stephenaki]

I'm afraid i cant help you with the petronix question (though i look forward to hearing the answer as i was wondering the same myself)

This is a good article for starters on the FI system:

http://www.rennlist.com/techarticles/djetronicfuel.htm

I found the article earlier doing a google search, should definitely come in handy while I wrap my head around the FI system, thanks.

[underthetire]

Sounds like you have a 009 or 050 dizzy, you will need the stock one with the injector trigger points at the bottom of the can. The pertronix will work very well with the D-jet, since the Djet does not use that for the FI.

[stephenaki]

Sounds like you have a 009 or 050 dizzy, you will need the stock one with the injector trigger points at the bottom of the can. The pertronix will work very well with the D-jet, since the Djet does not use that for the FI.

hmm, that doesn't look anything like the dizzy currently on the car!

[Katmanken]

Here's a 1.7 dizzy.

It has a tall can to hold the trigger points in the bottom and the igniton stuff in the top.

Pertronix will work great. But, the fuel injection requires a special ignition curve to work properly and that is why the ignition parts include the pivoting weights 33 and vacuum can 13.

[stephenaki]

Here's a 1.7 dizzy.

It has a tall can to hold the trigger points in the bottom and the igniton stuff in the top.

Pertronix will work great. But, the fuel injection requires a special ignition curve to work properly and that is why the ignition parts include the pivoting weights 33 and vacuum can 13.

Thanks.

[stephenaki]

Well, after procrastinating and some other things like schoolwork and regular work, I finally got off my ass and put the pedal cluster back in the car. I'm not sure which was the bigger PIA taking it out or putting it back in. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

I still need to adjust clutch play and the accelerator cable then make sure the brakes are good to go; will do that next weekend. I should have had this done yesterday but I decided to go riding in the Schwarzwald (black forest) with some other buddies of mine. We did about 200 miles through the area and hit everything from 60 degree temps to 35 degrees and 4 feet of snow still on the sides of the road. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

My back end tried to highside me on a decent down a hairpin; I think she hit some black ice. Had to throw my food down like I was dirt trackin to keep from going down. Scared the bejeebus out of me! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/yikes.gif)

Next project, fix the damn exhaust leak!!!! Then make sure the heater is working for the next winter.

[rick 918-S]

Your car has come along way! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[stephenaki]

OK, friggin Murphy strikes again!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

So, get the initial clutch cable adjustment done, put the pedal board back in, adjust the throttle cable, now lets start her.

She's been sitting for a bit but she starts, gotta rev her to warm her up but she is running. So, as I sit there suddenly there is a loud BANG!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

And she sounds very, very strange, not good, not good at all. OK, look around the underside, in the engine bay...still (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) So, off I go to get the camera and record the sound more than anything to post for insight from the collective expertise of the group. Well after a bit of recording I go back to the engine bay, hey, what the hell? The spot marked 2 on the tin is missing something, yup the damn #2 plug basically blew out of the motor!

OK, maybe it shook itself loose, lets see if we can put her back in, did I mention trying to put a plug back into a cramped space is a PIA? So I get it started, and start to tighten it, so far so good....damn! Yep, threads are stripped.

Before I get into my options, some history, all the plugs are the same size except the #2 plug, it is larger. I was under the assumption that the PO stripped it before and hand it re-threaded to a larger plug, is this the case or is this the way it is supposed to be?

So now, what are my options? Take the head in and get it machined and fixed to allow a new plug or is it toast and I need to get new heads entirely? Thoughts from the collective? My German neighbor suggested dynamite... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[tat2dphreak]

depends... I'd have a machinist check it out and see if it can be properly repaired. if not, then I'd say new heads are in your future. sounds like it may have been time-serted once already, may not be wise to do it again

[rick 918-S]

A good machinist can weld and redrill and tap the hole to the correct size plug.

[stephenaki]

Well gents, thanks. After I got over the initial shock I began to investigate what you were talking about. I will drop the motor tomorrow so I can pull the head and take it over to a machinist who is almost literally next door to me. Hopefully it can be saved. The worst part is some corrosion and rust is forming because I haven't been able to clean her from my rides to work this winter! I'm gonna have to figure something to get all the crap cleaned up. Hopefully this is just another minor bump on the road to restoration.

Annoying but fixable. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[Elliot Cannon]

I've use a helicoil to fix stripped spark plug holes and it worked fine. Lasted 200,000miles in a type I.

[stephenaki]

OK, I got the car up, motor down, still trying to get the motor past the CV joints. Quick question; can I remove the joints to replace the boot and flange without pulling the entire axle assembly out? I can't find anything that mentions this just info on removing it after the whole assembly is out.

[stephenaki]

OK, got the motor out and the head off. Initial inspection shows no damage to the cylinders, pistons or head itself. Looks like I will just need to have the spark plug hole fixed. I will take it to the machinist on Tuesday. In the meantime, I have some other things that I will work on while the motor is out.