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> Steve's unending Progress thread, Air compressor setup recommendations
Katmanken
post Jul 7 2008, 07:50 PM
Post #21


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Buy a new one- dstributor gears are cheep. They might even be a beetle part.
Parts book says p/n 111.105.223- Driving gear- same for all years

You have to pull the old gear off to get the old bearings off the crank. The removal can involve heating, a puller and a little cussing. Or a big ass press.

Ken
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stephenaki
post Jul 8 2008, 01:06 AM
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QUOTE

Someone will answer your questions soon. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

List the parts you need. I'm sure I don't have much but there are alot of guys here that do.


OK, in order to do the proper conversion that Jake outlines I am in need of the following items.

2.0 Crank
2.0 connecting rods

I found a set of AA 94mm piston cylinder set so all I need to fully convert this sucker is the crank and connecting rods. If anyone has them please let me know and how much with shipping of course. I would rather do a proper conversion than just a half assed job.

The remaining items, bearings etc, I can get easy once I do the requisite measurements on the crank, etc.
I'll be standing by for any assistance you all can give me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Smitty911
post Jul 8 2008, 09:58 PM
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QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jul 8 2008, 12:06 AM) *

QUOTE

Someone will answer your questions soon. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

List the parts you need. I'm sure I don't have much but there are alot of guys here that do.


OK, in order to do the proper conversion that Jake outlines I am in need of the following items.

2.0 Crank
2.0 connecting rods

I found a set of AA 94mm piston cylinder set so all I need to fully convert this sucker is the crank and connecting rods. If anyone has them please let me know and how much with shipping of course. I would rather do a proper conversion than just a half assed job.

The remaining items, bearings etc, I can get easy once I do the requisite measurements on the crank, etc.
I'll be standing by for any assistance you all can give me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


http://dprmachine.com/Html%20Files/cranks_type_4a.htm

Here is a place in Santa Ana that has 2.0 cranks and connecting rods. There about 10 miles away from me.

Smitty
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stephenaki
post Jul 9 2008, 01:00 AM
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QUOTE(Smitty911 @ Jul 8 2008, 07:58 PM) *


http://dprmachine.com/Html%20Files/cranks_type_4a.htm

Here is a place in Santa Ana that has 2.0 cranks and connecting rods. There about 10 miles away from me.

Smitty


Thanks, pretty reasonable price for the stock stuff, any experience with them at all?
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stephenaki
post Jul 9 2008, 02:06 AM
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OK, edumacate me everyone. I looked at the site that Smitty sent me and on the connecting rods there were two options, stock 2.0 and balanced 2.0. What is the difference and, if I just get a stock 2.0 crank, which set of connecting rods is better? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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stephenaki
post Jul 13 2008, 03:28 PM
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Two things to update today; first is status of crank and connecting rods, second is did some cleaning up of the crankcase and heads.

I called the guys in Santa Ana that Smitty provided the website to and then emailed them requesting a total quote for the crank, a set of connecting rods and shipping. Haven't gotten anything yet; Smitty, I may be hitting you up to go and get what I need from them and arrange to pay you instead.

I took the crankcase and heads over to post today to clean them up and planned on removing the valves and springs to inspect the head further. Didn't get to the valve removal, ran out of time. I did get a good amount of the crankcase cleaned up but still have more to go. The cooling fins are a bit rough but not unserviceable. Cleane quite a lot of gunk off the case halves but sill have more to go. Also got a basic cleaning done on the heads and hope to pull the valves off this week.

I did notice on one of the exhaust manifolds that I was missing a set of studs and one of those holes already had evidence of a helicoil in it. The other hole was completely baren so will need a new stud put in. No problem, I will do that before I re-assemble the engine.

I did a search on media blasting for the case and heads and couldn't find much as most of the posts were on media blasting the car shell. I know that Andy is not a big fan of media blasting, anyone else have any experience? I want to make sure the heads and case are clean enough to eat off of and all the gunk is gone completely and, the solvent tank isn't completely cutting it. Feedback please, thanks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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stephenaki
post Jul 20 2008, 09:44 AM
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OK, so after doing some studying yesterday morning I headed out for the autocraft shop to work on the cylinder heads. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

The goal was to finish the dismantle and clean up the heads and valves for inspection. First problem, none of the valve compressors they had worked for the cylinder! They didn't have a pneumatic one like I used back state side so after about an hour of screwing around I wound up using a big ass "C" clamp and socket to compress the valve then shake the shit out if to get the keepers to fall off. Typical Army solution to a lack of proper tools. It worked. And for those that are wondering, here is a picture of my solution.
(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG2534.jpg)

Needless to say I screwed around trying to get the spring compressors to work before I did the "C" clamp solution so only got a couple of valve springs and keepers off. I had to go to Ikea with the wife to get some other things so didn't get to stay as long as I wanted too.

So, today, I finished the job. Again, had to do some studying first for my exam. That's always fun translating sentences into Sie, du and Ihr form then making them questions and imperatives in each form. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

I went back to the autocraft shop around noon and immediately got a socket and "C" clamp to finish the job. So got all the springs and keepers off but none of the valves would come out. Feel around the top and there was an edge built up of metal, not carbon. Well, no sandpaper so I took a fine file and carefully worked off all the edges. Had to do this to every valve.

After about 3 hours of work I got all the valves our and cleaned up and also cleaned up the heads a bit. As you can see by the pictures, no cracks in the heads, this a good thing! They will still need a valve job though just for GP.
(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG2536.jpg)
(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG2539.jpg)
(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG2538.jpg)
(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG2545.jpg)

I don't have any good pictures of the valves but they are in good shape overall and can be re-used. The biggest issue is on one of the heads the valve guide on the bottom was flat for a lack of a better description. If you look closely at the picture you will see what I mean.
(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG2541.jpg)

So, does this mean I will need to replace the guides on this sucker? my assumption is yes but I would like some more experienced input on this. Only one head had this problem, the other head was fine. Play in the valves was very minimal from what I could feel but I didn't have a dial indicator to double check this.

I head back this week after my exam to finish cleaning the crankcase and, when all the Germans come back from vacation, will take the heads and valve's in for cleaning up and a valve job and the crankcase in to be checked for alignment. Will probably take the tin in this week as well and get it cleaned up. I am going to cheap out on the tin and paint it myself once it is completely cleaned and rust treated. When I do the body off restoration I will have it powder coated.

I did get my crankshaft and connecting rods ordered thanks to Smitty's link to the place in California. Once those parts come in I will take everything to get balanced. Slowly making progress; the biggest pain is waiting for parts because even though you can find them here in Deutschland, it is cheaper to buy and ship them from the states. Go figure. Gotta do more studying. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)
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hcdmueller
post Jul 20 2008, 06:17 PM
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?????????????
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Glad to see you are making progress. I feel your pain on getting parts. I have spent a lot of time searching for parts over here with very little success. The parts are here but they are usually twice the price at best.

I also feel your pain on getting work done here. I have actually sent stuff back to the states for machine work and gotten it back faster and cheaper than I would here.

I should have mine up and running soon. I hope yours goes well too.
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r_towle
post Jul 20 2008, 08:12 PM
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To answer your question regarding the valve guides. First, assume they need to be replaced and go from there to prove that assumption wrong.

They all wear out.
Put each valve in its guide and measure the side to side play at the top of the valve stem. The spec and the procedure are in the haynes manual and the shop manual....just read...

The heads may have cracks that you cannot see.
Clean the combustion chamber much better...till there is no carbon left.
If you can find a place to heat them up, great...do that...
If you can get them to 300-400 degrees, the cracks may get large enough to see...then once cool, wipe with ink...ink is super thin and seaps into the crack really well.

Rich
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stephenaki
post Jul 21 2008, 02:12 AM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Jul 20 2008, 06:12 PM) *

To answer your question regarding the valve guides. First, assume they need to be replaced and go from there to prove that assumption wrong.

They all wear out.
Put each valve in its guide and measure the side to side play at the top of the valve stem. The spec and the procedure are in the haynes manual and the shop manual....just read...

The heads may have cracks that you cannot see.
Clean the combustion chamber much better...till there is no carbon left.
If you can find a place to heat them up, great...do that...
If you can get them to 300-400 degrees, the cracks may get large enough to see...then once cool, wipe with ink...ink is super thin and seaps into the crack really well.

Rich

I don't think the autocraft shop has a dial indicator but I plan on checking. I need to get a new scotch pad to clean up the heads a bit more, this weekend was the first cleaning.

I will have Christoph do a better check for cracks as I don't have the ability to heat up the head as you recommend. Now, if the valves measure within tollerance the question is do the two guides on the one head have to be changed regardless based on one side being kinda flat.
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Smitty911
post Jul 21 2008, 02:34 PM
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QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jul 21 2008, 01:12 AM) *

QUOTE(r_towle @ Jul 20 2008, 06:12 PM) *

To answer your question regarding the valve guides. First, assume they need to be replaced and go from there to prove that assumption wrong.

They all wear out.
Put each valve in its guide and measure the side to side play at the top of the valve stem. The spec and the procedure are in the haynes manual and the shop manual....just read...

The heads may have cracks that you cannot see.
Clean the combustion chamber much better...till there is no carbon left.
If you can find a place to heat them up, great...do that...
If you can get them to 300-400 degrees, the cracks may get large enough to see...then once cool, wipe with ink...ink is super thin and seaps into the crack really well.

Rich

I don't think the autocraft shop has a dial indicator but I plan on checking. I need to get a new scotch pad to clean up the heads a bit more, this weekend was the first cleaning.

I will have Christoph do a better check for cracks as I don't have the ability to heat up the head as you recommend. Now, if the valves measure within tollerance the question is do the two guides on the one head have to be changed regardless based on one side being kinda flat.



Forget the ink, if your in an Aircraft Shop or have one nearby ANY of the inspectors should have some Liqued Penetrant. Ask them to check your heads or borrow it. For Aluminum you shouldn't need to heat them up if you use a level I pen. It's either BLUE or RED. You can also ask a Welder for some except you may have to ahh an Explitive to the Blue or Red word. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Smitty
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stephenaki
post Aug 9 2008, 09:19 AM
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Well, the crankshaft and rods came in last week Tuesday however, I was on a plane to Tel Aviv, Israel on Wednesday and just got back today. Needless to say I haven't don't anything yet with the engine. I am hoping to drop off the parts to be balanced this week as Christoph should be back from vacation. Will have him order the bearings since their cost is negligible.

If my luck holds I'll have everything back by the end of the month and start re-assembly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) We shall see what the future brings. By the way, Israel, lot like southern California in its terrain except they speak Hebrew. Tel Aviv was similar to NY City in that they didn't seem to sleep there, I got up at 0200 this morning to take an early morning flight and there were all kinds of people out and about. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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ThinAir
post Aug 9 2008, 04:36 PM
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This is a great thread. I really appreciate all the photos and descriptions of what you are finding.

Can you post a link to the article on Jake's site that you've mentioned? I seem to have a collection of 1.7s that could be candidates for 2.0 conversions. I'm really glad to know about DPR since I have a 2.0 with a frozen rod bearing (don't ask) and I know that when I eventually rebuild this engine I'll need their services.
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stephenaki
post Sep 10 2008, 01:15 PM
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QUOTE(ThinAir @ Aug 9 2008, 02:36 PM) *

This is a great thread. I really appreciate all the photos and descriptions of what you are finding.

Can you post a link to the article on Jake's site that you've mentioned? I seem to have a collection of 1.7s that could be candidates for 2.0 conversions. I'm really glad to know about DPR since I have a 2.0 with a frozen rod bearing (don't ask) and I know that when I eventually rebuild this engine I'll need their services.


Sorry it took me so long to respond but I have been a bit busy at work as of late and not exactly in country. The link is:

http://forums.aircooledtechnology.com/showthread.php?t=2328

you may have to sign up for a free membership to view the forums but he has a lot of great info there.

On a different note, the engine component parts were sent for balancing last week and should be ready. I ordered the gaskets, seals, etc from Jake and they are on the way. Unfortunately, the rebuild is now on hold as I got told this afternoon to pack my stuff cause I'm heading to a country that shall remain un-named to stand a team up to do??? Needless to say I will be gone until mid-October if not longer. Just when I thought I was making progress!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

I had managed to avoid a third trip to Israel but by doing so got tagged with this new mission. Son of a bitch! I am gonna get a quote from Christoph to see how much he'll charge me if I just give him the rest of the parts and let him finish the rebuild and install the engine. I head out this Sunday so need to make some quick arrangements as my wife is currently stateside and my middle son, he's 19, is here. He gets to live alone for a couple of weeks until my wife gets back.
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stephenaki
post Nov 13 2008, 07:09 AM
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OK, I'm back from my adventures in the Republic of Georgia. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Did you know that a two lane road can fit 4 cars abreast if you really try? I thought Italians were crazy drivers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

I got back this past Friday and, after some honey do's, started to take stock of what I have to to on the engine. I need to pick up some lubricants and get the appropriate assembly chemicals together before I can start. Looks like Christoph ordered me a set of gaskets and seals so now I have two sets.

Took all the tin and pushrod tubes to the powder coater for blasting, metal straightening and powder coating. Doing the tin in Ferarri red! Hope to re-assemble the heads this week once I can find someone with a decent valve spring compressor, may have to buy one as the 'C' clamp and socket solution works great getting the springs off but not so well getting them back on.

I wanted to start this weekend but the wife wants to go to a crystal factory sale near Ansbach and then we are driving over to the Czech Republic for the day so I won't get anything done this weekend.

As I start down the engine re-assembly road, any advice, tips or tricks that will make this job a bit easier? I really miss NAPA, O'Reily's, Autozone, etc.
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stephenaki
post Dec 9 2008, 06:59 AM
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OK, Tin's back along with the fan housing and push tubes from the powder coater. Yes I know, need pics, will try to get and post some this weekend. I am hoping the Crankcase and rod bearings will be in tomorrow. If everything is in I can finish putting the crankshaft back together this week and hopefully start motor assembly this Sunday.

I would do it on Saturday but we are hosting a party at the house so I have to cook and clean. It's a very non-traditional Christmas with Ceviche, Kalua pig and Chook. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif) That's what you get from half a Chinaman raised in Hawaii. Hope everyone has a great Christmas and maybe I'll get the motor done before then! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/santa_smiley.gif)
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stephenaki
post Dec 15 2008, 07:09 AM
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OK, I think my car has a curse on it or something to that effect. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) I called Christoph this morning, bearings are in...WOOHOO! He wants me to bring a connecting rod with me so we can test fit the rod bearings as well, no problem. Take off at ten, swing by the house, pick up the connecting rod and wife and off we go.

Get to Dotternhausen and walk into the shop; for those that are interested, his website is www.boxmot.de, ist nur auf Deutsch.

Christoph pulls out the crank bearings and we slide them on...perfect! He yells for Udo to undo the nuts on the connecting rod then wanders off while Udo takes a rod bearing and puts it in...ok, tries to put it in. NOPE (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

So he measures the inside of the connecting rod assembled, 52, measures the bearings put together 55. Holy shiessa! Thats waaaaaaaaaay off! Well the next 30 minutes are spent trying to figure out what happened but when it is all said and done the crank and connecting rod are at Christoph's place so he can make sure the next set of bearings are the right fit. Damnit, so close!.

On a positive note, I borrowed a metric tap and die set from the autocraft shop and cleaned up all the holes and studs. Need to finish cleaning the left half of the case and then will stick it into a platic bag to keep the dust off of it. Had the boy clean all the studs before I put them back on and had him cleaning the impeller as well. I had hoped that I could have the engine reassembled before the 24th but that I think is now out the window. Good thing my wife is understanding, for that matter good thing I am otherwise Christoph would have gotten an ear full. Oh well, stuff happens, no sense getting too worked up about it cause it won't change it.

Stay tuned for more misadventures of the 914 chronicles (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)
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Dave_Darling
post Dec 15 2008, 09:41 AM
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Sounds like you got 1.7/1.8 bearings instead of the 2.0 ones...

--DD
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stephenaki
post Dec 15 2008, 12:39 PM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Dec 15 2008, 07:41 AM) *

Sounds like you got 1.7/1.8 bearings instead of the 2.0 ones...

--DD

Dave,
Yep, that would be exactly the problem. I wrote the part number on my hand then cross referenced it with the AA catalog and that is exactly what popped up. Right size, wrong rod. Not sure if I wasn't clear with Christoph that I had 2.0 rods or if the guy he place the order with didn't understand it. Regardless, she ain't getting put together before Christmas as the French say, "Say la vie."

I'll just clean up some of the other parts while I wait for the correct bearings...oh yeah and I gotta drink the beer I have left from my party! Andecks Doppel Bock, 7.1% alcohol content it kicks ass! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) I'll definitely miss the beer when I leave Germany. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)
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stephenaki
post Jan 8 2009, 09:45 AM
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Called Christoph today, again I need to reiterate my hypothesis that my car is cursed, he was able to get 2 connecting rod bearings in the right size but was having trouble finding 2 more. Needless to say, I still can't put my damn motor back together yet! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

So, he is still looking and I sent a couple of emails out and finally found a set at PP; their web-page said they had 4 sets of 2.0L (.25) German bearings in stock and I got an email stating they would ship on Monday. I'm not going to believe it until I get the notification that they actually shipped. So much for my weekend plans to do some final cleaning and then start assembly.

I may yet do the cleaning and do an inventory of parts to make sure I have everything I need then lay it out for assembly. Problem I will run into is I am taking my son skiing end of next week and when I get back we roll into a big exercise that will keep me busy for the next couple of weeks. It is looking now like February before I get the car up and running.
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