Steve's unending Progress thread, Air compressor setup recommendations Options

[shuie]

The Tangerine spherical bushing is really nice.

FWIW, you can also sleeve the side shift rod with a piece of tubing that matches the OD of the stock tailshift rod (or just cut a section from the TS shift rod since you are not using it anymore) and use the regular tailshift bushing at the firewall instead of the conversion bushing.

[Dave_Darling]

Linkage cover at firewall - Yes, same for tail and sideshift I assume

Not the same. The stuff they cover is shaped differently, so the cover is shaped differently. The bad news is that the flange on the early firewall will not fit the rubber boot over the later cover. I'm not sure how people hold the cover onto the early firewall...

Also saw a note that I will need to change one of the heat exchanger units to an older model? Can someone please clarify?

That information is incorrect. You can use your heat exchangers.

You will need to change the piece that goes under the exchangers, though. It bolts to the sump on one side, and to the heat exchanger on the other side. The left side version is different on the tailshifters versus the sideshifters, in order to provide clearance for how the SS linkage moves. It's known as a "warm air guide". You may be able to find one under that name.

--DD

[r_towle]

you need to change one of the heat shields that attaches to the engine and heat exchanger on the drivers side to clear the shifter rod.
It comes from a 72 or later car....

I may have missed one thing.
Engine bar..check
Engine mount brackets (bolt to engine, underneath fan shroud)
Engine rubber mounts, check (should be new)
engine mounts, bar to body...check.

So, make sure you have the small special brackets that get bolted to the motor...

Rich

[stephenaki]

Thanks Dave and Rich for the input. I have all the brackets that go from the bar to the motor. I actually pulled the bar off of a 1.8 so grabbed the 'little bits' that went with it.

I couldn't tell what the difference was on the firewall cover though. So, does anyone have a picture of the two covers next to each other for comparison and the piece of the exchanger shield that is different?

[Dave_Darling]

The warm air guides:


Tail-shift version, the "bump" goes underneath the shift rod:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-10138-1367104301_thumb.jpg)







Side-shift version, the "bump" goes up and over the shift rod:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.autoatlanta.com-121-1382402348.1.jpg)





Shift coupler boot:


Side-shift version. The plastic part of the cover is a thicker rectangle, not as thin and squished as the early version:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.pelicanparts.com-121-1382402349.2.jpg)

Here is where the cover hooks onto the firewall:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.pelicanparts.com-121-1382402349.3.JPG)



Tail-shift version. The plastic part of the cover is very oblong:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.pelicanparts.com-121-1382409422.1.JPG)

And here is where the TS version hooks to the chassis:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-7300-1329601855.jpg)



--DD

[r_towle]

Old is oval, new is round
I just hang it on there to protect the coupler from crud.
No solutions I have seen.

[zig-n-zag]

An article was written in Up-Fixin der Porsche, volume 9 page 44 on

side-shifter conversion and covered the early to late boot problem.

Basically, you grind some of the lip off around where the shift rod

sticks out from the firewall and fabricate a plate to fit the new boot.

Space the plate away from the firewall with a couple washers.

[mepstein]

Steve - sent you pm. Mark

[stephenaki]

Alles klar! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) My confusion came in as I was clearly NOT looking at the correct picture comparison. I think I was having a brain fart (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . So, as I smack myself around a bit and look at the pictures, the little stubby ball that jets out to the left will go away and I will have to figure out a method to hold the new cover in place. Already percolating ideas. I'm acually excited about this project as it will be a lot of fun to dive into this! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) Yeah, some people would say I ain't right in the head. Then again, is anyone who buys this car and on this forum completely right in the head? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[stephenaki]

OK, so I did some troubleshooting on the car today. First issue dead battery and it won't hold a charge. So, I took it back to Pep Boys and they exchanged it. Install, try to crank, nothing. Check spark, none, check spark at coil, none.

Dizzy and rotor are a bit worn but the plug wires are new. So, off to O'Reilly's to get a new coil, cap and rotor. Replace, try to start...nothing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

She is getting fuel so that is not the issue, anyone got an thoughts? I haven't re-checked for spark, I'll do that in the morning; anything else I need to be looking at other than making sure all my ground connections are solid?

[Dave_Darling]

Try to crank, nothing. Says significant electrical connection problem to me. Time to re-check the connections at the battery, at the starter, at the ignition switch, and very especially the grounds.

--DD

[stephenaki]

Try to crank, nothing. Says significant electrical connection problem to me. Time to re-check the connections at the battery, at the starter, at the ignition switch, and very especially the grounds.

--DD

I will start down that road again this morning and check all the connections. It is very fustrating . I need to track down the issue with the light anyway.

[stephenaki]

WOOHOO! I have spark! And, she almost started... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

So I took the time to find and check all the ground connections. I had to replace the bolt for the transmission ground strap as the bolt was stripped and the connection loose. Cleaned up the starter connections as well. Attach my in-line spark tester...no spark, dang. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

OK, trace the wires to the coil and dizzy, check continuity, they are good, clean up the connections, try again...no spark.

Check relay board, hmm (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) let's take it off and thoroughly clean it! Put it back on, secure all connections, crank... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) SPARK!! Next, phase, disconnect tester and reconnect the plug wire and lets see if I can get her to start up. She almost started but not quite. After a few cranks it stopped cranking and all I got was a click. Soooo, should I replace the power supply relay? Would this be a potential problem? The two relay's I have on the board, are the power supply and the fuel pump. The other two slots are empty. As I have stated before, I suck at electrical troubleshooting so could use some suggestions. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) As it is, I will need to order a relay for the heater blower as it isn't there. Probably why the blower didn't work to begin with! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[stephenaki]

Ya know...sometimes I wonder about our cars. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) In my effort to figure out why the stupid left side rear light was staying on I went in search of a diagram for the wire hookups. Not the wiring diagram, I got that but the actual connections to the light.

As I searched I came across a preview that said something to the effect of, 'turn signal left on drain's battery after ignition key is removed...' Wait, what??? Oh shit. Go back out to the car, open the door...flip the turn signal up...well, I feel like a dumbass! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Needless to say, that issue is resolved. Of course, in the process of trying to figure it out, both taillight assemblies broke on me as I pulled them out. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) So I'm looking for a new set of tail light assemblies with lenses now.

I also took the fuel pump relay and swapped it with the power relay, yup, need new relays. Gonna order those. She is still not quite starting yet, but at least I am closer. I'll try to tackle it this week to see if I can get her to start. The plugs are new so I know that isn't the problem.

[stephenaki]

Well, we had guest speakers all day yesterday for my students so I left early and dropped off the Volvo at the dealer, it is creaking, and then went home and did some work on the Teener.

I finally broke down and picked up a remote starter, compresson tester and new timing light with advance. Yeah, I know, I should have already had these things. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

I decided to pull the dizzy and start from scratch so as to line everything up properly. So, first order of business, pull the #1 plug and screw in the compression tester. Next, hook up the remote starter...not an easy damn task with the new starter! Finally, pull the dizzy.

Time to find TDC, using the remote starter and the compression tester made it a hell of a lot easier! Had I gotten these items before it probably would have saved me a lot of headaches early on while I was in Germany. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I re-marked TDC on the fan with white, it was already marked in red but much harder to see. Before I did this though, I crawled under the car to feel for the notch in the flywheel that should correspond to TDC on the fan. Yup, got it and the notch where the dizzy goes is also pointing in the correct direction. Looking good so far.

Now, time to re-install the dizzy, line up the rotor with the mark on the housing, check to make sure it lines up with a plug...fuck with it for the next 30 minutes trying to get it in and lined up properly! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) I finally got it in and lined up properly after a bit though. Unfortunately, at this point I needed to head off to my welding class so didn't get much further.

Prior to putting the dizzy cap back on, I wrapped new white electrical tape around each tower so I can properly mark the firing order. Now, after some checking, firing order rotating clockwise is 1,4,3,2; clockwise direction is with me standing behind the car. Unless anyone says differently this is how I will proceed.

I will mark the cap accordingly but before I hook the wires up, I plan on running compression tests on each cylinder first. Then I'll hook up the wires and see if we can get her to crank. I'm hoping that re-setting everything to baseline will do the trick, if she starts then I'll work on re-timing the motor and then balance the carbs. Wish me luck, i'm gonna need it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[stephenaki]

So, put the car up to adjust valve's based on the Cap'ns methodology. Pull the cover for #3 and 4...SHIT. We got oil coming out big time! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) Correct me if I'm wrong but, it shouldn't do this right? I recall having the covers off before to adjust valves and not have friggin oil spewing out the #4 pushtube. Anyone ever experience this? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

Not spewing, but there can be some leaking. If the tail of the car is up, there is something odd for the #4 cylinder's pushrod tube to be spewing, because #1 and #3 would both be lower than #4.

--DD

[stephenaki]

Not spewing, but there can be some leaking. If the tail of the car is up, there is something odd for the #4 cylinder's pushrod tube to be spewing, because #1 and #3 would both be lower than #4.

--DD

I had nothing come out of the other side. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Needless to say I re-checked and re-adjusted the valves then put her back together. So I figured I'd try to fire her up after everything I have done.

She almost caught then gave up. I checked spark again, dangit! I ain't got no spark again! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) I re-checked all the connections, they are solid, I'm at a complete loss. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Wires are new
Coil is new
Cap and rotor are new
Dizzy was re-aligned with TDC
Relay's are new

What the hell am I missing? She is turning over so power is getting to the solenoid and starter, anyone got any suggestions??? This is frustrating the shit out of me!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

Do you have power to the coil?
Are your points opening and closing?
Do they provide a ground to the coil and then disconnect it?

Back to basics...

--DD

[stephenaki]

Do you have power to the coil?
Are your points opening and closing?
Do they provide a ground to the coil and then disconnect it?

Back to basics...

--DD

I will start tracing wires later today. I don't have any points as it was converted to a petronix set up.

I was looking at the wiring diagram this morning so will start down the path of first checking continuity of wires going from coil to regulator plate. I think I may have done that before but will double check.

I will need to find the ground wire to see if it is disconnected anywhere. It is frustrating the hell out of me but then again, nothing unusual with that now is there? After all, it is a 914 AND over 40 years old. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)