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> Steve's unending Progress thread, Air compressor setup recommendations
stephenaki
post Feb 19 2014, 06:33 PM
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Had some time today to tear down the driver's side bank. Initial look is not good. So, what would cause the 'shiny' sections of the pushrods? Rod tube retainer? If so, what is the fix or is this even an issue? Looks to me like it might eventually wear through the rod tubes?
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Also looks like the cylinder head did not seal properly based on black spray pattern on the cylinder head.
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Piston tops are pretty black as well.
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I guess I'll just clean it all up again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Luckily I have a lead on a set of 2.0 heads from MBlizzard so I may be converting to those. I'll take my time and make sure I get things right this time as I obviously didn't on the last rebuild. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

Still looking for anyone who has used the Accel Gen 6 EFI for some thoughts on its compatibility and useability in our cars. I'll tear down the passenger side bank tomorrow if I get the chance.
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scotty b
post Feb 19 2014, 08:30 PM
Post #362


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Shiny spots are normal. it's from the retainer rubbing the rods. Make certain they re all straighrt. Easiest way is by rolling them over a true surface. If you need the heads machined call me. the Machinist across the lot used to own an import repair shop and knows these things inside and out
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stephenaki
post Feb 20 2014, 07:16 AM
Post #363


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QUOTE(scotty b @ Feb 19 2014, 06:30 PM) *

Shiny spots are normal. it's from the retainer rubbing the rods. Make certain they re all straighrt. Easiest way is by rolling them over a true surface. If you need the heads machined call me. the Machinist across the lot used to own an import repair shop and knows these things inside and out

Thanks Scotty, probably not these heads as I will be hopefully picking up a pair of 2.0 heads from Mike (MBlizzard). Depending on their state, I may take you up on it.
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Dave_Darling
post Feb 20 2014, 10:14 AM
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The shiny spots are not normal. They're from not getting the retaining wire for the tubes seated on the shoulders of the tubes. If the lower part of the bent wire sticks down into the tube, the pushrod wears on it and you get that shiny area.

The fix is to pull the wire back outward. Pull far enough and the bent corners will "click" into place against the shoulder of the pushrod.

--DD
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stephenaki
post Feb 20 2014, 10:58 AM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Feb 20 2014, 08:14 AM) *

The shiny spots are not normal. They're from not getting the retaining wire for the tubes seated on the shoulders of the tubes. If the lower part of the bent wire sticks down into the tube, the pushrod wears on it and you get that shiny area.

The fix is to pull the wire back outward. Pull far enough and the bent corners will "click" into place against the shoulder of the pushrod.

--DD

hmm, OK, I'll make the adjustment when I get to that point and post a pic to make sure I have it in the right location.

------------------------break------------------------------
Scotty,
Does your machinist bubba clean up case halves and can he make sure the surfaces are perfectly flat prior to re-assembly?
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stephenaki
post Feb 22 2014, 06:59 PM
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OK, after my TIG welding class (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (I love this class!) and completing the 'Honey Do' list I got to continue the tear down. Seems as if the passenger side cylinder bank and heads also didn't seal. I used the gasket for both sides, don't think I'll do that with the 2.0 heads.
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Also noticed that the underside of the rocker arms looked like they were worn away by rubbing on the valve spring assembly? Didn't see any wear on the valve spring assembly though so it may have already be there. It was just the ones to the #4 cylinder.
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Got all the bolts off and have her up on the bench, I will separate the halves tomorrow and find the errand dizzy spring then start cleaning things up.
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Nice thing about these motors is I have no problem manhandling them up onto the bench, sure as hell couldn't do that with my cast iron MG motor or the big ole V8 in the Merc! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

At least I am not in a rush like I was in Germany, I'll take my time and make sure it is together right, hopefully Mike doesn't find any issues with the 2.0 heads he's selling me.

I will need to resolve the SRS light issue with the son's car as well as fix the window regulator, I think I'll do that after I finish tearing down the motor.
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stephenaki
post Mar 29 2014, 04:13 PM
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Well, the 2.0 heads fell through. After a good inspection by Mike (MBlizzard) he sent me a note saying they were crap so didn't get them for me. Bummer. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) On the flip side, i'm glad he made the call before I wasted the money on them.

So, we're back to square one with the motor and a new plan. Rebuild the existing motor with the fly cut heads and do the Megasquirt conversion with the current set up. Mike is looking for a set of used intakes and a plenum for the 1.7 motor while I work on getting things cleaned up.

The motor is completely apart and I started to clean things up but then got side tracked with work on the Mercedes, son's JEEP and my new GEO Tracker. I'm rebuilding the steering gear on the Merc and had to replace the bearings on the Tracker to which I found that the locking hubs were shit so now have those on order. I will pull the son's transfer case out tomorrow morning and then check lengths for both input shafts to figure out whether or not I need to do a swap. Hopefully I don't.

Once I get the boy's Jeep squared away and the Merc done I can re-engag the Teener. I'm waiting on an adjustable pin spanner wrench so I can pull the bearing cap on the steering worm gear assembly. It normally comes right off but someone torqued the damn thing in! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I've also started to read up on the Megasquirt conversion, I want to see if I can set up a sequential fire system vice a batch fire system. If anything, the experience I will get from doing this will pay dividends in understanding FI systems and how they are set up. And yes, I'm also a glutton for punishment. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) Thus...the saga continues... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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76-914
post Mar 29 2014, 06:53 PM
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Did you lap the area to be sure your jugs were mating to the head properly?
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Krieger
post Mar 29 2014, 07:00 PM
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Hey Stephen. I was checking out your pistons. I am not 100%, but those look like they are from a bus? They seem pretty deeply dished.
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stephenaki
post Mar 30 2014, 06:49 AM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Mar 29 2014, 04:53 PM) *

Did you lap the area to be sure your jugs were mating to the head properly?

originally, while in Germany, no. I will this time though. I just haven't had the time to run them down to a place called Abacus racing.
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stephenaki
post Mar 30 2014, 06:52 AM
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QUOTE(Krieger @ Mar 29 2014, 05:00 PM) *

Hey Stephen. I was checking out your pistons. I am not 100%, but those look like they are from a bus? They seem pretty deeply dished.

I'm not totally sure if they are bus or Porsche 2.0s. I read where both were dished but the bus pistons had a deeper dish than 2.0 Porsche heads. At this point it doesn't really matter. I just need to get everything cleaned up, machined where needed and put back together. I'll run the carbs while I work on getting the components for the Megasquirt conversion and do the mods to pop in the new side shift transmission.
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Larmo63
post Mar 30 2014, 10:14 AM
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After reading this saga, I don't know if the Army needs to issue you a special medal or if you need to be committed. Wow, your perseverance is simply amazing!
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mepstein
post Mar 30 2014, 10:24 AM
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I bet you can find someone doing a 6 conversion willing to sell a good running 2.0 with stock FI for $1-1.5K. That's the direction I would go. Have money ready and use freightquote.com to ship xcountry if needed. Should be around $250 to ship. JMO and good luck. mark

Or skip ebay and place a WTB for stock FI on World and spend around $500 inc ecu.
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stephenaki
post Mar 30 2014, 03:43 PM
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QUOTE(Larmo63 @ Mar 30 2014, 08:14 AM) *

After reading this saga, I don't know if the Army needs to issue you a special medal or if you need to be committed. Wow, your perseverance is simply amazing!

Wouldn't have made it this far in the Army if I just quit when things got difficult. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Career Army bubbas like myself don't tend to be smart enough to know when to quit, we just keep pluggin away until either the mission is complete or we die. Since I don't plan on dying anytime soon, I'll just keep pluggin away. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

As for medals...naw, got plenty, some meaningful some not. Never put much worth in what was on a person's chest, no, I tend to assess people based on their competence, integrity and intestinal fortitude. You can have a stack of medals going over your shoulder but they don't always represent the true nature of the man OR woman.
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stephenaki
post Apr 18 2014, 06:03 AM
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WOOHOO! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Got the new FI system from KC, AKA mrfourteen. Needs some cleaning and minor reconditioning but she is in good shape. Now, when you get a call from your son and he say's, 'you got a big box in the mail' and you say, 'it's my FI system for the Porsche.' The follow up should be, 'OK, where do you want me to put it?' (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

His response, 'do you want me to open the box and put it on the freezer?' Think in terms of large low deep freezer, not the upright type. Sounds reasonable right? At least I thought so. Now, most people would assume that this means he is going to open the box, peer inside and then put the box on the freezer. NOPE! Not my son.

I got home to a complete FI system strung out and piled up all over the damn freezer! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) It didn't help that I was tired as I was on the podium teaching all day! Long story short, I made his ass get back out into the garage and re-box everything back up again. Note to self, define the intent before agreeing to the task! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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scotty b
post Apr 18 2014, 06:10 AM
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cool (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mellow.gif)
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stephenaki
post Dec 17 2014, 01:06 PM
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Soooo...not much has been done with the car, she has sat languishing in the driveway under a car cover and waterproof tarp. So many other things have interfered with me getting anything done, it has been a bit maddening! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Monday however, I took the heads, cylinders and pistons to a local machine shop called Magnum Machine shop to get an evaluation and estimate on the heads. They called me yesterday and the owner said the valve guides needed replacement. I checked online today and found them on PP as well as Partsgeek. I called him back and he is going to do some measuring to determine whether or not we need to get oversize valve guides or standard ones.

I should know later today and will order the guides so he can start the work on the heads. He will also check the fit of the cylinder to the head and determine if he has to do any machining. I am estimating about $500 worth of work. Maybe i'll get lucky and it will be cheaper...yeah....right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

I guess I'll continue cleaning everything else up and prepping it for the rebuild. Anyone paint their case? If so, how did it hold up and what type of paint did you use? I am assuming a self-etching primer is needed along with a high temp paint. Any recommendations on this would be appreciated. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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CptTripps
post Dec 17 2014, 01:18 PM
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Don't just use any "self etching primer" you find. Make sure it's rated for high heat. VHT makes a flame-proof primer for this specific purpose.

Like painting anything, prep work is going to determine how long it lasts. Make sure you de-grease properly...and then do it again....before you prime.
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stephenaki
post Dec 17 2014, 05:54 PM
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QUOTE(CptTripps @ Dec 17 2014, 11:18 AM) *

Don't just use any "self etching primer" you find. Make sure it's rated for high heat. VHT makes a flame-proof primer for this specific purpose.

Like painting anything, prep work is going to determine how long it lasts. Make sure you de-grease properly...and then do it again....before you prime.


Yeah, I figured it would have to be a high heat primer as well. Sherwin Williams has an auto paint store near me, I'll pop in and talk to them.
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stephenaki
post Dec 17 2014, 06:03 PM
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OK, need some valve guide help.

As a reminder, my motor started life as a 1.7L. The heads were fly cut to fit 2.0 jugs and, as I discovered, the valves were changed to 2.0 valves with a 36mm Ex and 42mm In valve.

The guy at Magnum did some measuring and came up with 13.13mm Exhaust ID valve guide measurement and a 12.12mm Intake ID valve guide measurement. Now, I know nothing when it comes to valve guide replacement but it is my understanding that I will need to replace the old guides with oversize guides. SOOOOOO...where the heck do I get them and what will work? Doesn't look like PP has anything that will work. The only one I could find there was 12.09mm for the intake.

Any help would be appreciated!
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