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> Steve's unending Progress thread, Air compressor setup recommendations
stephenaki
post Jul 22 2009, 04:33 AM
Post #61


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QUOTE(Cupomeat @ Jul 21 2009, 06:35 AM) *

Damn, This is a shame about the bill total and the need to dump the car.

My dad recently had his 1930 Model A Ford professionally restored (exterior) and they gave him an original quote of $6,000-$8,000.

Well, over the course of the resto, he paid them $11k in progress payments and they never mentioned that they estimate was significantly off.

Well, at the end of it, they hit him with a $27,000 bill for the work. That was well beyone what was expected and of course my dad didn't have enough money to pay it (he is retired) so he left them the car and went back to regroup.

In the end, he found the money and got the car, but I am a big fan of having the shop tell you when they reach certain money thresholds, just to make sure both can survive the final outcome.

Then again, as any restoration should be expected to be 3x the original time and dollar amounts, it wasn't that far off. Conventional wisdom is right.

So, sorry about your situation, good luck in the final outcome, and it would be a shame for you to sell the 914, especially after getting this far with it.


It wouldn't be so bad if the dollar was on par with the Euro but since the EU artificially inflates the Euro's value it makes the bill much larger.
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stephenaki
post Jul 22 2009, 05:39 AM
Post #62


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So, I talked to household 6, for those of you that are former military you understand the call sign! We're gonna sell her or at least try.

I took her out this morning and washed her, she really is fun to drive! I still need to put her on the lift and figure out where the oil leak is coming from as the oil drips onto the exhaust and then burns and smokes.

Hopefully it is an easy fix, yeah right!

I did some checking on ebay.de, mobile.de and autoscout24.de and the average price for a 1.7 or 1.8 is about 5500 Euro and, the ones listed are not in very good shape. The couple of 2.0L ones listed went from 5k up to 15k Euro. I don't think the one for 5K was driveable.

So, here are some pictures of the car as it stands now; I will list some info on what has been done and what needs to be done then solicit some opinions on price.

EXTERNAL PICTURES
(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG3275.jpg)

(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG3276.jpg)

(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG3278.jpg)

(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG3279.jpg)

MOTOR
(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG3280.jpg)

(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG3281.jpg)

INTERIOR
(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG3283.jpg)

(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG3284.jpg)

(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG3286.jpg)

(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG3285.jpg)

Here is what work has been done.
-Motor converted to 2.0; heads are machined 1.7 heads - motor was balanced
-All the tin was blasted and powdercoated
-Brake master cylinder and proportioning valve replaced along with some of the brake lines
-brake pads replaced
-windshield wiper motor and arms replaced, works beautifully unlike when I got her in Italy!
-windsheild washer unit replace with electric unit
-wheel studs replaced and Pedrini wheels installed
-fuel sending unit pulled and completely cleaned - now works, didn't before.
-new exhaust system, converted back to original system with heat exchanger
-Engman fuse panel installed
-seat belts converted to 3 point system
-right front strut and brake caliper replaced
-new clutch pressure plate

What still needs to be done
-replace side mirrors, drivers side mirror just kinda droops.
-replace windshield trim plan on ordering it from member vendor
-targa top rubber needs replacement - may or may not do
-window seals need relacement - may or may not do
-trailing arm bushings need replacement.

After talking to Christoph he thinks he may have someone interested in buying the car and he recommended 9800Euro as the price. He said that it is very hard to find a 914 that both passes the TuV AND has the historical certification which this car has. Thoughts from the collective group?

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hcdmueller
post Jul 22 2009, 05:55 AM
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Sorry to hear this. I got back from my deployment early due to some unforseen events. I was looking forward to getting my car out and getting some miles on it. You can definitely get top dollar for your car. Nice 914's are really expensive over here. I am sure some locals will jump at the chance. How hard was your car to get through TuV? I am going to work that soon so I can take the car anywhere in Germany.
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stephenaki
post Jul 22 2009, 06:41 AM
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QUOTE(hcdmueller @ Jul 22 2009, 03:55 AM) *

Sorry to hear this. I got back from my deployment early due to some unforseen events. I was looking forward to getting my car out and getting some miles on it. You can definitely get top dollar for your car. Nice 914's are really expensive over here. I am sure some locals will jump at the chance. How hard was your car to get through TuV? I am going to work that soon so I can take the car anywhere in Germany.


Remember, you only need the historic inspection. Talk to your registration bubbas on exactly what you need, you don't need a complete TuV inspection.

Their are certain things that are allowable on a historic car to make it more driveable. I had a new steering wheel, electric washer system, Engman fuse box and three point seat belts. These changes enhance vehicle safety and drivability so are not a big deal.

You will run into trouble if you have a 5 lug set up and the original car was a 4 lug, they may also want you to have original rims (you can change them out after the inspection). Not sure what their thoughts are on the exhaust system but I had a stock system put back on the car. I think the big issue is that the car can't be modified so much that it loses its originality and now looks like a street rod versus a historicaly restored car.

If you want, I will ask Christoph if there are any RED flags that you need to avoid.
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stephenaki
post Jul 25 2009, 08:19 AM
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OK, so I put her on the lift today to find the oil leak. Well, I am pretty sure I have a slight main seal leak as a drop of oil accumulated on the bottom of the fan shroud. I am also getting a good amount from the pushrod tubes on the driver side once she has been moving and is warmed up. I didn't see a lot when she was running and up in the air but when I got home from a long drive you could see a good amount on the ground where the push tubes are located.

So, how easy is it to pull the tubes and change the seals without dropping the motor? Looks a little tight in there from where I was looking up. I know that it sounds sacrilegious but would using the Mittelmotor technique of just using high heat auto seal/calk in there do the trick? Looking for some suggestions because I don't think it will sell if she has a big oil leak problem. A small bit is fine but this isn't what I consider a small bit.

I also think I have an exhaust leak on the drivers side, I took a video and I'll try to figure out how to embed the video after I get back from cleaning my bike.

I did manage to fix the rear view mirror and side mirror thanks to a very informative write up on how to tighten up the side view mirror in the Lapawuli section. I also got the passenger side door handle working again but I don't think the key matches the lock because I can't lock the doors. I will see if there is a thread on this in the forum later.

Gustl has been very helpful in translating and making suggestions for the add to sell the car and I will post it to the 914freunde site later today. Will post some pictures and the video when I get back later.
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Dave_Darling
post Jul 25 2009, 03:04 PM
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Pushrod tubes: Pull the tubes halfway out of the head to replace the seals. Not hard at all. Do each one with the cylinder at TDC so the valve springs aren't pushing the rocker arms away from the head.

--DD
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stephenaki
post Jul 27 2009, 06:41 AM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 25 2009, 01:04 PM) *

Pushrod tubes: Pull the tubes halfway out of the head to replace the seals. Not hard at all. Do each one with the cylinder at TDC so the valve springs aren't pushing the rocker arms away from the head.

--DD

Dave,
So I assume that I have to do this from under the car thus, put her on the lift, engage the gear and spin the rear tire to hit TDC then go for it. I am assuming that I will have to remove the valve train or will I be able to pull the tubes out enough to not need to do this?
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stephenaki
post Aug 14 2009, 02:33 PM
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So, I took the time to replace all the O rings on the #1 and 2 cylinders today. When everyone says it is easy well, that is a matter of opinion. #3 and 4 side is bone dry, just the 1 and 2 cylinders that had oil leaking from what I could tell.

Since I wasn't sure which one, I replaced all the O rings. 4 hours later I had it started and idling up on the lift. I didn't see any oil form under the cylinder head as I did before and I let her idle for at least 10 minutes. I did see oil forming on the bottom front and rear seam of the crankcase though. So maybe I didn't seal the crankcase as well as I thought? Can I through on any type of sealant that over the seams that will keep her from leaking?

The oil is still hitting the exhaust when I stop and smoking and I have an exhaust leak in the number 1 cylinder. I will put her up on the lift again later and see what I can figure out.

It looks as if I'll be keeping the car, I had put it up for sale on 914freunde.de but haven't had any interest and truthfully, I don't think I can sell her as long as she has the oil leak problem. Unlike the PO, I have a hard time passing a problem off to someone else so will probably pull the ad.

What I really need is a weekend where I can drop the motor and check both seals to make sure they aren't leaking. I have two new seals that I got when Christoph also ordered some gaskets for me.

If anyone has some ideas on sealling the seams without cracking open the crankcase again I am all ears!
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ME733
post Aug 16 2009, 06:32 AM
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QUOTE(stephenaki @ Jul 7 2008, 12:50 AM) *

QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Jul 6 2008, 04:02 PM) *

QUOTE(hcdmueller @ Jul 6 2008, 04:04 PM) *

New 96mm pistons and cylinders are available at Jake's store. You would have to reset the deck height and probably get new push rods. Add some new bearings, seals, and a few other odds and ends and you will be back in business. No need to get a 2.0 crank. If you upgrade to IDF or DRLA carbs you should get better performance too.

If you clean the heads up and post good pics of the combustion chamber Jake can usually spot cracks right away. It is actually kind of scary.


Thanks Chris,
We ship to Europe daily and have shipped Chris several items including an entire engine kit and FI retrofit assembly..

My video would have pinpointed EVERY fastener on the case during dis-assembly, one by one and each is counted.
PLEASE do not reuse that distributor GEAR..!!..it,s trashed.
I can provide you with what's needed to just patch this engine up, no worries..

Chris, Jake,
So if I stick to 94s instead of going to 96s I assume that I don't have to reset the deck height and can stick with the same pushrods? I planned on getting new bearings regardless but will stick with the Dellorto carbs I have now.

I set everything up and kept them in order labeling each part so I know where it goes back to with the exception of the case bolts. What about the distributor gear, salvageable with cleaning up or toss and get a new one? I know that this is the cheap way out but I just need her running before it gets cold this season. I don't want to have to ride my motorcycle in the snow again! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

Thanks for all the help.

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Bleyseng
post Aug 17 2009, 01:51 AM
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QUOTE(stephenaki @ Aug 14 2009, 01:33 PM) *

So, I took the time to replace all the O rings on the #1 and 2 cylinders today. When everyone says it is easy well, that is a matter of opinion. #3 and 4 side is bone dry, just the 1 and 2 cylinders that had oil leaking from what I could tell.

Since I wasn't sure which one, I replaced all the O rings. 4 hours later I had it started and idling up on the lift. I didn't see any oil form under the cylinder head as I did before and I let her idle for at least 10 minutes. I did see oil forming on the bottom front and rear seam of the crankcase though. So maybe I didn't seal the crankcase as well as I thought? Can I through on any type of sealant that over the seams that will keep her from leaking?

The oil is still hitting the exhaust when I stop and smoking and I have an exhaust leak in the number 1 cylinder. I will put her up on the lift again later and see what I can figure out.

It looks as if I'll be keeping the car, I had put it up for sale on 914freunde.de but haven't had any interest and truthfully, I don't think I can sell her as long as she has the oil leak problem. Unlike the PO, I have a hard time passing a problem off to someone else so will probably pull the ad.

What I really need is a weekend where I can drop the motor and check both seals to make sure they aren't leaking. I have two new seals that I got when Christoph also ordered some gaskets for me.

If anyone has some ideas on sealling the seams without cracking open the crankcase again I am all ears!

rear crankcase seam leaks ususally are the rear main oil seal leaking past the flywheel sometimes the sealing surface on the flywheel is scored creating a leak.
I was just in Stuttgart to see the Porsche Museum!
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stephenaki
post Aug 17 2009, 10:53 AM
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QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Aug 16 2009, 11:51 PM) *


rear crankcase seam leaks ususally are the rear main oil seal leaking past the flywheel sometimes the sealing surface on the flywheel is scored creating a leak.
I was just in Stuttgart to see the Porsche Museum!


OK, your not making me happy here! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) At least I have a couple of new seals that are still good. I am definitely keeping the car so will have to pull it off the other site. I am working on setting up a 3 day that I can park the car in the autocraft lift bay and drop the motor, inspect and fix oil leaks, then put back in the car.

HEY CHRIS WANNA DO A 3 DAY IN STUTTGART? He, he, he...Gustl, how about you? Probably won't be until after Mid-September as I have an Ireland and UK trip planned in a couple of weeks.

So the new priorities on the car are as follows:
1. get windshield trim and fix leak
2. fix oil leak
3. start taking care of spots of rust that are bubbling the paint
4. replace rear trailing arms

Let the madness begin...again (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
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stephenaki
post Sep 23 2009, 01:09 PM
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OK, the new windshield is in and trim is on, shouldn't leak anymore. Took her out for a spin with my daughter and ran down the back way and towards Nurtingen before we turned around. I was checking to see if I was still having oil problems. Yep.

So, I got her back and looked under the car, drivers side of the engine mount had some oil drip off of it and the shift linkage had droplets of oil all along its length. I am thinking front main seal by the impeller? Anyone else have any thoughts? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

Of course this means I will have to drop the motor to get to it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) Not sure when I am going to find the time though. I may have to take a week of leave to get it done.
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stephenaki
post Sep 28 2009, 01:10 PM
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So, I was able to get a floor jack and some stands from the autocraft shop as a loaner; I was asked why I didn't just bring the car to the shop and do it and I pointed out that I would wind up tying up one of his bays for several days and didn't want to do that. "OK" he says and off he goes in search of jack stands while I go and find a floor jack.

I had hoped to start on Saturday or Sunday but didn't get the chance until this afternoon. I got everything disconnected using the tutorial on the PP tech page. Very well written and easy to follow, you just have to make modifications based on the year of your car and some other things like carbs vs FI and heat exchangers. I thought it would be more complicated but once I began the process I found it very simple. At least until it was time to disconnect the CV joints.

Checked my tools, I don't have the needed 8mm 12pt hex head CV bolt removal tool. OK, shoot off to Toom (think German style home depot) which is down the street. They have one but you have to buy an expensive, about $60, tool set to get the specific piece. Well, I don't need all the other crap and they don't have the particular item as a 12pt set either. So, I'm dead in the water until tomorrow. I will check at the autocraft shop to see if they have the tools I need and borrow it. I am hoping I can finish the motor drop tomorrow and start working on changing out the seals while the weather still holds here in Deutschland.

If the autocraft shop doesn't have the tool there are a couple of other possibilities in Boeblingen that I can check out. Wish me luck!
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stephenaki
post Sep 29 2009, 02:36 PM
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2 hours my ass! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) So I found a CV joint removal tool or 'triple' square socket driver at the autoshop. Came home got the CV bolts out fairly easily and separated the stub axles from the tranny. The harder part was being a contortionist to get the engine mount bolts out! The furniture cart wasn't quite in the right position so I will be replacing the cart but the motor is down and the rear on stands.

The axle stubs are preventing me from rolling the motor out the ass end but I will deal with that tomorrow. After two days and I would say about 6 hours of work I finally got the motor out. Now that I have done it I see how it could take only a couple of hours but when you're doing it for the first time, it takes a while.

Tomorrow's plan is to pull the motor out from under the car and start tearing down the front so I can replace the seal. Although I don't want to, I will have to separate the motor from the tranny to make sure the rear seal is OK as well. I have the seals, so I may as well replace them both and take care of all the oil leaks which I am pretty sure are from the seals. Will post some pictures tomorrow, hopefully.
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stephenaki
post Sep 30 2009, 12:20 PM
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OK, had to pull the carbs in order to get the axle stubs clear and pull her out. Before I go into what I found, first question; best way to marry the tranny back up with the motor? Some help please! When I did my MG motor and tranny I had the motor on a stand and the tranny on a crane so it was easy, not quite as easy this time around.

So, taking one thing at a time, I pulled the impeller and took a look at the seal. Dry as a bone. hmm, but there is oil all over the oil pump. Well, I took off the housing and after careful inspection came to the conclusion that the oil pump was the culprit on the front end. The body wasn't leaking where it mated to the crankcase but I evidently didn't do a good job sealing the cover to the oil pump. I got the cover off and resealed it and threw a bead of high heat seal around the pump body just in case.

Put that back together and then went to the rear seal. There was a pool of oil looking at me when I pulled the flywheel off. I don't think I seated the seal properly but, in the interest of making sure, I pulled it out, cleaned up the area and put in a new seal instead of trying to seat the old one. This time I made sure it was seated properly.

I also replaced the O-ring in the flywheel and threw on a new crush washer. This brings us to the mating of the motor with the tranny. I just quite couldn't' get it right, is there a trick? Thoughts? Here are some pictures of the motor and my tranny mating method, i.e. put the tranny on a floor jack and try to roll it to the motor.

(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG3559.jpg)

(IMG:http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj217/stephenaki/Porsche%20914/CIMG3562.jpg)
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stugray
post Sep 30 2009, 10:40 PM
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HA HA! when I read the title of this thread I immediately thought of what tripped me up on my first 914 engine removal..... The F&%ed up bolts they used for the CV joints.

Since then ( college days many years ago ), I could have the engine out of my 914 in less than 2 hours by myself & a floorjack & two jackstands.


The good old days ;-)

Stu


QUOTE(stephenaki @ Sep 28 2009, 01:10 PM) *

So, I was able to get a floor jack and some stands from the autocraft shop as a loaner; I was asked why I didn't just bring the car to the shop and do it and I pointed out that I would wind up tying up one of his bays for several days and didn't want to do that. "OK" he says and off he goes in search of jack stands while I go and find a floor jack.

I had hoped to start on Saturday or Sunday but didn't get the chance until this afternoon. I got everything disconnected using the tutorial on the PP tech page. Very well written and easy to follow, you just have to make modifications based on the year of your car and some other things like carbs vs FI and heat exchangers. I thought it would be more complicated but once I began the process I found it very simple. At least until it was time to disconnect the CV joints.

Checked my tools, I don't have the needed 8mm 12pt hex head CV bolt removal tool. OK, shoot off to Toom (think German style home depot) which is down the street. They have one but you have to buy an expensive, about $60, tool set to get the specific piece. Well, I don't need all the other crap and they don't have the particular item as a 12pt set either. So, I'm dead in the water until tomorrow. I will check at the autocraft shop to see if they have the tools I need and borrow it. I am hoping I can finish the motor drop tomorrow and start working on changing out the seals while the weather still holds here in Deutschland.

If the autocraft shop doesn't have the tool there are a couple of other possibilities in Boeblingen that I can check out. Wish me luck!

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Dave_Darling
post Sep 30 2009, 11:02 PM
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You're using the same method I've used to attach the trans to the engine. I have found that I often will need to put the trans in gear, grab one output flange, and turn the other output flange to turn the input shaft. That's to get the splines on the shaft lined up with those on the clutch disk.

--DD
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stephenaki
post Oct 1 2009, 01:14 AM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Sep 30 2009, 09:02 PM) *

You're using the same method I've used to attach the trans to the engine. I have found that I often will need to put the trans in gear, grab one output flange, and turn the other output flange to turn the input shaft. That's to get the splines on the shaft lined up with those on the clutch disk.

--DD


Thanks Dave, will try that, did you lube the input shaft up with a light coat of oil grease to help her slide in better?
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Dave_Darling
post Oct 1 2009, 07:01 PM
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I don't think I did, but I probably should have. On the splined area and on the part that rides in the pilot bearing.

--DD
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stephenaki
post Oct 2 2009, 07:22 AM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Oct 1 2009, 05:01 PM) *

I don't think I did, but I probably should have. On the splined area and on the part that rides in the pilot bearing.

--DD

Will go ahead and do that. I was looking up info and read through the tail end of the clutch adjustment and replacement how to on PP written by Wayne Dempsey. Based on what I read, the tranny was removed only and then re-installed with the motor still in the car. I am thinking this may be easier for me to do since I am one man team.

Anyone else have any thoughts on this? Would it be easier or harder to get the tranny married up with the motor already installed?
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