Steve's unending Progress thread, Air compressor setup recommendations Options

[stephenaki]

Well, necessity being the mother of invention, I went out to tackle the tranny and motor marry up again. Cleaned the input shaft then put a light coat of grease on it to lube the pilot bushing. Lined up the jack then slowly brought it together. Dang, not quite lined up; back out the jack turn the input shaft just a tick then line up and try again. This time they seem to be mating well but I can't get them to slide together.

Hmm, maybe if I take a clamp and clamp both sides then slowly turn the clamp I can bring them together slowly without having to shove anything! So off I go in search of a clamp...damn, their all in storage! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) Now what? Hmm, ya know that one bolt is pretty long...wonder if I can get it through the motor and tranny case and just tighten the bolt? Should do the same thing as using a clamp; brilliant! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

So, I thread the bolt through but it is a bit long so I take a wrench and thread the bolt through the wrench and then the tranny to the motor...BINGO! Start to tighten and she begins to slowly move together. Stop and check alignment then grab both sides and try to slide them together knowing that it ain't gonna happen...Well hot damn! Slide together like a a well greased........Yeah, well leave it at that. So, I got the motor put back together and began the process of re-mounting the motor to the car. Here is where I have a question.

I got the car and motor lined up and the tranny mounts were easy but I don't think I have the engine mounts quite right. According to the PP diagram:


I should have only one number 15; well, I got two on there. One facing cupside down and the other was on there cupside up and covering the rubber mount. This has caused a problem with getting the dang bolt through the mount, base upper and washer as it doesn't provide me much room to thread the nut onto the bolt.

Any reason I should leave the second base lower on there? Based on the diagrams I only need one base lower and it fits cupside down with the notch pointing inward towards the motor. I am hoping I can get the car back on the road either tomorrow or Sunday as I have to take my bike in to get the front wheel re-balanced and an oil change so need trans!

Now, once I get the mount installed properly, 21ft lbs of torque? That is what Haynes is showing but I am not totally sure and it is a royal PITA to get in there to torque the damn nut. Any help from the peanut gallery would be appreciated.

[Dave_Darling]

Only one #15 per side. It goes between the mount and the bar; the notch goes over the bar. Leave the second one out.

--DD

[stephenaki]

Only one #15 per side. It goes between the mount and the bar; the notch goes over the bar. Leave the second one out.

--DD

That's what I thought. Well, after meeting up with Johannes this afternoon I got the engine mounts installed properly, big difference. Tomorrow I am hoping to finish connecting everything up and getting on the road. Wish me luck.

[stephenaki]

Well, today didn't quite go as planned, I got the right side CV bolts back in but had to stop to go find the torque settings as I couldn't find them in my books. I may have been looking in the wrong place. Found them on the PP site though. So, I decided to tackle the exhaust bolt; cleaned up the bolt and the hole, slapped some loctite on it then reinstalled the bolt. About this time I start getting the chills. I've been fighting a virus all week.

Today is also supposed to be my daughters 4th birthday party; well, I went downhill fast and by the time my wife came home from getting some things for the party I was running a high fever and had about 5 blankets piled on me. Needless to say I did not make it to the party and my poor wife had to set everything up herself. It is not 1700 my time here in Deutschland and I have finally broken my fever and all I have left is a sore throat and headache. Being stupid, I am debating going back out to work on the car some more. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Worst part is I have night shift starting tomorrow, Volkfest (local version of Octoberfest) on Thursday and then we ride to Prague on Friday. I don't have time to be sick! Done ranting now, I'm gonna go root around in the fridge and find something to eat. Then I think I will head out to the garage...No one said I was smart. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[stephenaki]

IT'S ALIVE!!!! Well, kinda, for the most part. Got everything put together with the exception of the motor lid. Started her up, damn that sucker is running rough! I know that I preset the carbs before installation last time and that the Boxer guys have no clue what to do with them so that isn't the problem.

I am pretty sure I need to set the idle and then balance both carbs but I need to get her up and running to operating temps first. So, the plan tomorrow is to put on the lid, start her up and go for a drive. Good way to check that I have no oil leaks as well. During the time I had her running I didn't see any oil developing anywhere so I think I finally got that fixed. The valves were adjusted prior to motor installation so I don't think this is a problem but, after I make some adjustments, we shall see.

I'll finish putting on the rear valance and motor lid tomorrow then after balancing the carbs we shall see how she does.

Quick question, still have a small exhaust leak just off the #1 cylinder I believe. This has been a problem, anyone got any suggestions on fixing this problem? The other side is fine and the #2 has no leaks just the one cylinder.a

[stephenaki]

So, I've evidently I have bronchitis, great. Needless to say they tell me to go home and stay home. I can do that. Now, being the stubborn SOB and since I receive a lot of help getting the valves done and the car is running....time to synch the carbs!

First off, my damn archaic SU Carbs are easier to synch than these Delortos; not because they are complicated but because it is awkward to get to the fast idle screw.

So the car is running, so far no oil, I'm screwing around with the damn carbs, kinda smokey in here (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) must be that damn exhaust leak. Well, the passenger side carb is being a pain cause the screw is on the inside and I have to lean over the engine bay and do the contortionist thing to get to the screw. Well, need to take a break for a minute, lets see if I got any oil leaks....can you see where this is going??

HOLY SHIT! I got me a pool and it's under the number two cylinder! GODDAMNIT!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

So, I turn off the car, jack it up, clean up the pool of oil and crawl under there with a flashlight. Definitely not from the push rod tubes, those are good, nothing pooling on the bottom of the impeller fan housing, nothing on the rear main (at least that is fixed). What the hell? There are droplets on the engine mount and the tin right below the number 2 cylinder. Hmm, is it possible that their is a leak between the head and the #2 cylinder?

Well, looks like I'll be dropping the motor...again. So any suggestions on what I should be looking for? I can see the seam between the crankcase and the cylinders but I don't see any oil there. I am pretty sure it is from the cylinder and head; I didn't 'lap' the head but used a gasket.

I will take a break tomorrow, doctors orders, then look at dropping the motor on Saturday. If anyone has any words of wisdom it would be appreciated. Just when I think I finally got things licked. I guess it's a good thing i'm a stubborn asshole, otherwise this car would have been at the bottom of a lake somewhere.

[stephenaki]

OK, so today was a rather dismal day in Germany, cold, wet and friggin hail! Needless to say, I loaded up the Pedrinis, Centerlines and winter tires and made a run for post. I dropped the wife and wee one off at an indoor playground called Sensapolis then did what I needed to do with the tires.

After returning home I put the new rubber on the car and decided to see if I could pinpoint the oil leak. I removed the connecting pipe that goes up into the engine tin and the heating air supply or warm air guides as some call them so I could better see where the oil was coming from.

Re-connect the carb linkage on the driver side so I can get her started and crank her up. Once she was warm and idling at about 1500 rpm I looked under the car. No oil. OK, lets finish what I was doing the other day and start synchronizing the carbs.

What I forgot to mention is that Boxter had run the vacuum lines from the carbs into a PVC valve and also run another tube off the oil filler assembly into a perforated plastic oil container. I had connected the lines to two tubes that were sticking out of the left side of the car as I assumed that this is where they went. Well, I disconnected the tubes and set it back up the way Boxter had it done.

So, she's running, I disconnect the driver's side carb linkage and begin synchronizing the carbs checking under the car every now and again. Finally, after about 20 minutes I start to see some oil form on the cooling fins of the #2 cylinder. I get a spit every now and again but nothing like the other day.

Check the pushrod tubes, dry, check the valve cover gasket, dry, check near the impeller, dry. #3 & 4 are also good to go. #1 cylinder fins show no oil forming on them. So my thoughts are,
1) the seal ring/gasket between the head and cylinder didn't seat right or I blew a that gasket
2) I don't have the head torqued down properly but I would think that this would affect both cylinders if this was the case
3) blowby created when I connected the tubes incorrectly from the carbs?

Either way, it is primarily a spitting leak and nothing major at this point so I will re-check torque in the morning and see what she does. I will also do some research on how the tubes are supposed to be hooked up. From the Delorto manual I am supposed to have the vacuum tube connected between the carbs. This would leave the, I assume overflow tube, from the oil filler assembly to connect somewhere else.

Once I recheck things and make sure they are set up properly I'll start her up again and see what happens. If she still leaks then I will order new seals for both cylinders, clean up the head, replace and reseal the head and cylinders. Will obviously have to recheck valve adjustment but at least I don't have to drop the motor. I need to double check to see if I already have the seals since I had acquired two seal sets; maybe i'll be lucky but that is usually not the case for me.

Unless anyone has any other suggestions this is the plan that I will proceed with. Eventually this car will be back on the road again permanently!

[hcdmueller]

Is your pulley for the cooling flap cable torqued down? That hole goes straight into the case. Are you using any sealant between the cylinders and the case. I have Jake's video and he recommends using Kuril K2 between the cylinders and the case.

[stephenaki]

Is your pulley for the cooling flap cable torqued down? That hole goes straight into the case. Are you using any sealant between the cylinders and the case. I have Jake's video and he recommends using Kuril K2 between the cylinders and the case.

I sealed the case with the Curil K2; I have to check the pulley, I don't think I saw one for the cooling flap. In fact, I don't recall seeing a thermostat with cable that connects to the flap set up now that you mention it.

[stephenaki]

OK, after a slow start this morning, I watched Mongol instead of working on the car, good movie by the way, I headed out to tackle the teener again.

First, lets adjust the shift linkage. Boy what a PITA! Whoever designed the access panel and clamp assembly needs to be shot! Got it done but I am surprised I didn't throw out my back doing the different contortions to get to the bolt and nut on the clamp.

Next, pull the cylinder cover and check torque of nuts. Oh crap, I forgot, If I want to get some of the nuts I gotta take off the tin! Well, lets check the couple I can reach. Yup they were good so I am pretty sure head to cylinder torque is not the problem.

So, lets start her up and take her for a spin, so she's running, so far no oil. Get in, push in the clutch, put her in reverse.....GRIND GRIND GRIND! What the hell? How about 1st? GRIND GRIND GRIND! Well that's not good.

OK, I clearly need to adjust the clutch cable as I obviously didn't get it right when I reinstalled it. So after some checking here and there I found where I screwed up and made the adjustment. Lets try again, OH HONEY! "WHAT?!" Come out here and push the clutch in so I can make sure it is engaging!

Out comes the wife, she gives me the long suffering look, I get under the car, "now?" Yes dear, now. She pushes, still a bit loose; send the wife on her way and make some additional adjustments. This time I clear everything out of the way again, start her up, clutch....put in reverse...WOOHOO! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) Back her out of the garage!

Now, lets take her for a little spin shall we?! So I run her about 5 miles, get her up to about 50 and hit some stop and go traffic until I finally get back, about 10 minutes total time. Pull her in, leave her running and check under the car. All I got is an occasional drip with some splatter from the vibration of the motor. I still think she is coming from the #2 cylinder but it is very, very minor.

Well, before I re-attach the warm air guide and connecting tube, I plan to run her into work tomorrow which will be a good 15 mile trip that takes about 30 minutes on the back road. If I am getting just a minor drip then I am not going to worry about it. I'll just keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't get worse. Should get me through the winter. I do need to make sure the HEs and the defroster work but I'll have to tackle that next weekend as I have a trip to Garmisch this week for a conference. No, not taking the teener, riding the bike down cause I'm a glutton for punishment! Should be a cold ride.

I am due to move in June of next year, she just needs to behave until I get her back to the states, once I get her back and have all my tools out of storage she can act up again. I am sure I'll have questions as I dig into the defroster and heating system, the saga is not over, just on temporary leave. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

Time for a beer, especially since I am feeling much better and seem to be getting over the bronchitis. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif)

[ILM914]

just took my impeller hub off, if I hadn't put the center bolt back in before pulling it off it would have came flying off and hit me hard. hope that didn't hapen to you. Joe

[stephenaki]

just took my impeller hub off, if I hadn't put the center bolt back in before pulling it off it would have came flying off and hit me hard. hope that didn't hapen to you. Joe

Nope, that center bolt was solid.

[stephenaki]

So what does one learn when they head out at 0645 and the temps are near freezing? Well, a working defroster is a must especially when there is fog and the water from the windshield washer freezes on the window!

Other than that, the car did well, there was some smoke as the little bit of oil hit the exhaust and burned off but she definitely does not like the cold when starting in the morning.

Since there is no choke I have to pump the gas and try to keep her RPMs up enough to warm the engine but this is not an option at O-dark thirty when you are trying not to disturb the neighbors.

Couple of questions for the group.

1. oil tampon suggestions? Anyone ever rig something to catch minor oil leaks and prevent it from spilling on the exhaust?

2. warming the motor. Any suggestions to help this process or do I just need to put in a choke?

Looking for thoughts and suggestions.

[Gint]

1. oil tampon suggestions? Anyone ever rig something to catch minor oil leaks and prevent it from spilling on the exhaust?

2. warming the motor. Any suggestions to help this process or do I just need to put in a choke?

1. Forget it. Put a flat drip pan under the car in the garage and call it good. Until you can repair the leak that is. Couple of times a year I take mine to the car wash and blast off the underside and then bring it home and clean up by hand. This motor I have now probably won't be in the car that long anyway.

2. Never ending battle with a carb'd type IV. Twiddle the throttle a little to get it going. Then I just let it idle really low until I'm sure oil pressure is up and then bring it up to 1-1.3k and let it run for a minute. Then I take off and try to keep it under 2.5k or 3k (at the most) for the first 5 minutes of drive time.

[stephenaki]

1. oil tampon suggestions? Anyone ever rig something to catch minor oil leaks and prevent it from spilling on the exhaust?

2. warming the motor. Any suggestions to help this process or do I just need to put in a choke?

1. Forget it. Put a flat drip pan under the car in the garage and call it good. Until you can repair the leak that is. Couple of times a year I take mine to the car wash and blast off the underside and then bring it home and clean up by hand. This motor I have now probably won't be in the car that long anyway.

2. Never ending battle with a carb'd type IV. Twiddle the throttle a little to get it going. Then I just let it idle really low until I'm sure oil pressure is up and then bring it up to 1-1.3k and let it run for a minute. Then I take off and try to keep it under 2.5k or 3k (at the most) for the first 5 minutes of drive time.

I had a feeling that was going to be the answer. Still only a minor oil leak when I got home after running the autobahn, the bigger problem now is the fact that the number 2 cylinder has developed a major exhaust leak! Will have to tackle that when I get back from Garmisch. It's gonna be a coooooooooold ride down on the bike! My buddy and I push out at 0730ish, it is 0636 and my outside thermometer is showing 28 friggin degrees! This ought to be fun! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[stephenaki]

Well, after a long Thanksgiving and some other things to do I finally got around to working on the exhaust. I ran the tap I got with the helicoil kit into the exhaust stud hole, no problems there. Then I put in the helicoil, hardest part? Getting the friggin tang to come out of the hole.

After putting the exhaust back on and starting to tighten down the nuts the one stud started to spin again. Damn! Since it is about 8 friggin degrees here in Deutschland and the outlets to the garage don't work, I called it quits for the day. Maybe I'll get back to it before Christmas, maybe not. We are going to Nurenburg tomorrow so I don't know when I'll have at it again. As it is, I also have to do some trouble shooting on my motorcycle as the start switch is not responding. Might be taking the bus into work for a bit.

[stephenaki]

Well, the weather was warm enough for me to tackle the teener again. So, I got back under her and tried to figure out the problem with the stud. Turns out the actual nut was stripped; crap. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Off to the basement in search of a spare nut, lo and behold I found one! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Back up to the car, lets see now, carefully turn...yep she works. So it wasn't the stud that turned on me a few days back but the actual nut. So now lets tighten things down and see if we fixed the exhaust leak.

Start her up, crawl under, seems to be ok, I don't see any exhaust coming out of the #2 cylinder. OK, lets put the heat exchanger back together and take her out for a run shall we. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

So I get it all put together and run it about 2 miles, she is shifting well and I don't smell any smoke when I stop. Get her back to the garage, pull her in and crawl under and have a look...Damn! Still leaking exhaust (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) ! OK, I really need to take it into the shop and get it up on the lift to fix this problem and it will entail putting in new gaskets. I'm not gonna get it done here so lets see if the blower for the defroster and heater is at least working.

Well, I pulled the red lever, and pushed the controls over but it didn't feel like any air was coming from the defroster vent. Hmm, guess I'll need to trouble shoot that as well. Anyone got any recommendations on troubleshooting the blower system?

For now, she is driveable, I will just have to leave the windows cracked. Considering my bike needs a new battery I will be taking the Teener into work this week. The weather is also turning to slush which does not make a good motorcycle riding experience! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I will just need to make sure I take her to a car wash each week and hose the underside down real well with the chemicals on the road to prevent icing.

[stephenaki]

So, it's been snowing here since last Friday and only stops to take a breather. We have at least 18 inches if not more and I have been driving the teener, now heat, windows cracked so the windshield doesn't fog up.

As mentioned earlier, the sucker wsa running fast because the cable was not quite right. I adjusted it the other day but it seems as if the pedal wasn't returning all the way back up; it was just shy about a mm or two.

Anyway, I drive to work today, when you get off the autobahn to go to Patch Barracks the exit has a light at the end, if you turn right you head downtown to Vaihingen. If you turn left, you head to Patch and a turn off onto Pascal strasse that takes you to Boeblingen; right in front of you is a big Audi and VW dealership.

As I slow and stop, the car is idling high again. OK, put it in neutral, engage the E-brake, now, reach down pull the gas pedal back a bit and voila! Idle goes down. Clearly I need to see what is going on there.

Light turns green and we creep up some more until there is only one car in front of me when the light turns red again. So, lets do the same thing...OOOOOPS! I pulled just a bit too hard and the pedal popped loose! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Well, this isn't good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) OK, don't panic, try to put the pedal where it belongs and when the light turns green, pull straight into the car dealership to figure out what the hell just happened.

Well, I got her there, barely and cut the motor. I had my flashlight with me because I had to re-install the damn rear view mirror again this morning so I took a look down there. Well whatdya know, the pedal is a ball joint style set up; I would know this if I had done more work down there. At least thats a releive, it souldn't be too hard to fix. Well after a couple of tries, I got it lined up properly, pushed all the way down till it stopped moving and slapped the shit out of of it to make it go back into the socket! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) It worked! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

So, start her back up and head to work. Hmm, the idle seems to have resolved itself as well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Wonder if she just needed a mild beating? We will see if it truly resolved itself when I head home today.

Just thought I would share yet another misadventure of the yellow bomber (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[stephenaki]

OK, phase 2 in this money pit and I need some help from the experts on this forum.

First, cylinder heads.

I have a 1.7 machined for a 2.0; how much benefit would I get if I actually throw in 2.0 heads? What else will I have to change i.e. exhaust system etc.

Transmission.

I want to convert to a side shifter, if I can find a 73-75 year tranny what else will I need to do to fit it?

Finally, fuel injection.

Which is recommended regardless of 1.7 or 2.0 heads?

I think the first project will be the tranny conversion then I will make a determination of what to tackle next depending on feedback to my other two questions.

[ChrisFoley]

I have a 1.7 machined for a 2.0; how much benefit would I get if I actually throw in 2.0 heads? What else will I have to change i.e. exhaust system etc.

What do you mean "machined for a 2.0"? Be more specific.
If the displacement is still 1.7 and the cam is near stock, stick with the 1.7 heads.

I want to convert to a side shifter, if I can find a 73-75 year tranny what else will I need to do to fit it?

You need the later engine support crossbar along with the later center and outer mounts. You need the complete shift linkage and shift lever. You need a firewall bushing made for the conversion, since the rod diameters are different in that location.

Finally, fuel injection.
Which is recommended regardless of 1.7 or 2.0 heads?

If you have 2.0 heads you need to use the 2.0 FI runners since the bolt pattern is different. Then you also need the 2.0 plenum because the runners are larger diameter. Etc.
If the displacement is only 1.7 don't change the heads, and stick with 1.7 injection.
If the displacement is 1.9 or more, switch to the 2.0 heads and go with the 2.0 injection.