uh oh my frame is a sagin! what to do? Options

[JOE M]

Thanks for stoping by Rich I do appreciate it. I started to tweak the door a little and it is looking good. I may need to shave a bit but thats a winter project. As far as the carbs I need to buy a munual because I have no clue.lol. Thanks again for your help

[rjames]

I'm not questioning the final verdict, but I keep going back to the following quote from the beginning of this thread:

I do not think it is too bad yet but the passenger door is deffinently off. I placed a jack under the front and when I raised the car the door aligned prety good.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but this shouldn't happen if it's all structually sound, no?

[r_towle]

not sure what he is talking about..
I jumped up and down on the long...its solid...He was watching.
The long is fine, but is was shrunk when welded up..
this is a common issue when a shop welds up the long...they are in a hurry to get it done and with no bracing and to much heat, this happens.

the cure will be to raise the door up a bit more than stock which requires ovaling out the fender where the hinged mount...
It can be done and its really not to hard.
when you raise the door the lower rear gap gets larger due to the shape of the door.
Currently his door is mounted lower than stock.
The top edge and the upper part of the fender are higher than the door.

Raise it up as far as you can get it...remove the door and grind out a bit of metal to move the hinges up higher..get another 1/8 inch and you will be very happy.

Remember you need to remove the front piece of glass and adjust the window bar out of the way to get it perfect.
then put the window back in like we talked about.

Did you get the o-rings for the idle jets yet???

Rich

[JOE M]

Rich,
I did get the o-rings and started to adjust the carbs. It is running alot better but I am not there yet. I am close but it still farts on acceleration.LOL. I also went in and adjusted the shift linkage so now I can get in all 5 gears. I guess the finished door alignment will be secondary to getting the carbs adjusted correctly. The last thing that I will need is an e-brake handle and than it should pass inspection.

[ericread]

WOW! Kudos to Rich for performing the on-site assessment!!! I really thought form the pictures and description that this 914 was in real trouble. Amazing what an expert can determine upon inspection!!!

Rich, and folks like Rich are what make this BBS so relevant

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Eric Read

[r_towle]

Rich,
I did get the o-rings and started to adjust the carbs. It is running alot better but I am not there yet. I am close but it still farts on acceleration.LOL. I also went in and adjusted the shift linkage so now I can get in all 5 gears. I guess the finished door alignment will be secondary to getting the carbs adjusted correctly. The last thing that I will need is an e-brake handle and than it should pass inspection.

OK,
So you rebuilt them, yes?
Did you set the float level? If not its easy.
Remove the top of the carb.
Hold the top plate with floats attached in a vertical position.
Set floats to have a spacing of 11mm from the top of the carb when you hold it vertical...the adjustment is the little tab that touches the needle valve.
You have to use really small needle nose pliers to bend that tab till you get the perfect measurement...

This is a very important setting and both carbs need to be the same.

Then after its back together, with no linkage, use the syncrometer to adjust each barrel to match the other barrel on the same carb by adjusting the air bypass/mixture screw.

Once you have a carb that matches, do the other carb. Its alot easier if you can get them to all match using these screws, but its not neccesary. What is neccesary is that both barrels of a single carb match exactly.

Then put the linkage on and sync the carbs.
Stop trying to adjust each barrel with the linkage in place...its opening up the butterfly valves...take the drop links off NOW...

Rich