Uhhhhhh Ohhhhhhhhhh
My passenger door is sagging and I need an inexpensive way to fix it. My goal is not to have a show car but a decent driver ( without a sagging frame). I do not think it is too bad yet but the passenger door is deffinently off. I placed a jack under the front and when I raised the car the door aligned prety good. I have attached a couple of pics if it helps. It looks like the P.O did some work because the the outter portion of the long looks fairly good. Also I removed the carpet to see if that revealed anything and it looks pretty good. I can not see anything from inside the car but under there is some rust. It does not look as bad as some that I have seen but I am not an expert by any means. Any suggestions on what I could do to get by.

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Visual clues concern me.
What I cannot see in the photos concerns me even more!

in stock rocker clamshells are down and dirty. We also have the jack post combo to weld in first.

we have good instructions about how to install

So what do you think I need to fix this problem and what do you think the problem is?. Also are there any other areas that I can take pictures of to be more revealing. I did take a peak under the carpet and there are no visual signs of rust from the inside. I dont know if this helps.

Where are you located in NH???
I am just south of Nashua and I could take a look for you.

There are a few areas that may need to be addressed.
It could be very very simple.

Rich

some one anyone please help. Do I need to remove anything else to reveal what the extent of the damage is. Is there any cheats to fixing this type of damage because as I said all I want is a decent driver not a show car. I do not think it sagging too much but it is obvious there is a problem. How safe is it to drive as is.

Show us a pic of the hell hole and the floor pan from underneath on that side. also, a shot of the area inside the pass. side rear fender well. Jack the car up and take the rear wheel off to get some good shots.

Panorama, no closeups (yet) ...
Andy

If you are close by I can look for you and show you in person.
The "hell hole" is the part of the "frame" just below the battery tray.
Move the computer and take a few pics from the engine bay into that area.

Take a few pictures below that area from under the car and show the bottom of the long.

Your longs dont look bad from the pics, but they do look repainted.
It may have been repaired yet not welded properly.
The door could be misaligned.

Has this car had a front end accident? If so it could change the front door gap and to get that right the door was adjusted poorly.

I can make the door look alot better just by adjusting and a few special tricks.

Rich

I think that's it exactly... the jack post is missing, so I assume a bad repair job...

Joe;

Jump on the offer that Towle has made!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Offer him and anybody that comes with him a good dinner (or killer lunch). Have really good beer in the refigerator. Pay for his gas (the liquid that goes in the car).

Photos can only tell so much and having somebody that knows 914's look at it is invaluable.

Ask him if there is anything he would like you to remove before he shows up. Have it removed before hand!! (it's a respect thing) Don't make him wait while you remove something like the battery.

Ask him if there are any tools that you should have on hand. Have a jack and jack stands handy. He can't look under it, if he can't get there.

Have a note pad and pen. Take notes.

Basically, kiss his ass and it will be worth it!

Wes V

IC a the jack tube...whatchu talkin bout willis???

Rich

Looks like a jack hole and not a tube. Shows previous work that was not completed.

I don't suppose it is something as simple as the door being out of alignment?

Zach

That was kida what I was thinking but it would be good if Rich got over to make sure that was all it was.

I think someone needs to look real hard at the areas that Jeff circled. Especially considering all the cars that have been posted here with bondo covering major issues with fresh paint.

Could be easy, could be.....well.....not. I hope it is easy!

Jim

Rich I am in Hudson N.H. I live off of RT3a just before the tyngsboro line. Man I hope it is something simple. I love the car and finally convinced my wife to love it. Zach I do not think it is the door out of alignment because when I jacked up the car (jack placed towards the front end) the door gap closed to almost perfect. I think that this car has had some major work done because both door sills are patched. The P.O probably did some work in this area. Overall I think that this car does still have potential.

Rich the car is carbureated so the computer is probably gone right? As far as I can see there is no major rust. I removed the carpet from the passenger side and I can not see any rust at all inside the cabin on the floors. I am in Hudson N.H near the Tyngsboro line.

Well, if it does turn out to be a broken backbone, but the rest of the car is okay, the good news is that it can be fixed. If someone welded new clam shells to rusty longs, it might be ugly.

Good luck! Post pics and let us know how things looks.

Zach

Zach,
what is the best way to diagnose this problem. Do I need to cut out the parts that highlighted red in the pics above ( I guess they are the outer portion of the longs). I am guessing that the problem lies beneath this portion right?

Joe only lives about ten minutes from my shop...
I will drop by whenever you say and we can go from there.

Rich

Just be greatful that its not saggen like Mimi`s mam`s on the hot chick`s thread.At least you can fix yours

Rich is the man!!! He will be stoping by sometime on Friday to take a look. I will keep you all posted. Thanks again to everyone.

Feed and beer him well!

Looking forward to update...

I offered him beer ,wine, and even a rib eye steak for lunch but he does not do lunch-lol. Worst case is I drink his

No question - you are doing this the right way. Rich knows what to look for and will be able to tell you how to fix whatever it ends up being.

Here's hoping its just wonky door alignment.

Zach

Thanks for you optimistic outlook Zach. Here are a few more pics. inside of the car,under the rear wheel well and along the bottom. Hope these reveal something.

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We also need to see the area directly above the area in your last pic. That's the bottom of the long, it would be nice to see the area below and in front of where the battery is/was, the RF lower corner of the engine compartment.

bottom of long has been patched and welded
Inner long has been welded to floor
hello hole bottom has been welded...

Overall I think you are fine, just a bit of tweeking and ALOT of elbow grease to clean the current rust and undercoat it...

Rich

So whats with the door gap? Did the tub twist when it was welded, or is the door just out of alignment?

Zach

when I get there I will take a look.
I think we can get alot of that out with a decent adjustment.

Rich

From the response I think it sounds prommising. Het Rich do you own the garage on 113 in tyngsboro just before the fire station?

nope, I live in Dunstable and my shop cant really be seen from the road unless you really slow down..

R

Kinda of like the batcave?

OT: Hey Rich, I got rid of most of the exhaust leak by removing the bolts between the exhaust and HEs and then re-tightening the cooper nuts (as you suggested at the CFR party). I'm guessing the remaining leak is probably the ends of the HEs not being flush with each other. I'll fix that when I put the 2.0 in this winter.

Joe's car is fine.
Looks like alot of welding was done on the passenger side...fairly decent job. The jack post was never put on...but a new outer long was...

Looks like the long may have shrunk a bit due to welding and the door was never adjusted properly...

I showed him how to adjust it and went through a bit of talk on his carbs...
Made a new 914 friend and along with his supportive wife, he will get it running like a charm..hes almost there...

Rich

Horaay! Happy endings are great! Thanks for reporting back Rich.

Awesome.

zach

THAT'S what this place is all about!
Cool.

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cut holes and put yer feet through 'em

B Sure.
Please.
Take it deeper and be sure.
Crunchy Zone is danger zone.
B-SHURE

Thanks for stoping by Rich I do appreciate it. I started to tweak the door a little and it is looking good. I may need to shave a bit but thats a winter project. As far as the carbs I need to buy a munual because I have no clue.lol. Thanks again for your help

I'm not questioning the final verdict, but I keep going back to the following quote from the beginning of this thread:



Please correct me if I'm wrong, but this shouldn't happen if it's all structually sound, no?

not sure what he is talking about..
I jumped up and down on the long...its solid...He was watching.
The long is fine, but is was shrunk when welded up..
this is a common issue when a shop welds up the long...they are in a hurry to get it done and with no bracing and to much heat, this happens.

the cure will be to raise the door up a bit more than stock which requires ovaling out the fender where the hinged mount...
It can be done and its really not to hard.
when you raise the door the lower rear gap gets larger due to the shape of the door.
Currently his door is mounted lower than stock.
The top edge and the upper part of the fender are higher than the door.

Raise it up as far as you can get it...remove the door and grind out a bit of metal to move the hinges up higher..get another 1/8 inch and you will be very happy.

Remember you need to remove the front piece of glass and adjust the window bar out of the way to get it perfect.
then put the window back in like we talked about.

Did you get the o-rings for the idle jets yet???

Rich

Rich,
I did get the o-rings and started to adjust the carbs. It is running alot better but I am not there yet. I am close but it still farts on acceleration.LOL. I also went in and adjusted the shift linkage so now I can get in all 5 gears. I guess the finished door alignment will be secondary to getting the carbs adjusted correctly. The last thing that I will need is an e-brake handle and than it should pass inspection.

WOW! Kudos to Rich for performing the on-site assessment!!! I really thought form the pictures and description that this 914 was in real trouble. Amazing what an expert can determine upon inspection!!!

Rich, and folks like Rich are what make this BBS so relevant



Eric Read

OK,
So you rebuilt them, yes?
Did you set the float level? If not its easy.
Remove the top of the carb.
Hold the top plate with floats attached in a vertical position.
Set floats to have a spacing of 11mm from the top of the carb when you hold it vertical...the adjustment is the little tab that touches the needle valve.
You have to use really small needle nose pliers to bend that tab till you get the perfect measurement...

This is a very important setting and both carbs need to be the same.

Then after its back together, with no linkage, use the syncrometer to adjust each barrel to match the other barrel on the same carb by adjusting the air bypass/mixture screw.

Once you have a carb that matches, do the other carb. Its alot easier if you can get them to all match using these screws, but its not neccesary. What is neccesary is that both barrels of a single carb match exactly.

Then put the linkage on and sync the carbs.
Stop trying to adjust each barrel with the linkage in place...its opening up the butterfly valves...take the drop links off NOW...

Rich