I need some help. Car won't rev or drive properly, I can't get any more RPMs / Power Options

[messix]

maybe run with another known good coil, in not another coil try closing the gap on the plugs a bunch and see if it will rev up a little higher. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Tom]

One more thought, a blocked exhaust. I know it's unlikely, but a plugged exhaust will rob power and cause dark plugs.
Tom

[Steve Thacker]

I'll try both suggestions. At this point no harm no foul. I took the injectors out last night and I hooked up a couple of D batteries, intermittent switch and used some high pressure to blow cleaner through the units. Until I got a killer cone shaped spray.

Tonight I'll check the exhaust and dig out my old blue coil and check it for goodness. Then line it up for a test once the injectors are back in.


I'm feeling like luck is on my side.

[watsonrx13]

Steve, I feel your pain and frustration. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) I too am going through the FI process. Good luck and keep at it... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

-- Rob

[Steve Thacker]

Rob,

I think things are here to test us and my redneck hillbilly ass is going to pass this test. If it kills me.

I took my dizzy completely apart tonight. And cleaned it better that concours condition. Take that you CW people. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Then it got a new set of points, cap, rotor and a new condensor. I'm going with the tried and true Dave Darling method.

And you know what his motto is. "If he can't fix it...its broke" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)


I have cleaned the injectors overnight in a ultrasonic bath of MEK and a little PB blaster.

I then tested each one electronically and pressure wise and they cone out the fuel in perfect shape and amount.

Almost gave me a pink pencil boner I got so excited (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Tomorrow night is putting the mess back together and taking the exhaust off and check it for dead critters.

[Steve Thacker]

UPDATE:

OK everything is back in. Just one lil frigg'in problem.

I CAN"T GET THE DISTRIBUTOR IN THE RIGHT POSITION TO START !!!!!!

I have the little adjuster nut on the advance can pointing dead center to the PCV valve. I used this as a marker as that was pretty much how all the pics I found on here look to be set to. While I crank it, just as I let off it hits a couple of times, then nothing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

The Crane was so quick to start and points are a bitch!

The point gap is on spec.
Fuel pressure is @ 30 psi
Checked all plugs to the injectors, TPS, Coil, sparkies, grounds, etc all looks good and tight.
I have a good spark ( I think ) as it is hitting once in a while

What is the two pronged connector on the intake box just below the TPS ?
I have that unhooked as I need to make new ends. Would that stop it from starting?

[Dave_Darling]

Two-wire connector on top of the plenum? Temp Sensor I, or air intake temp sensor. Makes the mixture somewhat richer when you unplug it.

How's the ground braid inside the distributor?

--DD

[Dr. Roger]

Maybe true but your Crane pickup was in a different position than your points lobe rub-block. Timing will be different when changing from Crane to points or visa-versa.

Gotta re-time it. I'm guessing you are running retarded because if it was too advanced you wouldn't be able to turn it over and would experience kick-back.
Too retarded, get sputtering but doesn't quite start.

I had an optical, swapped for a HEI, and eliminated a similar symptom.

You're doing great. The fix is in sight.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

UPDATE:

OK everything is back in. Just one lil frigg'in problem.

I CAN"T GET THE DISTRIBUTOR IN THE RIGHT POSITION TO START !!!!!!

I have the little adjuster nut on the advance can pointing dead center to the PCV valve. I used this as a marker as that was pretty much how all the pics I found on here look to be set to. While I crank it, just as I let off it hits a couple of times, then nothing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

The Crane was so quick to start and points are a bitch!

The point gap is on spec.
Fuel pressure is @ 30 psi
Checked all plugs to the injectors, TPS, Coil, sparkies, grounds, etc all looks good and tight.
I have a good spark ( I think ) as it is hitting once in a while

What is the two pronged connector on the intake box just below the TPS ?
I have that unhooked as I need to make new ends. Would that stop it from starting?

[Steve Thacker]

Dave Thank you for the info. I'll get that corrected pronto.


Doc Roger my hands shake like a leaf every time I touch the dizzy as it is really sensitive to adjustment. I think I need to have a few Warsteiners and see if that calms me down. To any others watching, pay close attention to the boob playing with the dizzy. If I get it dead-on, I'll take a big ole picture with a reference mark to help you all do the same if you ever need to do this.


I'm going to pull the valve cover and double check the valves on number one for closed position and to confirm I'm really up on the compression stroke.
( thank you previous posters to this issue )

Search is ur fren (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Stand-by I'll post the results late this evening.....

[r_towle]

Do you know how to static time a motor?
Use a test light to set the distributor correctly via static timing...that will be close enough to start the car.

Static timing is not correct for our cars, so you need to use a dwell meter and a timing light afterwards.
You wont get the points right without a dwell meter...its just not possible.

Rich

[Steve Thacker]

Do you know how to static time a motor?
Use a test light to set the distributor correctly via static timing...that will be close enough to start the car.

Static timing is not correct for our cars, so you need to use a dwell meter and a timing light afterwards.
You wont get the points right without a dwell meter...its just not possible.

Rich

Yes Rich I do, but dog gone it I can't seem to get this car to do what I want. I have restored over 500 cars from the 40s - 70s and for the life of me I'm a wee bit stupid is all I can say these days. I'll get it this evening or tomorrow morning. I promise. I have ever tool to do the job including a CO meter. I will make this thing run !!!!

IF NOT I got really great grades in the military from improvised munitions class. I'll send it to Jesus if I fail. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blowup.gif)

[r_towle]

Do you know how to static time a motor?
Use a test light to set the distributor correctly via static timing...that will be close enough to start the car.

Static timing is not correct for our cars, so you need to use a dwell meter and a timing light afterwards.
You wont get the points right without a dwell meter...its just not possible.

Rich

Yes Rich I do, but dog gone it I can't seem to get this car to do what I want. I have restored over 500 cars from the 40s - 70s and for the life of me I'm a wee bit stupid is all I can say these days. I'll get it this evening or tomorrow morning. I promise. I have ever tool to do the job including a CO meter. I will make this thing run !!!!

IF NOT I got really great grades in the military from improvised munitions class. I'll send it to Jesus if I fail.

With that attitude you are certainly qualified to fix a stupid old 914....get 'r done.

Rich

[Steve Thacker]

Aye Sir

[Steve Thacker]

OK a update to my hell on earth...


Well I made myself one of those dandy static lights. It doesn't go completely out when playing with the timing, it just goes from bright to dimmer. Obviously I git it set to brightest and the car starts fine the first crank. You have no idea how happy that made me.

Now the fun stuff. My coil had good primary windings. However, the secondary were toast. So another trip to autozone for a new MSD 2 coil. Now the car starts great. No more Accel coils for me. This was the second one in a year.


More fun stuff
I'm having an issue with the car not able to get the car to smooth out. I was running dwell at 83. I re-gapped the points from .016 to .014 and now the dwell is 55. That is fine. Nice fat blue spark.

The not so fun stuff.

The car has never run 100% after the rebuild. So, I have to turn the dizzy too much and then the advance can hits the sides. The dizzy does not really line up with the bail wire for the oil fill. This made me suspicious. Based on how the car is running. I'll bet my sorry ass that the car is not only 180 out, BUT that the dizzy gear in the engine is not pointing properly. OR I have it BTDC on the exhaust stroke.

SOOOO... I'm going to go outside right now and pull the valve cover. Then turn the engine over until number 1 cyl valves are closed and the car on the compression stroke. I'm also going to check and see if the engine builder just happened to put the dizzy gear in upside down, With the small end at the top. I remember someone posted they had this issue and other talking about how to change it back to normal.

I smell success Fellas !!!!!

[orange914]

Well I made myself one of those dandy static lights. It doesn't go completely out when playing with the timing, it just goes from bright to dimmer.

o.k... corect me if i'm wrong but the "static light" should go out completely when the points are open. the grond is removed and the voltage is sent to the condensor... maybe something to do with killing the accel coils? the condensor may be leaking? or may have been a couple non resistor coil (doesn't the 914 use a resister coil?) could an incorect coil spike a condensor to cause leakage? did you replace it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[Steve Thacker]

Well I made myself one of those dandy static lights. It doesn't go completely out when playing with the timing, it just goes from bright to dimmer.

o.k... corect me if i'm wrong but the "static light" should go out completely when the points are open. the grond is removed and the voltage is sent to the condensor... maybe something to do with killing the accel coils? the condensor may be leaking? or may have been a couple non resistor coil (doesn't the 914 use a resister coil?) could an incorect coil spike a condensor to cause leakage? did you replace it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

HUMMMM damn good point there. The light is supposed to go out. But mine stays on all the time. It just goes from dim to bright as I move the timing. That might be the key on this one to add to the troubles I have. It does start when the light just turns real bright. On the first crank I may add.

To answer your question. The points and the condesor are new. That doesn't meant that the condensor is good I agree.

Maybe someone can chime in if a condensor can cause this side effect????

Anyone of you masters out there, can remember or answer this? I cannot recall.

[Steve Thacker]

UPDATE:

I just pulled the dizzy out and checked the distributor drive gear in conjunction with the TDC /valves on number one closed.

I looked at the gear and it is per specs and what McMark posted back in 2004
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=7934

All good there.

I did notice that IF I were to push down on the number one plug going into the dizzy cap the engine would rev perfectly up to red line. Try to do it without pushing down and the car will not rev over 1500 rpm if I'm lucky (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)


Me thinks it is a dizzy cap issue. I have another new one to check it against.

Shit this stuff is aggravating! I need another paxil. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[Rand]

Is that braided ground strap between the advance plates in the dizzy good? Solid solder joints at both ends?

[Steve Thacker]

I had to make a ground strap as the braided one fell off. I did this after I took the whole dizzy apart, soaked it in MEK and then reassembled with lube. Talk about clean!

I wonder where to can get those braided ground pieces?

[Dave_Darling]

They come with new points plates. Which are good things in and of themselves...

--DD