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> Valve adjustment on a 914-6, Pictures please
John
post Aug 25 2008, 08:14 PM
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Does anyone have any photo evidence that it is possible to remove the lower valve covers (to do a valve adjustment) with the 6-cyl engine in the car?

I have heard rumors that it is possible to do without removing the engine, and I do not believe that the covers will clear the lower studs and the suspension console without lowering the engine (which I do not want to do).

I'll attempt it, if some kind folks will post some pictures of how to get the lower valve covers off.

For those of you who don't know, I am in process of moving away from my shop and am temporarily in an apartment. I moved the car over here, but it is in need of a valve adjustment and all I have is an apartment size garage and almost no tools. There is a Harbor Freight store in town where I may get some temporary tools to get the job done, or I may bring some tools back with me on my next trip home. (very likely to happen)

On second thought, I could probably get the car high enough to pull the motor and do a proper job here in the apartment garage. I just need my tools............

For those who care, I am moving from Kansas City to Evansville, IN.

I would still like to see some pictures (of removing the lower valve covers) if anyone has any.


P.S. the engine is a 1984 3.2
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Joe Bob
post Aug 25 2008, 08:42 PM
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IF you have turbo valve covers and someone was nice enough to remember to grind the covers for clearance....yes.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)






































Otherwise yer fuched..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif)

BTDT, GTTTTPI
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John
post Aug 25 2008, 09:09 PM
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I'm almost afraid to ask.

WTF does GTTTTPI mean?

I believe that I will be dropping the engine in my teeny weeny apartment garage. On jack stands. Damn I miss my lift....
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Joe Bob
post Aug 25 2008, 09:15 PM
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Got The Teeshirt To Prove It....

Oopsie, one to many "T"s
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PeeGreen 914
post Aug 25 2008, 09:16 PM
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oops.... don't know how this one posted without pics (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)


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PeeGreen 914
post Aug 25 2008, 09:17 PM
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It is easy to do but Mike is right. If you have the turbo covers on you will need to grind some down. This picture is off my old engine but you can see where you need to remove material and then they come out just fine.
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effutuo101
post Aug 25 2008, 09:18 PM
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what picture Jon?
I have an apartment sized garage and have had my motor (/6) in and out a few times. You can pick up a small set of tools that will last for the job for about $50. Then leave them in your car as a just in case set.
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effutuo101
post Aug 25 2008, 09:19 PM
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There they are! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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PeeGreen 914
post Aug 25 2008, 09:30 PM
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Here is one from my engine when I had it out. You can see where I did some grinding to avoid the dog ears.


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John
post Aug 25 2008, 09:38 PM
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QUOTE(effutuo101 @ Aug 25 2008, 07:18 PM) *

what picture Jon?
I have an apartment sized garage and have had my motor (/6) in and out a few times. You can pick up a small set of tools that will last for the job for about $50. Then leave them in your car as a just in case set.


Yeah, but I'm a spoiled rotten brat. And I just sold my shop with house included.


Those pics do show some nice detail of removal of some material from the lower valve covers. (are both sides done the same?)

Now they DO come out with that amount of material removed? (I'm still a slightly doubting Thomas) I could probably do that with a HF dremel tool and a carbide bit in slightly less time than dropping the engine (and I would save 11 quarts of oil).

I should do a poll to see who has apartment size garages. (I'll probably be really surprised.)

I'm still a spoiled brat.

My old Garage:





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PeeGreen 914
post Aug 25 2008, 09:50 PM
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No, you will need to take different amounts off each one. I lowered my engine just enough to get the covers off the first time. Then I looked at where material needed to come off. Traced areas with a sharpie. removed the material and they went right in. I removed them three times since without needing to do anything else to the engine.
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John
post Aug 25 2008, 10:46 PM
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QUOTE(Phoenix 914-6GT @ Aug 25 2008, 07:50 PM) *

No, you will need to take different amounts off each one. I lowered my engine just enough to get the covers off the first time. Then I looked at where material needed to come off. Traced areas with a sharpie. removed the material and they went right in. I removed them three times since without needing to do anything else to the engine.



That sounds like what I will attempt to do in my primitive environment. It would be cake once I get my shop set back up (or built), but I don't want to wait that long.

In any event, I'll need my jack and jack stands and a few select tools (like my feeler gauge, a dremel tool and some wrenches)

Thanks for the inputs.


Any problems with header interferences?
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PeeGreen 914
post Aug 25 2008, 10:57 PM
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Well, they are kinda in the way but it is just a matter of wiggling it through. Really not too hard once you get everything figured out. Hope everything goes smooth. Shouldn't be too hard.
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IronHillRestorations
post Aug 26 2008, 07:46 AM
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I take of the heat exchangers on a car that's got them, it makes life much easier. I always take those later 930 lower covers and have 5/16"" of the fins ground off.

I do business with a company in Evansville. Nice town for the size. Turoni's on Main St. downtown has the best thin crust pizza. How long before you move? I go there at least once a year and sometimes two or three.
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morgan_harwell
post Aug 26 2008, 12:19 PM
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I loosen the front motor mounts, then lift the engine about 1" to get the Turbo valve covers off.
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FourBlades
post Aug 26 2008, 12:48 PM
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Heaven must look like this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif)

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Here is my garage. It has very good headroom and ventilation. It is also
subject to flooding and mosquito swarms.

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I did not want any practical considerations getting in the way of my obsession.

John
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Eddie914
post Aug 26 2008, 02:04 PM
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Isn't it easier to "just" pull the engine to adjust the valves?

There is usually a few other items that might need to be attended to "while you are there".

Eddie
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morgan_harwell
post Aug 26 2008, 02:24 PM
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QUOTE(Eddie914 @ Aug 26 2008, 01:04 PM) *

Isn't it easier to "just" pull the engine to adjust the valves?

There is usually a few other items that might need to be attended to "while you are there".

Eddie



ROFL !!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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iamchappy
post Aug 26 2008, 02:28 PM
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I've adjusted the valves in the car and have dropped the engine to do them. I prefer to drop the engine now, it also lets me clean things up a bit.
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John
post Aug 28 2008, 12:14 AM
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QUOTE(iamchappy @ Aug 26 2008, 12:28 PM) *

I've adjusted the valves in the car and have dropped the engine to do them. I prefer to drop the engine now, it also lets me clean things up a bit.



Yes, this is my typical method of doing a valve adjustment as well.

However, with the recent relocation in process, I no longer have my tools and equipment where my car currently resides, so I was looking for a less labor intensive method if it can actually be done with the engine in the car.

I will probably bite the bullet, get some of my tools here, and drop the engine. I need to reseal the timing chain housings as well, but was wanting to put that off until I have a real space (and my lift) to drop the engine. I may just drop the engine and adjust valves and leave the re-seal for later. I would need to reset the cam timing if I take the chain housings off to reseal them, and I don't want to rush that job. I prefer to get the cam timing dead nuts, and I don't feel like doing the job in this primitive location.
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