Valve adjustment on a 914-6, Pictures please Options

[PRS914-6]

Thank You! You guys reminded me why I was so insistent on getting a 95 engine with hydraulic lifters.

Don't laugh.....One thing that can really help you is learning how to adjust without the feeler gauge. THIS IS NOT FOR EVERYONE!!! If you have worked around these engines before you would be surprised how well you can set the valves without a feeler gauge. Set the easiest first using the feeler gauge and note how much the rocker moves as a reference by rocking at the elephant foot. Adjust the others accordingly. Believe it or not, there is a huge difference in motion when you are off .001. Try it! Set one at .005 and note how much more motion there is. I can easily tell if it's at .005 or .004

Once you get rid of the feeler gauge hassle the job goes to minutes instead of hours. I would be willing to bet that many shops use this method (but would not tell you) When I do my 911, I use this method and always double check a few. They are always spot on but I have been a machinist most of my life. Again, it's not for everyone and discouraged for some......I also use a remote starter switch while under the car. I always make sure to rotate the engine so that for every valve adjustment the heal of the cam lobe is in the proper position. Overkill but it gives me piece of mind and assures no mistakes. If you can't tell the difference between .004 or .005 clearance, I would use a feeler gauge.YMMV.....

[John]

Last weekend I did get my valve covers off and adjusted my valves.

I had to move the engine sideways to get each of the lower covers off. Now that they are off, I will grind them so I can do this job easier in the future.

I did notice that it is impossible to see the notches on the pulley (I now have a mirror).

I will also mark my flywheel with notches so that these marks can be seen from the bottom of the flywheel the way I always did with 4-cyl cars.

I figure removing the material from the ribs on the lower valve covers won't make them too much weaker or more prone to leaking and it will definitely make future valve adjustments that much easier.

Thanks for your help guys.

Now that I'm homeless, I need to concentrate on buying a new home with a large shop. I have my sights on a couple, and will see how willing they are to negotiate.

[scotty]

There's not nearly enough oil in those pictures... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[PeeGreen 914]

There's not nearly enough oil in those pictures... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Oh, it's there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) but that's what brake clean is for (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I also put my car up every time I drive and wipe it as clean as I can.

[John]

I removed material from the lower valve covers and they slipped into place. I got everything buttoned up and even repaired my trunk lock, then I found my battery was dead.

It's charging now.

I'm re-learning how to work on cars without all my equipment and lift. It's painful.

I haven't worked without a lift for about 15 years. They really spoil you.

Tomorrow I spend all day house (and garage) hunting........

[PeeGreen 914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) nice work. Now go find that garage of your dreams.... er... house, I meant house (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Downunderman]

I got rid of the studs and replaced them with flange headed bolts. Lower cover doesn't need grinding then. Use the back side method as per Waynes tech article. It's foolproof.