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> engine runs on 2 cylinders, nothing on cylinder 2 and 4
JOE M
post Aug 27 2008, 08:46 AM
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I know I am going to get beat up hard for this one but here goes. I have been trying to tune my carbs for a while now but have had no luck. I got the car to idle great ( I followed Rich`s advice by taking the linkage off and tuning each side individually. I got all 4 cylinders reading the same with the snail. I reved the engine a little and it started to pop through the cylinder #2. I let it idle for a while and pulled cylinder #2 wire and the engine continued to run the same. I pulled the wire for cylinder #4 and it still ran the same. I than pulled #1 and it almost stalled and the same was true for #3. I was puzzled that it would run so good on 2 cylinders. I turned the engine off and started it with cylinder #2 and # 4 off. It started up and idled fine. I verified the plugs were good by swapping them in the cylinders that were good and I swaped the wires as well. If my timing was way off could this cause this or is more an issue with the cap and rotor? I am so close but this is killing me because I cant tune it if it is not running on all 4 cylinders. Any ideas what is going on?
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r_towle
post Aug 28 2008, 10:56 AM
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when are you around??
I would need to run through a few subsystems to check.

Need to run through the ignition first. (Find TDC for the crank and make sure TDC for the dizzy is set up right)

Then the carbs
Make sure everything is performing the same way.

Then the valve train.
Pushrods and valve adjustment...its easy enough to see once you see it for the first time...you can see at a glance if the pushrods are correctly seated or not...

Rich
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JOE M
post Aug 28 2008, 11:32 AM
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I`m home at 4:00 today and off tomorrow. This weekend is tough because my daughter is going off to college so we have alot going on. But as I said, your helping me so whatever works for you.
Thanks again
Joe
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JOE M
post Aug 28 2008, 04:12 PM
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I made a little mistake in my post--it`s the #2 and 3 cylinder not firing. I checked spark and there is spark but IMO it`s not great. I did a compression check on #3 and it is at 80~85. Again not great but it should fire and run. I also know that #1 has the lowest compresssion at about75. I am starting to think it`s more a carb setup issue or electrical issue ( possibly cap and rotor?). I checked the gap on plugs and it was about .028". I think that I should have the carbs rebuilt correctly because I dont have a clue what I am doing. If I keep touching it I am going to have a lawn orniment. I hate lawn orniments---. With that said I guess I should start from the beginning and check my valves clearance, than have the carbs rebuilt and go from there. This is so frustrating ( it seems like a no brainer).
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Dave_Darling
post Aug 28 2008, 09:54 PM
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QUOTE(JOE M @ Aug 28 2008, 03:12 PM) *
I made a little mistake in my post--it`s the #2 and 3 cylinder not firing.


Whew! Then it's not both front cylinders or both rear cylinders--so it's not a flat cam! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

It could be pushrods not fully seated, but that's a much easier fix than a cam swap.

--DD
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JOE M
post Aug 29 2008, 05:47 AM
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QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Aug 28 2008, 07:54 PM) *

QUOTE(JOE M @ Aug 28 2008, 03:12 PM) *
I made a little mistake in my post--it`s the #2 and 3 cylinder not firing.


Whew! Then it's not both front cylinders or both rear cylinders--so it's not a flat cam! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

It could be pushrods not fully seated, but that's a much easier fix than a cam swap.

--DD


How do I determine if the pushrods are seated or not. Do I just take the valve covers off and watch when the cyclinders are at TDC. Like I said I have never really done anything at this level before.
Thanks
Joe
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Dave_Darling
post Aug 29 2008, 08:46 PM
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You can look at the rocker arms to see if some of them don't close. If not, it could be the pushrod thing, it could be a dropped valve seat (I hope not!), and I can't think of anything else off the top of my head.

--DD
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r_towle
post Aug 29 2008, 09:07 PM
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I need to be in and out tommorow.
Do you have a specific time you might be home??
Oh, so its one side of the motor not working, right.
Swap the carbs...its the carbs. Stop thinking its anything else.
Rich
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VaccaRabite
post Sep 1 2008, 10:35 AM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Aug 29 2008, 10:07 PM) *

I need to be in and out tommorow.
Do you have a specific time you might be home??
Oh, so its one side of the motor not working, right.
Swap the carbs...its the carbs. Stop thinking its anything else.
Rich


If it is cyl 2 & 3, then there is no way it is one side of the engine.

2 is on one bank, 3 is on the other - and they are diagnal from each other.

I'm not saying its not a plugged carb. But I'm saying it may not be that simple.

Zach
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r_towle
post Sep 1 2008, 11:03 AM
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While I have never heard it run due to the missing Idle Jet o-rings, I still suspect the carbs are the culprit.

Joe was handed these carbs with the air mixture screws in a bag...
This means the carbs have never been setup back to matching specs.

I feel that considering he has compression and spark, we are back to a fuel delivery issue.
I will drop by today to see if he is around. He may be off at College today dropping his daughter off, but its close enough to drop in.

If I can convince him, I will take the carbs with me and set them up properly so I know the carbs are right.
From there, I will put the carbs on and get it running right.

for me, with known carbs, its probably a few hours to get it running perfectly...just cause I have done so many...
Valves, points, wires, timing, carbs, sync, etc...
I think this may be Joe's first aircooled car...so the amount of variables may be to many at this point.

Rich
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