Polygraphite rear bushings?, How good are these? Options

[Eric_Shea]

Did I miss a DIY price for the rear trailing arms???

I don't think they're a DIY item. It sounded to me like these had to be done there. We were talking and Chuck started crunching numbers etc. frankly, I don't think he has a huge margin in them at that price. It sounded rather labor intensive.

I didn't think the instructions were very clear, then I had a tough time trying to find someone who had a replacement zirc fitting, mine broke off when I mounted one of them. Elephant Racing guys were very helpful in rushing me out a replacement.

They show the placement they just don't mandate it which I think they should. I have a big bag of bleeders here of the M6 variety. I don't like the M5x.8 they supply them with because (all together now) they can break off when mounting them. I've probably installed dozens of them and after the second one I knew it was time for a solution.

[r_towle]

I don't think they're a DIY item. It sounded to me like these had to be done there. We were talking and Chuck started crunching numbers etc. frankly, I don't think he has a huge margin in them at that price. It sounded rather labor intensive.

Shipping trailing arms from the East Coast kills this...add another 100 plus to get them there and back again.

It really cant be that hard...yes its labor intensive but if he can make the same margin without touching the trailing arm...why not...

It would just need some simple instructions.

Rich

[Eric_Shea]

add another 100 plus to get them there and back again.

Yup, and that's the cheap guys.

I think it's tools more than anything. It sounded a bit different than the 911 units as these are housed in the tube. They have those videos that show the installation of the fronts and they look fairly simple.

I'll try to give him a call today and get more details.

It's still good to know there's a resource if someone was doing a full concours resto.

[r_towle]

add another 100 plus to get them there and back again.

Yup, and that's the cheap guys.

I think it's tools more than anything. It sounded a bit different than the 911 units as these are housed in the tube. They have those videos that show the installation of the fronts and they look fairly simple.

I'll try to give him a call today and get more details.

It's still good to know there's a resource if someone was doing a full concours resto.

well I shipped two heads to CA for 50 bucks...just under that.
One trailing arm from here is probably 100 bucks each way....see the problem...

so add 300-400 for shipping...that kills it.

Ask if the process requires anything that cannot be purchased...tools etc.
I would be willing to do an East Coast setup for them...meaning I could do any arms that need it done in my neck of the woods...a territory deal...

Or, just figure out a way to sell them DIY form.
Rich

[Eric_Shea]

That's exactly what our last conversation was. He mentioned it to me then he started crunching the numbers on the calculator and I got the feeling he was running out of margin... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I use USPS when shipping our 5-Arms out and it would probably be around $45 one way for you (no insurance etc.). They have to really be packed well etc. to as they tend to arrive with a cardboard "thing" wrapped around them held together by tape.

Two arms loaded is 50lbs. You could probably shave an additional 7-10 off by yanking hubs and bearings first.

Let me check with him and see where he is with it. I'll let him know there's interest.

[jimkelly]

ERMP-2051500 Elephant Racing, Front PolyBronze Suspension Bushings, Set of 4, 914 1.7/1.8/2.0 (1970-76), 914-6 (1970-72) [Photo]
$260.00

ERMP-2400800 Elephant Racing, Rear PolyBronze Suspension Bushing Set, 914 1.7/1.8/2.0 (1970-76), 914-6 (1970-72) [Photo]
$315.00


ok - the fronts are a set of 4

are the rears a set of two axles and four bearings??

jim

[TC 914-8]

With the harder poly bushings you will need to prep them properly to get them to operate noise free. They need to be honed to a perfect fit on your arm otherwise they can bind and clack or, if they're too loose they can do the same. Here's what I like to use now:

http://www.mcmaster.com

Item #4719A261 Sleeve
Item #4650A68 Drum

This link and #'s takes me to sanding drums, am I missing something?

I see they have a good selection of bushings and sleeves. Is that where the link is supposed to end up? And is that what you use?

[Eric_Shea]

Tony,

Those are the items I use to hone out the solid bushings. They need to be honed properly otherwise; too loose - they can rattle. Too tight - they can squeak.

This is probably the link you're looking for:

http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...565/5297602.htm

Jim, you are correct on the Elephant parts. The Elephant rears come with shafts and bushings that are already matched and machined to fit. The hard poly and Delrin bushings need to be honed to your specific arms.

[TC 914-8]

Yep, I was just surfing their site and got side tracked on the brake caliper rebuilding kits. Caliper widening kit and vented rotors. It never ends!!!!

So, I do have a squeeking on the drivers side rear as I get in and out of the car. I jacked up the side for inspection and can see, and feel rubber bushings. the P.O. had installed the trailing arm stiffining kit along with a chasis stiffining kit. I would think while having that work done, He would go in with new bushings, if so they must be the rubber type.
I did spray some teflon lube in the joints and on the shock bushings, the squeek is gone for now. I guess the best way to check the condition is to pull the control arm and give it a eyeball.
If I do dissasemble the mounts and remove the trailing arm. will I have to have the rear end aligned?

Tony

[Eric_Shea]

If I do dissasemble the mounts and remove the trailing arm. will I have to have the rear end aligned?

Yup.

It sounds like he put the 94D poly bushings in there. They were about all you could get for a while there. Very common, hence a lot of people hate them.

You should be able to get under the car and have a look and a poke. Push a screwdriver into the rubber area and see how soft it is. The inner mount is probably the easiest for this as the outer mount/body flange can get in the way.

The softer poly bushings look just like the harder ones but they can wear prematurly and squeak like you're describing.

[dashgod]

I'm just about to tackle this project myself. I was wondering if anyone has any pictures, video, or other advise on techniques for spiralling or grooving the bushings for the grease.

[Krieger]

I don't have any photos, but have had weltmeister bushings in my car front and rear for about 9 years and 11k mile with no slop or sqeaking. I autocross this car all the time. I have been very happy and have no plans for removal. I temporarily put the bushings on the controll arms and found a good place to put a zerk fitting that would not interfere with movement, then drill a hole, roughly where the center of the bushing is, through both the metal arm or bearing retainer into the plastic bushing. Then remove the bushing drill the hole all the way through. Give the bushings to a machinist and have him put the slightest groove on the id and od of each bushing. I used small washers under some of the zerks so they would not interfere with the movement of the bushing. I squit two shots of swepco moly lube into each zerk every year. I think I used 4mm zerks. I don't know if what I bought 10 years ago is the same as now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

[Eric_Shea]

Here's a write up on it. I like the sanding drum listed in this thread better than the small cylinder hone listed in the link.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=79299

I've done spiral grooves in the past and I don't think they're needed. I would just lube up the bushing until grease starts to come out the end and you should be good to go. Check and relube every six months or so.

[SirAndy]

I've been running the roller bearings (now FreeMotion) for over two years now and i'm very happy with them.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) Andy

[degreeoff]

does anyone know off the top of their heads what size the inside and outside of the rear shafts are as well as the size of the front A arm? I don't see whay we (buy in bulk) couldnt just go through McMastercarr to get the parts for a roller for a HELL of a lot less than the others charge?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#ball-and-roller-bearings/=gl1jy

http://www.mcmaster.com/#thrust-bearings/=gl45s


Josh (the poor one)

[andys]

Josh,

You'll also need a new pivot shaft made with heat treated and ground surfaces for the needles to ride against. Can't use the stock pivot shaft unless someone has figured out a way to add some kind of hardened sleeve over it. I've never done one, but that's how I figure it.

I machined a set of bushings from Delrin; I believe someone here makes those as well.

Andys

[jmill]

does anyone know off the top of their heads what size the inside and outside of the rear shafts are as well as the size of the front A arm? I don't see whay we (buy in bulk) couldnt just go through McMastercarr to get the parts for a roller for a HELL of a lot less than the others charge?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) A little time with a caliper should be all you need. I've got a set on my garage floor right now. Looks like I found my weekend project.

[degreeoff]

does anyone know off the top of their heads what size the inside and outside of the rear shafts are as well as the size of the front A arm? I don't see whay we (buy in bulk) couldnt just go through McMastercarr to get the parts for a roller for a HELL of a lot less than the others charge?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) A little time with a caliper should be all you need. I've got a set on my garage floor right now. Looks like I found my weekend project.

Take measurements for me as I do not want to undo my suspension to make mine yet....PLEASE?

[SirAndy]

does anyone know off the top of their heads what size the inside and outside of the rear shafts are as well as the size of the front A arm? I don't see whay we (buy in bulk) couldnt just go through McMastercarr to get the parts for a roller for a HELL of a lot less than the others charge?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) A little time with a caliper should be all you need. I've got a set on my garage floor right now. Looks like I found my weekend project.

Take measurements for me as I do not want to undo my suspension to make mine yet....PLEASE?

You guys do realize that you can't use the stock shaft with roller bearings, do you?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) Andy

[jmill]

I can take measurements. I don't believe it's perfectly round and will need some cleanup. Andys is correct though. The needles will need to ride on a smooth hardened surface. It looks like around $50 in bearings for the rear. The shaft is another story.