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Need Advice! Paint and Bodywork Guys!

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ahdoman	Nov 24 2008, 07:16 PM Post #1
It's phonetic...Ah-D-O-Man (Audioman) Group: Members Posts: 667 Joined: 7-November 05 From: Santa Clarita, Ca. Member No.: 5,084 Region Association: Southern California	I sprayed my sand primer coat today and it orange peeled on me! Should have known better with the weather changing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Anyway, I can sand smooth the outside body surfaces it's the door jams (especially the hinge side) that have me puzzled. It's going to be a real pain to get in there and sand. Any ideas on how to deal with this? Can I wipe the areas with solvent to try and smooth it out a little? Since it's in the jams it doesn't need to be perfect but if I paint it like it is now it will be noticable.

r_towle	Nov 24 2008, 07:20 PM Post #2
Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States	QUOTE(ahdoman @ Nov 24 2008, 08:16 PM) I sprayed my sand primer coat today and it orange peeled on me! Should have known better with the weather changing (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Anyway, I can sand smooth the outside body surfaces it's the door jams (especially the hinge side) that have me puzzled. It's going to be a real pain to get in there and sand. Any ideas on how to deal with this? Can I wipe the areas with solvent to try and smooth it out a little? Since it's in the jams it doesn't need to be perfect but if I paint it like it is now it will be noticable. Sand it with the small foam sanding blocks that look like a sponge..available at Home Depot. Start with 80 grit...it goes faster that way. Yup, you need to sand it by hand....the old fashioned way...no power tools. Rich

scotty b	Nov 24 2008, 07:24 PM Post #3
rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None	Red scotch brite pad will get rid of a good bit of it, but will tend to follow the ripples . Sandpaper will be your best bet though And no do not wipe it with thinner. You'll hae yourself if you do. BIG mess that won;t re-cure correctly

ahdoman	Nov 24 2008, 07:28 PM Post #4
It's phonetic...Ah-D-O-Man (Audioman) Group: Members Posts: 667 Joined: 7-November 05 From: Santa Clarita, Ca. Member No.: 5,084 Region Association: Southern California	Thanks Rich but let me clarify; I don't mind stripping the primer and starting over. What I don't want to do is remove the original paint and primer so I assume stripper is out of the question? The orange peel is bad enough that it will be a real hassle to sand.

scotty b	Nov 24 2008, 07:34 PM Post #5
rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None	QUOTE(ahdoman @ Nov 24 2008, 05:28 PM) Thanks Rich but let me clarify; I don't mind stripping the primer and starting over. What I don't want to do is remove the original paint and primer so I assume stripper is out of the question? The orange peel is bad enough that it will be a real hassle to sand. 150 grit will knock it right out

r_towle	Nov 24 2008, 07:38 PM Post #6
Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States	QUOTE(scotty b @ Nov 24 2008, 08:34 PM) QUOTE(ahdoman @ Nov 24 2008, 05:28 PM) Thanks Rich but let me clarify; I don't mind stripping the primer and starting over. What I don't want to do is remove the original paint and primer so I assume stripper is out of the question? The orange peel is bad enough that it will be a real hassle to sand. 150 grit will knock it right out DUDE....listen to Scotty...he be a pro. I am probably better at sanding bad paint then scotty...but he is a pro. Rich

scotty b	Nov 24 2008, 07:44 PM Post #7
rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None	[quote name='r_towle' date='Nov 24 2008, 05:38 PM' post='1105178'] (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(scotty b @ Nov 24 2008, 08:34 PM) </div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec--> [quote name='ahdoman' post='1105168' date='Nov 24 2008, 05:28 PM'] Thanks Rich but let me clarify; I don't mind stripping the primer and starting over. What I don't want to do is remove the original paint and primer so I assume stripper is out of the question? The orange peel is bad enough that it will be a real hassle to sand. [/quote] 150 grit will knock it right out [/quote] DUDE....listen to Scotty...he be a pro. I am probably better at sanding bad paint then scotty...but he is a pro. Rich [/quote] Kiss ass (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

r_towle	Nov 24 2008, 07:50 PM Post #8
Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States	QUOTE QUOTE QUOTE(r_towle @ Nov 24 2008, 05:38 PM) QUOTE(ahdoman @ Nov 24 2008, 05:28 PM) Thanks Rich but let me clarify; I don't mind stripping the primer and starting over. What I don't want to do is remove the original paint and primer so I assume stripper is out of the question? The orange peel is bad enough that it will be a real hassle to sand. 150 grit will knock it right out DUDE....listen to Scotty...he be a pro. I am probably better at sanding bad paint then scotty...but he is a pro. Rich Kiss ass (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) nope, your a pro... I am an amateur at best...still learning the chemistry part of this crap...still seems to complicated and makes me really miss lacquer... Lacquer was the amateurs best friend...you screw up, sand it and paint again. You want it to shine more....sand a bit more. Want a deeper shine...spray more. sand more... this new shit sucks IMHO... Spray it wrong and you have to sand it all off... It wont stick worth a shit to any primer unless is the "right" primer...geez. I just peeled some paint off in sheets from a primed car that was sanded to 600 grit...paint came off in sheets..that was a few years old. Lacquer would have stuck to it no problemo... Rich

scotty b	Nov 24 2008, 08:01 PM Post #9
rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None	Only time I have seen it peel off like that it had PPG DP-90 under it. We have done 2 cars...RE_done 2 cars that were done at another shop in northern Va. BOTH had the same issues. Paint was different shades on different panels and both cars you could peel the paint off in 2'x2' sections. LITERALLY we had one piece that was 2'x2' ! I can't say for certain it was the DP-90 at all because I know guys that swear by it, and there were other heinous issues with that shops " work "

r_towle	Nov 24 2008, 08:44 PM Post #10
Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States	QUOTE(scotty b @ Nov 24 2008, 09:01 PM) Only time I have seen it peel off like that it had PPG DP-90 under it. We have done 2 cars...RE_done 2 cars that were done at another shop in northern Va. BOTH had the same issues. Paint was different shades on different panels and both cars you could peel the paint off in 2'x2' sections. LITERALLY we had one piece that was 2'x2' ! I can't say for certain it was the DP-90 at all because I know guys that swear by it, and there were other heinous issues with that shops " work " dunno what happened but it peeled really cool, like potato chips... this is why I was asking about primer for my car...I really dont want to deal with that down the road... Now its below freezing so I will have limited time to cure primer... We shall see if I actually do hit it with primer..I may just cover it up with plastic while I finish up the metalwork and then deal with the flash rust by a big soda blasting event in the spring... I am seriously considering using the rear end as a mold for a one piece flip up carbon fiber rear clip....seriously considering it...doing some testing now to learn the products... I like this idea, it costs more time for the mold, but less time on the metalwork....just use more bondo, get it perfect, make a mold and cut off the rear end entirely. On your door jamb issue...you could use the scotch brite like Scott says but get it on the little 3m twist lock pads that work on a mini air grinder...those are cool. Rich

pete-stevers	Nov 24 2008, 09:04 PM Post #11
saved from fire! Group: Members Posts: 2,641 Joined: 10-October 04 From: Abbotsford,BC, Canada Member No.: 2,914 Region Association: Pacific Northwest	never hurts to sand the primer for extra adhesion....i concur just do as scotty says...

rick 918-S	Nov 25 2008, 08:09 AM Post #12
Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,456 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region	There's no short cut. They don't call it body WORK for nuttin. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) W/Scotty. You need to put in the time.

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