Heat cables, replacing |
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Heat cables, replacing |
Ian Stott |
Dec 2 2008, 12:03 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 907 Joined: 28-January 08 From: Moncton/Canada Member No.: 8,635 Region Association: Canada |
The cable that pulls the heat flapper open broke off, is there a tech article on how to replace those, may as well do both, if one broke the other is probably not far behind.
Ian Stott Moncton Canada |
914Sixer |
Dec 2 2008, 08:11 AM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 8,877 Joined: 17-January 05 From: San Angelo Texas Member No.: 3,457 Region Association: Southwest Region |
It is a one piece wire that runs to both flapper boxes. There is 3 different cables though. One for the -6, and early and(75-76) late ones for the -4. Order new cable according to year. With that said, I believe one or more is NLA.
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jim_hoyland |
Dec 2 2008, 08:21 AM
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#3
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Get that VIN ? Group: Members Posts: 9,278 Joined: 1-May 03 From: Sunset Beach, CA Member No.: 643 Region Association: Southern California |
The replacement is pretty easy to replace once you have a new cable. Once the heater handle is removed ( tewo bolts) and pulled out of the tunnel, the wire will follow. If the current cable broke between the firewall and the flapper, you can easily add a piece.
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Spoke |
Dec 2 2008, 08:22 AM
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#4
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 6,978 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
The cable seems to be nothing more than just a steel wire. I would think the steel wire that can be purchased in spools at a local home improvement/hardware store would work.
Take out a length of the wire, straighten it and bend in half then fish it through the tunnel. Since the originals had the barrel at the end to connect to the flapper, I just got the ends from another cable and wire clamped them onto the new wire. |
SLITS |
Dec 2 2008, 08:25 AM
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#5
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
The cable seems to be nothing more than just a steel wire. I would think the steel wire that can be purchased in spools at a local home improvement/hardware store would work. Take out a length of the wire, straighten it and bend in half then fish it through the tunnel. Since the originals had the barrel at the end to connect to the flapper, I just got the ends from another cable and wire clamped them onto the new wire. It's plastic coated, not bare. SS wire would probably be a lot better than straight steel. |
Bartlett 914 |
Dec 2 2008, 09:32 AM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,215 Joined: 30-August 05 From: South Elgin IL Member No.: 4,707 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Since the flapper boxes have the spring in them that does the closing, why can't a braided cable work? Has anyone done this?
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newto914s |
Dec 2 2008, 08:55 PM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 561 Joined: 16-February 04 From: Thornton, CO Member No.: 1,663 |
I'm fairly sure the cable plays a role in grounding the circuit to the heater booster fan in the engine compartment. So your choose of materials could determine where that fan continues to work.
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Bartlett 914 |
Dec 3 2008, 02:19 PM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,215 Joined: 30-August 05 From: South Elgin IL Member No.: 4,707 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
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r_towle |
Dec 3 2008, 03:10 PM
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#9
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
I'm fairly sure the cable plays a role in grounding the circuit to the heater booster fan in the engine compartment. So your choose of materials could determine where that fan continues to work. These cables have no electrical function. :agreed: The floor switch has a ground contact on the bottom of the swtich that performs the electrical function...it also gets really dirty. Rich |
Cevan |
Dec 3 2008, 05:34 PM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,079 Joined: 11-December 06 From: Western Massachusetts Member No.: 7,351 |
I had the lever out this spring. It's probably not a bad idea to take the lever apart and clean it up.
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r_towle |
Dec 3 2008, 06:22 PM
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#11
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
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IronHillRestorations |
Dec 3 2008, 09:32 PM
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#12
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,716 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None |
I'm guessing the coated single wire cable would act smoother than a stranded cable, that would eventually fray, and abrade the tube.
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mike_the_man |
Dec 4 2008, 12:56 PM
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#13
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I like stuff! Group: Members Posts: 1,338 Joined: 11-June 03 From: Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada Member No.: 809 |
I went to my local bicycle shop and bought a length of brake cable (or shifter cable). I can't remember how long it was, but it was cheap, less than $5. Crimp some ends on, and you're good to go.
Cheers, |
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