The cable that pulls the heat flapper open broke off, is there a tech article on how to replace those, may as well do both, if one broke the other is probably not far behind.

Ian Stott
Moncton
Canada

It is a one piece wire that runs to both flapper boxes. There is 3 different cables though. One for the -6, and early and(75-76) late ones for the -4. Order new cable according to year. With that said, I believe one or more is NLA.

The replacement is pretty easy to replace once you have a new cable. Once the heater handle is removed ( tewo bolts) and pulled out of the tunnel, the wire will follow. If the current cable broke between the firewall and the flapper, you can easily add a piece.

The cable seems to be nothing more than just a steel wire. I would think the steel wire that can be purchased in spools at a local home improvement/hardware store would work.

Take out a length of the wire, straighten it and bend in half then fish it through the tunnel. Since the originals had the barrel at the end to connect to the flapper, I just got the ends from another cable and wire clamped them onto the new wire.

It's plastic coated, not bare. SS wire would probably be a lot better than straight steel.

Since the flapper boxes have the spring in them that does the closing, why can't a braided cable work? Has anyone done this?

I'm fairly sure the cable plays a role in grounding the circuit to the heater booster fan in the engine compartment. So your choose of materials could determine where that fan continues to work.

These cables have no electrical function.

:agreed:
The floor switch has a ground contact on the bottom of the swtich that performs the electrical function...it also gets really dirty.

Rich

I had the lever out this spring. It's probably not a bad idea to take the lever apart and clean it up.

Have your shop vac handy...

Yes clean that one and the Ebrake one...both are grounding switches and both sit at the bottom of a hole full of crap...

Rich

I'm guessing the coated single wire cable would act smoother than a stranded cable, that would eventually fray, and abrade the tube.

I went to my local bicycle shop and bought a length of brake cable (or shifter cable). I can't remember how long it was, but it was cheap, less than $5. Crimp some ends on, and you're good to go.

Cheers,