Another Rebuild Questions - last post, Distributor washer... Options

[stephenaki]

First off, thanks for the replies. Now, I have the case assembled but, have not yet torqued the case. The Haynes says to spin the crank 360 and make sure nothing prevents it from spinning. She spins but takes a bit of muscle and slows down during the spin requiring a bit more muscle.

How much resistance should I have when I spin the crankshaft after assembly? My MG engines spun fairly easily and this is with pistons! Do I need to separate the case and re-check bearing seating? I don't want to continue until I am sure I have things set up right.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OK, I have everything cleaned up and getting ready to lay everything out. Three questions:

1. Is there an easier diagram other than on PP or in the AA catalog to help me ensure I put the bolts in the correct location on the crankcase?

2. Oil pump re-assembly. I have loctite 518 which Jake recommends for attaching the oil pump to the case. I have Curil T and K2 as well but I don't have anything to reseal the cover to the pump. Can I use loctite 518 or do I need to find something else to ensure it seals properly?

3. Final question. How much of a bead of K2 do I use for the crank case?

[StratPlayer]

Here's a thread on all the crank case bolts.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=50873
On the curil, run a small bead down the center of the outer edge of the case them spread it out with a small paint brush. I think the loctite will work just fine.

[McMark]

Loctite 518 (the red stuff) is necessary for the oil pump.

[sww914]

I wouldn't use K2 on the case halves, that's for gaskets. I use Loctite 574 or the Wurth equivalent for the case halves.

[stephenaki]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif)
Forgot that doing an edit doesn't bump it.

[r_towle]

Take it apart, check the bearings.
You may have a bearing that did not line up with one of the dowel pins.
It should spin freely.

At anypoint in the process of building the lower end if you have problems spinning the crank shaft, back up and remove everything you did from the last time you spun the crankshaft.
Each time you add a rod...or cylinder and piston, spin the crank by hand.

Rich

[Bleyseng]

Take it apart, check the bearings.
You may have a bearing that did not line up with one of the dowel pins.
It should spin freely.

At anypoint in the process of building the lower end if you have problems spinning the crank shaft, back up and remove everything you did from the last time you spun the crankshaft.
Each time you add a rod...or cylinder and piston, spin the crank by hand.

Rich

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[stephenaki]

Thanks all. It bugged me to no end so I did just that, tore it apart again but this time, I put the bearings in then made some alignment marks on the 1 and 4 bearing.

This time, when the boy and I put the crank back in we were able to line up the tick marks and ensure the bearing dowel pins seated properly. Put her back together and 'TA DA!!' she spun flawlessly and easily. Now I am happy. Will load some pictures up a bit later once I get the child bathed and prepped for bed.

Again, thanks for all the responses. Hopefully I can get the rest of the motor put together next weekend.

[r_towle]

Great news.
Its a common issue with the dowel pins.
That is why you turn it each time...especially as you torque down the bolts on the case...that is when you will know...it should always spin freely.

The other place to pay attention is after you put a piston/cylinder in place. If you mess up the oil ring and bend it, it will provide alot of resistance...
You will need a new oil ring, but its better than a whole new piston and cylinder...
It should never be hard to rotate until you put in the plugs...then you have compression to fight against...all the way up to that point you can rotate it by hand.
Pre-oil everything with 30 weight oil..
Rich

[Mark Henry]

It might not be "hard" but the rings do add more resistance.

[stephenaki]

Distributor washer question.

As I read through the re-assembly instructions and wait on a couple of things my one manual talks about using a dowel to insert the distributor washer. I kept all my parts together when I disassembled the motor but did not see a "distributor washer" nor did I find one in the case.

Can someone enlighten me on this? Do I have to order a special one or can I pick one up at any auto store and what are the specs if so.

[Cap'n Krusty]

It's a thick washer that slips over the end of the distributor drive pinion. There are shallow radial grooves in both sides....... You MUST have this washer, and you can't find it at an auto parts store. The Cap'n

[hcdmueller]

Check your distributor drive pinion. My washer was stuck to the bottom of it. I didn't find it until I went to reassemble my engine.

[stephenaki]

Thanks, I will take a look this evening after work and see if it is on the drive pinion.