Engine Will Not Turn Off Options

[charliew]

Start it up and don't stop till you get to hershey.

[charliew]

Better idea. Pack a coupla pair of underware and socks, your amp meter some tape and maybe a piece of 16 ga wire. Start it up and don't turn it off till you get to hershey.

[tdi1970]

Better idea. Pack a coupla pair of underware and socks, your amp meter some tape and maybe a piece of 16 ga wire. Start it up and don't turn it off till you get to hershey.

I certainly don't have to worry about the turning it off part! Going to be a beautiful day here in PA for the swap meet and a drive down the beautiful PA turnpike.

[charliew]

shoot if you are in PA. you don't need any extra underware.

[tdi1970]

shoot if you are in PA. you don't need any extra underware.

It is an easy day trip from where I live which is on north east side of Philly. Need to make sure my back lights are working properly first! Car not really driven over last year.

[tdi1970]

Took 1970 1.7 to mechanic to lookover for body/frame integrity after battery leak due to voltage regulator malfunction. Mechanic cleaned battery box (what was left of new one) with water and called to tell me car will not turn off. Had car for many years and never a problem.

Mechanic replaced ignition but still will not turn off. I replaced brain/computer which did not work either. Made sure grounds were clean but otherwise, at loss??? Any suggestions?

Considering putting a kill switch in and be done with it but prefer to figure out problem.

Me again. I started pulling wires off the coil. I had a white one on the + and green on - that each shut the engine off individually. The green goes to the distributor so it makes sense the white one is the source for the coil that continues to carry a charge. I did not see a white wire per wiring diagram to coil either. There is a white wire that goes to the Supplementary air valve that is a very close neighbor per the wiring diagram. I pulled the air filter and found a connection right on top of the motor directly below the filter. Seemed like a good spot for a Supplementary air valve but what do I know??!! It also was located very close to where the white wire comes out of the wiring harness. So, I plugged the white wire in and car continues to shut off with the key. I am ecstatic (to say the least) and take a test drive of about 5 miles on a hot day. I turn the car off and within a couple of minutes go to start it and it just turns over, no apparent spark. The coil is extremely hot, fyi, and don't ever recall it getting that hot while running in the past. I no longer have a car that will not shut off; I have a car that will not start. My neighbors got a kick out of it. I went to cover the car the next day and try and start just for the heck of it and voila, it starts right up. Obviously cannot drive car now since not sure when it will no longer start. Any thoughts? Does it appear I corrected the initial problem and now have a new one, or did I never really solve the original problem and have a new symptom.

As always, Thanks for any Ideas. Also unsure if this is the right place to put my addendum.

Tdi

[ericread]

Dave, explain how a single element bulb would make this happen please..

The "buttons" that carry the power are in different places in the single- and dual-filament sockets. I believe that the single-filament bulb contact will touch both of the contacts in the dual-filament socket. That bridges those together.

When the one gets power sent to it via the "parking light" feature, it goes to the other circuit, which is tied into the ignition switch circuit. Which means it sends power to (among other things) the coil.

Puzzled the heck out of me when it happened! I figured it out mostly by un-doing the last thing I had done to the car before the weirdness started happening.

--DD

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

This is the funniest damn thing I have seen in the past three years of following this board. Don't get me wrong, I religiously believe anything I see that comes from DD, but just the fact a single-element bulb could cause such a situation makes me call into question some of this great "German Engineering" I hear about!

Eric Read

[underthetire]

Had a similar problem on a bug. My buddy hooked the coil up backwards. Double check + to + on the coil. They will work backwards but get mighty hot mighty quick.

[tdi1970]

Had a similar problem on a bug. My buddy hooked the coil up backwards. Double check + to + on the coil. They will work backwards but get mighty hot mighty quick.

The wiring diagram does not indicate which wires are positive side and which are negative. Anyone know? I have a red/black now hooked up plus and black/purple and green (to coil) hooked up on negative.

Eric Read...if I didn't know better, I would say you have a picture of my car on your ID.

tdi

[Dave_Darling]

That's the way it hooks up, the points and the tach to the (-) terminal, and power to the (+) terminal...

The white wire: Check for electrical continuity with the fuel pump fuse on the relay board. (I forget which of the two fuses it is.) If it has continuity, it's the AAR wire. Look for a red wire coming out of the bottom of the AAR, that is where it would plug in.

--DD

[tdi1970]

That's the way it hooks up, the points and the tach to the (-) terminal, and power to the (+) terminal...

The white wire: Check for electrical continuity with the fuel pump fuse on the relay board. (I forget which of the two fuses it is.) If it has continuity, it's the AAR wire. Look for a red wire coming out of the bottom of the AAR, that is where it would plug in.

--DD

What is "AAR"? Also, what do you mean by continuity? Again, just a backyard mechanic here. thx tdi

[SLITS]

AAR - Auxillary Air Regulator .... adds additional air on cold startup. It's powered on the same circuit as the fuel pump.

On a 2.0, there is a red lead that connects into the white lead on the engine harness.

On a 1.7, I don't know what color the lead is from the AAR ... schematic shows white ... I haven't owned a 1.7 in a LONG time.

[tdi1970]

AAR - Auxillary Air Regulator .... adds additional air on cold startup. It's powered on the same circuit as the fuel pump.

On a 2.0, there is a red lead that connects into the white lead on the engine harness.

On a 1.7, I don't know what color the lead is from the AAR ... schematic shows white ... I haven't owned a 1.7 in a LONG time.

I don't see an AAR on schematic that I have (Haynes). Assume then that is NOT same as Supplementary Air Valve? I hooked white wire up to valve directly below air filter close to motor as per prior note in this post.

Also, haven't owned a 2.0 in long time and more than willing to switch for awhile! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Thanks for response.

Tom

[SLITS]

It is the same as the "Supplementary Air Valve". Either the Germans were drunk or the American translator was drunk and the Haynes people switch terms .... take your choice. In either case, it is known here as "The AAR"

On your car ... the wire should run from the SAV/AAR to pin 12 on the relay board (12 pin engine harness). Pin 12 on the relay board is tied to pin 13 on the main body harness (14 pin connector on relay board) which also is the fuel pump feed thru fuses and relays.

On page 40 .... it is item #5. On page 44, figure 2.12 you can catch a glimpse of it just above the cold start valve. On page 45, figure 2.14 is the AAR/SAV.

[Dave_Darling]

Yup!

Check for continuity with either an ohmmeter or a beeper. Unplug the wire at both ends (when possible) and put your two test leads on the ends of the wire. If your beeper goes beep, or the ohmmeter shows very low resistance, you have continuity.

A test lamp requires a bit more setup. My multimeter has a "diode tester" that beeps when current can flow between the test leads, so that is what I use.

--DD

[tdi1970]

It is the same as the "Supplementary Air Valve". Either the Germans were drunk or the American translator was drunk and the Haynes people switch terms .... take your choice. In either case, it is known here as "The AAR"

On your car ... the wire should run from the SAV/AAR to pin 12 on the relay board (12 pin engine harness). Pin 12 on the relay board is tied to pin 13 on the main body harness (14 pin connector on relay board) which also is the fuel pump feed thru fuses and relays.

On page 40 .... it is item #5. On page 44, figure 2.12 you can catch a glimpse of it just above the cold start valve. On page 45, figure 2.14 is the AAR/SAV.

Really appreciate your help! Will look Saturday. I noticed there is a reference on 2.14 on pg 45 as well. I assume this is independent of my coil over heating? If I did hook up correctly, certainly didn't notice any change in car performance. Again, thanks for your (very specific) help!

[tdi1970]

Yup!

Check for continuity with either an ohmmeter or a beeper. Unplug the wire at both ends (when possible) and put your two test leads on the ends of the wire. If your beeper goes beep, or the ohmmeter shows very low resistance, you have continuity.

A test lamp requires a bit more setup. My multimeter has a "diode tester" that beeps when current can flow between the test leads, so that is what I use.

--DD

Thanks for the clarification. Will check on Saturday. This should not have anything to do with coil that is now, apparently overheating...correct?

[tdi1970]

Yup!

Check for continuity with either an ohmmeter or a beeper. Unplug the wire at both ends (when possible) and put your two test leads on the ends of the wire. If your beeper goes beep, or the ohmmeter shows very low resistance, you have continuity.

A test lamp requires a bit more setup. My multimeter has a "diode tester" that beeps when current can flow between the test leads, so that is what I use.

--DD

Thanks for the clarification. Will check on Saturday. This should not have anything to do with coil that is now, apparently overheating...correct?

Saturday update. I had connected the white wire (originally connected to coil by mechanic) to thermo switch not AAV/Supplemental Air Valve as previously reported. Still not sure what white wire goes to? Wiring diagram shows white wire into cold start valve and white wire out to thermoswitch. Cold start valve has two white wires into one connection in with no white wire out?

Could not tell from Haynes what thermoswitchc does and wonder what effect having on performance (if any) but guessing it is sensor for cold starts.

Ran for about 5-10 minutes and coil did not overheat and will continue to monitor.