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> Axle Nuts are Frozen Nuts
bandjoey
post Apr 25 2009, 05:02 PM
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Tried to pull off the rear axle nut - the big one with the cotter pin. Soaked it in pb blaster for a day and then used the 445lb. impact wrench - full power wouldn't budget the nut. Applied heat with a torch and still stuck. Other than cutting off the nut - both sides - any other suggestions? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) Bill
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J P Stein
post Apr 25 2009, 05:08 PM
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3/4 inch breaker bar with a 5-6 foot cheater.
I needed that when I took mine off for the first time in 20-30 years(WAG).
Keeping the other axle from turning is a similar exercise.......good luck
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Dr. Roger
post Apr 25 2009, 05:08 PM
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i always liked using a cold punch or chisel in the castellation of the nut. Driving the nut loose.

Good luck. I broke a Craftsman 3/4" breaker bar doing this job.
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PanelBilly
post Apr 25 2009, 05:21 PM
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My ex-father-in-law has a tool bench loaded with BIG stuff for working on his bull dozer and tractors. I used a huge breaker bar and when that didn't work, I used a 5 or 6 foot bar that attached to the breaker. Next time I destroy the nut.
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dangrouche
post Apr 25 2009, 05:33 PM
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[quote name='Dr. Roger' date='Apr 25 2009, 04:08 PM' post='1162132']
i always liked using a cold punch or chisel in the castellation of the nut. Driving the nut loose.

Good luck. I broke a Craftsman 3/4" breaker bar doing this job.
[/quote

I guess I have been lucky on my 914; each time I put the car in gear, on level ground, chocks in front and rear of the tire, used 18 inch 3/4" craftsman breaker bar with the socket, no extension. On the passenger side, I face the wheel, position the breaker bar at the 9 o'clock position, then I stand on the end of breaker bar (put some sort of padding between the breaker bar and the fender) with both of my feet and gently press down with my body weight (i'm only a buck and a half). Man, once it gives, you feel the nut just give ever so slightly, then reposition the bar some more to get more swing room. I guess if I had a frozen rusted nut, I would add torch from propane cylinder before stepping down on the breaker. Also I guess adding a 3/4" steel pipe with friend on the end, two feet back from the bumper may also be an idea worth trying.
good luck
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Katmanken
post Apr 25 2009, 05:38 PM
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I got a 4 foot long pipe wrench if all else fails.

Sometimes a piece of sturdy tubing is required to slip over it to lengthen the moment arm.

Ken
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SUNAB914
post Apr 25 2009, 07:20 PM
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Super Long braker bar. Get it, it will come.
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914werke
post Apr 25 2009, 09:11 PM
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Its actually not really that bad, but you have to have the right tools. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
I went to the local Home warehouse place and picked up a 3' section of
3.5" angle iron ... drilled 2 holes in one end to mach up with the Lugs on
the R. hub/disk ...screw on with a pair of lug bolts and, as was mentioned
previously, use a 3/4 breaker bar with a 3' pipe to help and they come right off.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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bandjoey
post Apr 25 2009, 09:30 PM
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Glad I'm not the only one needing a cheater. I've got some 6' fence pipe in the back I'll try. Thanks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
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VOX
post Apr 25 2009, 10:30 PM
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we had the same problem with one of our castle nuts, we wd-40 that thing over and over and did everything we could im a big guy 235, breaker bar + cheater bar still no good. today we had taken out the air tools and set it to max, it was still no good but we wd-40 it again, then waited for the compressor to have a full tank, and the nut finally let loose.
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dbgriffith75
post Apr 26 2009, 07:14 AM
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QUOTE(bandjoey @ Apr 25 2009, 06:02 PM) *

Tried to pull off the rear axle nut - the big one with the cotter pin. Soaked it in pb blaster for a day and then used the 445lb. impact wrench - full power wouldn't budget the nut. Applied heat with a torch and still stuck. Other than cutting off the nut - both sides - any other suggestions? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) Bill


Why are you needing to remove the axles? Just curious, because when I was removing my axles, I was told that heat was not a good thing for the wheel bearings so you may need to add that to your list. That's been some months ago so maybe somebody needs to verify that again.

Also, try tightening the nut first. In my experience, sometimes frozen nuts ( (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) ) will break loose if you try tightening them.
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ConeDodger
post Apr 26 2009, 07:18 AM
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I had one side come off without too much trouble but the other side required a couple days of PB Blaster soaks and my air wrench set to MFT with the T meaning torque! Spun it right off but I had buggered up the threads so I bought a used one from Bruce Stone...
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Cap'n Krusty
post Apr 26 2009, 08:29 AM
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QUOTE(VOX @ Apr 25 2009, 09:30 PM) *

we had the same problem with one of our castle nuts, we wd-40 that thing over and over and did everything we could im a big guy 235, breaker bar + cheater bar still no good. today we had taken out the air tools and set it to max, it was still no good but we wd-40 it again, then waited for the compressor to have a full tank, and the nut finally let loose.


Applying a DRUM FULL of WD 40 isn't gonna make any difference, as it's NOT a penetrating oil. It's a "water displacer", and isn't meant to do the job of a penetrating oil. Get yourself a product meant for the job ........... The Cap'n
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jaxdream
post Apr 26 2009, 08:38 AM
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If it's that hard to get off , then chances are your going to bugger the nut up anyway , try dremel cutting it with cutoff wheel on one side, it will free up the tightness allowing the nut to come off eaisier , nuts are not that expenseive , probaly cheaper than buying new tools. Antiseze the axle splines and nut on reinstallation.
My $.02

Jaxdream
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bandjoey
post Apr 26 2009, 09:40 AM
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QUOTE(jaxdream @ Apr 26 2009, 09:38 AM) *

If it's that hard to get off , then chances are your going to bugger the nut up anyway , try dremel cutting it with cutoff wheel on one side, it will free up the tightness allowing the nut to come off eaisier , nuts are not that expenseive , probaly cheaper than buying new tools. Antiseze the axle splines and nut on reinstallation.
My $.02

Jaxdream


Stripping the arms for paint and rebuild so bearing aren't a problem but don't want to mess up the axle if possible .
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type2man
post Apr 26 2009, 10:17 AM
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I use a 36mm socket welded to a piece of iron, have someone step on the brakes while you stand on the other end of it. The bend is so it will not scratch the paint. I use it on all my VW's too. Works everytime!!!


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VOX
post Apr 26 2009, 02:58 PM
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thanks cap'n thought wd-40 was just lubricant, next time i'll get some pb-blaster or other penetrating oils.
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firstknight13
post Apr 26 2009, 06:46 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) i just did this...works just fine..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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firstknight13
post Apr 26 2009, 06:50 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) so i put the nuts on the lugs and took my pick axe off of the handel....wedged the pick head X thru the bolts and to the ground....breaker bar to the big f...n nut and the pick axe head kept the axel from turning....use a lg pipe for more leverage....no problem.....may have to jump on it too!!! .....ray
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Pat Garvey
post Apr 26 2009, 06:53 PM
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QUOTE(J P Stein @ Apr 25 2009, 05:08 PM) *

3/4 inch breaker bar with a 5-6 foot cheater.
I needed that when I took mine off for the first time in 20-30 years(WAG).
Keeping the other axle from turning is a similar exercise.......good luck

You've got it! I use the handle from my floor jack. Jump, jump. pops loose, though the other side should be on the ground. If you're 200 pounds, like me, you can PB it. attach the breaker & stand on it. Be payient. After 3-5 minutes it will usually start to break. If not, do a jig on the breaker. It WILL bust loose!
Pat
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