Tried to pull off the rear axle nut - the big one with the cotter pin. Soaked it in pb blaster for a day and then used the 445lb. impact wrench - full power wouldn't budget the nut. Applied heat with a torch and still stuck. Other than cutting off the nut - both sides - any other suggestions? Bill

3/4 inch breaker bar with a 5-6 foot cheater.
I needed that when I took mine off for the first time in 20-30 years(WAG).
Keeping the other axle from turning is a similar exercise.......good luck

i always liked using a cold punch or chisel in the castellation of the nut. Driving the nut loose.

Good luck. I broke a Craftsman 3/4" breaker bar doing this job.

My ex-father-in-law has a tool bench loaded with BIG stuff for working on his bull dozer and tractors. I used a huge breaker bar and when that didn't work, I used a 5 or 6 foot bar that attached to the breaker. Next time I destroy the nut.

[quote name='Dr. Roger' date='Apr 25 2009, 04:08 PM' post='1162132']
i always liked using a cold punch or chisel in the castellation of the nut. Driving the nut loose.

Good luck. I broke a Craftsman 3/4" breaker bar doing this job.
[/quote

I guess I have been lucky on my 914; each time I put the car in gear, on level ground, chocks in front and rear of the tire, used 18 inch 3/4" craftsman breaker bar with the socket, no extension. On the passenger side, I face the wheel, position the breaker bar at the 9 o'clock position, then I stand on the end of breaker bar (put some sort of padding between the breaker bar and the fender) with both of my feet and gently press down with my body weight (i'm only a buck and a half). Man, once it gives, you feel the nut just give ever so slightly, then reposition the bar some more to get more swing room. I guess if I had a frozen rusted nut, I would add torch from propane cylinder before stepping down on the breaker. Also I guess adding a 3/4" steel pipe with friend on the end, two feet back from the bumper may also be an idea worth trying.
good luck

I got a 4 foot long pipe wrench if all else fails.

Sometimes a piece of sturdy tubing is required to slip over it to lengthen the moment arm.

Ken

Super Long braker bar. Get it, it will come.

Its actually not really that bad, but you have to have the right tools.
I went to the local Home warehouse place and picked up a 3' section of
3.5" angle iron ... drilled 2 holes in one end to mach up with the Lugs on
the R. hub/disk ...screw on with a pair of lug bolts and, as was mentioned
previously, use a 3/4 breaker bar with a 3' pipe to help and they come right off.

Glad I'm not the only one needing a cheater. I've got some 6' fence pipe in the back I'll try. Thanks.

we had the same problem with one of our castle nuts, we wd-40 that thing over and over and did everything we could im a big guy 235, breaker bar + cheater bar still no good. today we had taken out the air tools and set it to max, it was still no good but we wd-40 it again, then waited for the compressor to have a full tank, and the nut finally let loose.

Why are you needing to remove the axles? Just curious, because when I was removing my axles, I was told that heat was not a good thing for the wheel bearings so you may need to add that to your list. That's been some months ago so maybe somebody needs to verify that again.

Also, try tightening the nut first. In my experience, sometimes frozen nuts ( ) will break loose if you try tightening them.

I had one side come off without too much trouble but the other side required a couple days of PB Blaster soaks and my air wrench set to MFT with the T meaning torque! Spun it right off but I had buggered up the threads so I bought a used one from Bruce Stone...

Applying a DRUM FULL of WD 40 isn't gonna make any difference, as it's NOT a penetrating oil. It's a "water displacer", and isn't meant to do the job of a penetrating oil. Get yourself a product meant for the job ........... The Cap'n

If it's that hard to get off , then chances are your going to bugger the nut up anyway , try dremel cutting it with cutoff wheel on one side, it will free up the tightness allowing the nut to come off eaisier , nuts are not that expenseive , probaly cheaper than buying new tools. Antiseze the axle splines and nut on reinstallation.
My $.02

Jaxdream

s

Stripping the arms for paint and rebuild so bearing aren't a problem but don't want to mess up the axle if possible .

I use a 36mm socket welded to a piece of iron, have someone step on the brakes while you stand on the other end of it. The bend is so it will not scratch the paint. I use it on all my VW's too. Works everytime!!!

thanks cap'n thought wd-40 was just lubricant, next time i'll get some pb-blaster or other penetrating oils.

i just did this...works just fine.....

so i put the nuts on the lugs and took my pick axe off of the handel....wedged the pick head X thru the bolts and to the ground....breaker bar to the big f...n nut and the pick axe head kept the axel from turning....use a lg pipe for more leverage....no problem.....may have to jump on it too!!! .....ray

You've got it! I use the handle from my floor jack. Jump, jump. pops loose, though the other side should be on the ground. If you're 200 pounds, like me, you can PB it. attach the breaker & stand on it. Be payient. After 3-5 minutes it will usually start to break. If not, do a jig on the breaker. It WILL bust loose!
Pat

couldn't work on mine today...honeydo day...but will let ya'll know tomorrow how this works out. Technology? Ha! Brute Force? The 914 Way!

Having someone to be inside and stand on the brakes seemed to solve lots of the chocks/opposite wheel turn/torque bar issues and it came loose with a 4' extension on a 3/4" breaker bar.

The tightening then loosening acts strangely does sometimes work pretty well, and that is even when I don't make a mistake.

3' breaker bar parallel to the ground. Use a floor jack to lift the end of the breaker bar. This has worked with a couple hard to break loose axle nuts.

I just bought a 600 ft/lb impact wrench. Haven't had a problem getting one off since. Sometimes it takes a little while and still requires some penetrating fluid as well as a few tighten/untighten sequences, but they always come off. Even with the arm off the car and on the bench.

Sometimes I place the breaker bar against the ground or frame and turn the starter over to break front pulleys loose on motor cranks. That might work by putting the car in low or reverse and hit the starter.