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> possible oil starvation when driving., noticed this at Hershey.. Help!
ChrisFoley
post Apr 26 2009, 09:37 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Apr 26 2009, 11:26 PM) *

why not just use a stock pump?

Rich

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ChrisFoley
post Apr 26 2009, 09:51 PM
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QUOTE(esses62 @ Apr 26 2009, 06:46 PM) *

"so who didnt develop a car problem at hershey.??

guy next to me noticed his rear wheels were both rubbing.

i noticed my car dosnt want to start anymore

zach has a oil starvation problem

the white car (apon arrival) was grindin and smelling very clutchy

anyone eles??

blink.gif

and i thought it was just me"

Drove to Hershey Saturday morning (200 miles) with Ray, Rich, Tim, Chris Foley, Jeff, and Jerry.

When we left the Palmirya Hotel to head out to Hershey Saturday morning. My car didn't want to start right up. It took a few cranks but I got her started. Tim's tangerine 1.7 wouldn't start either. Jeff lent a hand with a Quarter. Damn she started right up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Got to fix that hot start problem. Other than that drove about 400 miles this weekend no major problems (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

Scott
73 2.0


My 1.8 ran flawlessly. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bootyshake.gif)
70mph average speed over 300 mile return trip distance, 185 degree peak oil temp, 86mph peak speed somewhere on the Merritt Parkway in CT, 25+ mpg with about 1000 miles on the engine.
Just over 3400rpm at 75mph. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
I have never driven a 914 that far before. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
4 hours 15 minutes non-stop except for a quick pee break
I love the sound of my Tangerine Exhaust, especially with the window down. Sweet music! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
The dual 40 Dellortos are a bit loud though. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

Oh, that was Ed with the quarter on your starter.
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yeahmag
post Apr 26 2009, 10:12 PM
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An easy and surefire way to check is to remove the oil filter and see if it pumps oil out. If it doesn't you broke the tang off your pump. Did you get this from Jake? Was it all ready clearanced?
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VaccaRabite
post Apr 27 2009, 06:20 AM
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QUOTE(yeahmag @ Apr 26 2009, 11:12 PM) *

An easy and surefire way to check is to remove the oil filter and see if it pumps oil out. If it doesn't you broke the tang off your pump. Did you get this from Jake? Was it all ready clearanced?



Maybe?
The guy I bought the engine from got some parts from Jake, some parts from other places.

When I pull it (maybe this weekend if I can wrangle time) I'll find out what I am looking it. I wanted to pull the exhaust off for ceramic coating anyhow after the MEI.

Zach
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yeahmag
post Apr 27 2009, 11:22 AM
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No need to pull it for this test. Just spin off the oil filter and crank it over with a drain pan and the coil wire removed.
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type2man
post Apr 27 2009, 11:41 AM
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QUOTE(yeahmag @ Apr 27 2009, 01:22 PM) *

No need to pull it for this test. Just spin off the oil filter and crank it over with a drain pan and the coil wire removed.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) And if you see no oil coming out, do not run it anymore until you find out the problem. Your tang probably broke off the oil pump or the gear on the pump wasnt pressed in properly onto the shaft(I've seen it). I would go with a factory pump, they work great.


Patrick
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Dr Evil
post Apr 27 2009, 01:25 PM
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Happy happy joy joy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) Do we really need to do the filter test since the oil pump is either bad or there is a monster blockage in the case? I am not a gainst a stock pump, this is a 2056 and if stock works I would support Zach using one.
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yeahmag
post Apr 27 2009, 01:26 PM
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I was suggesting that as a final idiot test only...
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type11969
post Apr 27 2009, 01:44 PM
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Zach-

I have a couple of stock pumps if you need one. I think the 30mm oil pumps are overkill too and can lead to hotter oil (saw that in my beetle), but that isn't your issue here. I also have a 30mm t1 pump floating around somewhere too that should be set up properly for a t4 if you want to stick with a 30mm unit.

-Chris
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rhodyguy
post Apr 27 2009, 03:12 PM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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your sump pickup tube has the extension on it for the tuna can, correct?
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VaccaRabite
post Apr 27 2009, 03:41 PM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Apr 27 2009, 04:12 PM) *

your sump pickup tube has the extension on it for the tuna can, correct?


Yes, but I am thinking about removing the can. I don't like that it hangs lower then the engine bar.
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r_towle
post Apr 27 2009, 03:50 PM
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QUOTE(esses62 @ Apr 27 2009, 03:46 PM) *

QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Apr 26 2009, 11:51 PM) *

QUOTE(esses62 @ Apr 26 2009, 06:46 PM) *

"so who didnt develop a car problem at hershey.??

Drove to Hershey Saturday morning (200 miles) with Ray, Rich, Tim, Chris Foley, Jeff, and Jerry.

When we left the Palmirya Hotel to head out to Hershey Saturday morning. My car didn't want to start right up. It took a few cranks but I got her started. Tim's tangerine 1.7 wouldn't start either. Jeff lent a hand with a Quarter. Damn she started right up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Got to fix that hot start problem. Other than that drove about 400 miles this weekend no major problems (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)

Scott
73 2.0




Oh, that was Ed with the quarter on your starter.



That is correct Chris. Tell Ed I'm sorry about the mix up. For some reason he reminds me of a Jeff. Well thank him anyway for getting Tim's heap out of the way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

How does he do that Quarter trick anyway. Is he jumping the stater solenoid? Or is he doing something by the alternator?

Just so happens Sunday night went to get into the car to pull it into the garage and the car wouldn't start. Headlights were dim. Put a meter on the battery it was testing at 12.5volts at rest. Would love to know how Ed does it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

Nice driving with the two of you on the way down. Man your ass must hurt with those seats


Jump large 12vdc positive battery terminal at the starter to the small yellow wire terminal on the solenoid.

Rich
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Dr Evil
post Apr 27 2009, 03:54 PM
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QUOTE(yeahmag @ Apr 27 2009, 03:26 PM) *

I was suggesting that as a final idiot test only...


Not being down on your idea (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
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yeahmag
post Apr 27 2009, 05:00 PM
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You almost made me cry... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Apr 27 2009, 02:54 PM) *

QUOTE(yeahmag @ Apr 27 2009, 03:26 PM) *

I was suggesting that as a final idiot test only...


Not being down on your idea (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

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Rubber Boa
post Apr 28 2009, 10:50 PM
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A year ago or so I build a 2.4+ 2L 200hrp. and when I put in the big volume pump I had to grid off the input paddle because it was to long? thick can't remember. but that sucker needs a lot of oil and I have never had the problem. The man i worked with told me I would have problems if I did not do this mod. I will ask him tomorrow what we did and why.

Boa
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charliew
post Apr 29 2009, 10:58 AM
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If it is the old bug deal the cam gears set at different depths inside the case, one has more dish than the other and the pumps need to match the depth so that full contact is between them. Unneeded volume (more volume is how you make more pressure) means a lot higher oil temps when the oil doesn't have anywhere to go (I think 340 df is boiling) and sometimes boiling makes air bubbles and air don't work in bearings.
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VaccaRabite
post Apr 29 2009, 07:30 PM
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I'm going to be buying one of Jakes cam kits tomorrow since I am splitting the case when I autopsy the engine. When I talk to him, I am going to ask him about overpressure with a 30mm pump.
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r_towle
post Apr 29 2009, 08:17 PM
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Zach,
To ensure that you learn what is going on....get a set of calipers and measure the pump...the length of the tang..the depth of the hole in the case and the depth of the tang in the camshaft.

This is where the issues arise.
All the pumps work in the original location....the issues happen when you use a pump designed for a type one and put it in a type 4.
Its all depth related, not diameter, and not to much oil pressure.

RIch
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type11969
post Apr 29 2009, 09:04 PM
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It is also possible that if the cam gear was not spotfaced for the cam bolts and the backside of the pump was clearanced instead that the shaft supporting the driven pump gear came loose and wreaked some havoc . . .

Can you pull a t1 pump from a 914 without pulling the fan housing/dropping the engine? Or the stock pump for that matter . . .

-Chris
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VaccaRabite
post Apr 30 2009, 09:47 AM
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QUOTE(type11969 @ Apr 29 2009, 10:04 PM) *

It is also possible that if the cam gear was not spotfaced for the cam bolts and the backside of the pump was clearanced instead that the shaft supporting the driven pump gear came loose and wreaked some havoc . . .

Can you pull a t1 pump from a 914 without pulling the fan housing/dropping the engine? Or the stock pump for that matter . . .

-Chris


Nope. Engine has to come down, engine bar has to be removed, and fan shroud has to come off.

Zach
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