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> Do you have to pull the engine to change the clutch?, I need to do a clutch change and had some questions...
Cire
post May 3 2009, 08:13 PM
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I think its time to change the clutch and had some questions.

1 - Do you have to drop the entire Engine to do the change?

2 - Whats the quickest cheapest way to get it done?

3 - Should I drain the tranny oil or just drop, change and replace?

I realize that there are a lot of things that -should- be done, but I am one of the folks that has lost my job. I need to get the car back up and running for as little as possible. So changing syncros would be great, I might not have the funds to buy 1st and 2nd ($80 each?), but might not be possible. I love hearing the suggestions but the budget has to come first.

Thanks gang.

Eric
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r_towle
post May 3 2009, 08:23 PM
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Jack up car and put on jack stands
Get jack under center rear of motor, just snug it up.
Remove negative cable from the battery
Remove the clutch cable.
Remove the speedo cable.
Remove the rear shifter bar.
Remove the wiring from the starter, and remove the starter.
Remove both rear tranny bolts that hold the tranny to the body.
using the jack that is under the motor, slowly lower the rear of the tranny.
REmove the muffler now that you can reach all the bolts easily.
Oh, remove the reverse electrical plug.
Remove the axles from the tranny side only.
Now remove all the remaining nuts that are holding the tranny to the motor.
With the tranny at a good angle downwards...pull it out and down.
It weighs about 75 lbs, but I can do this on my back if properly positioned.
Done.
Then you need to unbolt the pressure plate and remove it.
The clutch disk falls out now.

then put it all back together.

Rich
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Chris Pincetich
post May 3 2009, 08:30 PM
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It is possible to yank out the transaxle (drain it to save weight lifting it off) then with the engine well supported you have access to the clutch. I did mine with the engine out. In a way, it is easier to remove the whole unit since the top drivers side bolt for the transaxle is such a pain in the ar$$e to get off with the engine in. Only first and reverse gears are easy to work on, others are behind the middle plate and require you to separate the transaxle. New first gear parts can be more expensive than you think!
Good luck with the 914 and finding a new job (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Chris Pincetich
post May 3 2009, 08:31 PM
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EDIT -woops (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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PeeGreen 914
post May 3 2009, 08:31 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) not too hard to do. Just messy.
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Cire
post May 3 2009, 08:45 PM
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QUOTE(Phoenix 914-6GT @ May 3 2009, 07:31 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) not too hard to do. Just messy.


= ) I can deal with Messy. I just want to make sure I can handle the rest. I have changed a tranny in a vw bug before but not the 914. It sounds pretty straight forward.

Where is this top bolt that is hard to get to? Any secrets to get it out?

Thanks again everyone!!!

Eric
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PeeGreen 914
post May 3 2009, 10:50 PM
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I have a six and don't remember type IVs that well but I recall the top bolt that is a pain really isn't too bad if you have the right tools. It is one of the starter bolts and you need to have something on both sides to keep the bolt from turning while you take the nut out. I recall if it is on right the sheet metal aids in this but if it isn't you need to keep a wrench on it if you can.
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Cap'n Krusty
post May 3 2009, 11:01 PM
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Drain the tranny to save weight? Are you nuts? You're gonna save less than 5lbs out of about 80+/-. Top bolt hard? Nope. Irritating, maybe. Shoot the top bolts (in the engine compartment) with a good penetrant (WD 40 IS NOT a penetrant!), loosen the nuts, spin 'em off while keeping a little outward pressure on the bolt. BTW, a proper clutch job includes surfacing the flywheel and changing the 2 oil seals, as well as all the hard parts.

The Cap'n
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Todd Enlund
post May 4 2009, 12:20 AM
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If yer gunna change the clutch without dropping the tranny, disconnect the #^&$%@ ground strap first... it will give you a few more inches of aft movement on the tranny.
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Cire
post May 4 2009, 09:31 AM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ May 3 2009, 10:01 PM) *

Drain the tranny to save weight? Are you nuts? You're gonna save less than 5lbs out of about 80+/-. Top bolt hard? Nope. Irritating, maybe. Shoot the top bolts (in the engine compartment) with a good penetrant (WD 40 IS NOT a penetrant!), loosen the nuts, spin 'em off while keeping a little outward pressure on the bolt. BTW, a proper clutch job includes surfacing the flywheel and changing the 2 oil seals, as well as all the hard parts.

The Cap'n


Thanks for the good info.

Where is the cheapest place to get a 914 clutch kit? If I am trying to save money is it cheaper to buy the clutch kit or only the parts I must replace? Tough one without knowing whats bad inside.

Eric
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Cap'n Krusty
post May 4 2009, 09:47 AM
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Call GPR, (800) 321-5432. List members, good guys.

The Cap'n
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krazykonrad
post May 4 2009, 08:13 PM
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QUOTE(Todd Enlund @ May 3 2009, 10:20 PM) *

If yer gunna change the clutch without dropping the tranny, disconnect the #^&$%@ ground strap first... it will give you a few more inches of aft movement on the tranny.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

When I dropped my engine and tranny, gravity disconnected the strap for me!
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Spoke
post May 5 2009, 05:02 AM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ May 3 2009, 10:23 PM) *

Jack up car and put on jack stands
Get jack under center rear of motor, just snug it up.
Remove negative cable from the battery
Remove the clutch cable.
Remove the speedo cable.
Remove the rear shifter bar.
Remove the wiring from the starter, and remove the starter.
Remove both rear tranny bolts that hold the tranny to the body.
using the jack that is under the motor, slowly lower the rear of the tranny.
REmove the muffler now that you can reach all the bolts easily.
Oh, remove the reverse electrical plug.
Remove the axles from the tranny side only.
Now remove all the remaining nuts that are holding the tranny to the motor.
With the tranny at a good angle downwards...pull it out and down.
It weighs about 75 lbs, but I can do this on my back if properly positioned.
Done.
Then you need to unbolt the pressure plate and remove it.
The clutch disk falls out now.

then put it all back together.

Rich


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Changing the clutch isn't that bad of a job. I did mine like Rich describes. I would think that it would be much easier with the transmission out of the car. I didn't have any trouble with bolts or anything.

The only think I would add to Rich's description is to get a clutch alignment tool so the clutch plate is lined up with the engine when putting the pressure plate back on.

Oh, yeah, it is messy. Plan on throwing your clothes away afterwards.
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Cire
post May 5 2009, 09:57 AM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ May 3 2009, 10:01 PM) *

Top bolt hard? Nope. Irritating, maybe. Shoot the top bolts (in the engine compartment) with a good penetrant (WD 40 IS NOT a penetrant!), loosen the nuts, spin 'em off while keeping a little outward pressure on the bolt.

The Cap'n



.... cough cough....

Well, everything is out, off and away and the only item left... Top Bolt. = ) I cant get a socket on it. My wrenches are to long to get in there. Shesh. I even lowered the thing a few inches but its a matter of getting a sock or wrench on there to get it off.

Can I weld another nut on it? Sure make it much simpler. Is there a market for these? = ) "Welded Bolt... Top Bolt"?

Eric
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gopack
post May 5 2009, 10:33 AM
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I did it by following this step by step tech article from Pelican Parts. I also bought all the parts from them as a thank you to the support they give us enthusiasts. Trust me, if I can do it, ANYONE can!
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Porsche Rescue
post May 5 2009, 10:51 AM
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Look at the Pelican article, page 2 at figure 16. It describes the bolt which also holds the starter on. You use a 17 mm box/open on the nut from the engine compartment side. Should be no need to weld anything.

Probably worth reading the entire article just for drill.
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Derek Seymour
post May 5 2009, 10:58 AM
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QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ May 4 2009, 08:47 AM) *

Call GPR, (800) 321-5432. List members, good guys.

The Cap'n


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I just did my clutch this last weekend... what a difference (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) ... GPR has them for a very reasonable price and they are great guys (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Cire
post May 5 2009, 12:04 PM
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Its all apart!!! Here are a few pictures. What are your thoughts on the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel? Also the clutch almost looks concaved from the side. Like it was pulled in to far or something. Could that have been the failure? Anyone ever seen it happen that way before. Let me know if you need more pictures of the clutch.

Thanks again everyone. Group Think ROCKS!!!

Eric

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Cire
post May 5 2009, 12:10 PM
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Cire
post May 5 2009, 12:12 PM
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