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> Water cooling issues on my v8 conversion, New problems
charliew
post May 10 2009, 01:27 PM
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You are the mech. but I always tried to avoid making a job harder than it needed to be. I don't see that the dist. removal is needed to get the manifold out but anyway. Check the rotor direction as that determines the way the wires go on the cap. Surely you didn't turn the motor over with the dist out. If the dist went back in all the way down it should still be in time. Just go by the firing sequence and put the wires back on the cap. Next time you need to remove the dist. leave at least one side of the motor wires on and it will be a lot easier. From the picture it looks like there is no firewall in the car.
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drive-ability
post May 10 2009, 01:36 PM
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QUOTE(JRust @ May 10 2009, 12:07 PM) *

Here are a few pics. Just a stock mechanical pump. I wanted to go to a remote as the stock one sticks out so far. I'm actually more worried about getting my firing order & timing figured out today. I think I've got the burping procedure down pretty good now. I didn't get to bleeding my brakes last night so I am doing that in a minute. I went & bought timing light as I didn't have one. Yeah back to the garage I go (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)



Oh Boy !
A factory pump humm (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

From the web the firing order is the same as the small block chev.
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JRust
post May 10 2009, 10:03 PM
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QUOTE(charliew @ May 10 2009, 12:27 PM) *

You are the mech. but I always tried to avoid making a job harder than it needed to be. I don't see that the dist. removal is needed to get the manifold out but anyway. Check the rotor direction as that determines the way the wires go on the cap. Surely you didn't turn the motor over with the dist out. If the dist went back in all the way down it should still be in time. Just go by the firing sequence and put the wires back on the cap. Next time you need to remove the dist. leave at least one side of the motor wires on and it will be a lot easier. From the picture it looks like there is no firewall in the car.


Pulled the distibutor to try to drill the bolt in the car. Still couldn't get a good straight shot & so pulled the manifold then. Took me a little while to get the distributor back in right. Didn't want to go down all the way. Yeah I know there is a slot it needs to line up just right with (now anyway). I did say I'm not a much of a mechanic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . Still learning more each day. Yes the firewall has a fairly large section cut out. Not my doing but how I bought it. It will be going back into place sometime this summer. I've got top dead center on #1 & my firing order. All plug wires back on & in the right spot. Timing still a little off but I'll figure it out tommorow.

I did get my brakes all done & bled. Also got my new Tarret drop links put on the front. Just need to get my timing right tommorow night. Then get to cleaning & shining her up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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Dr. Roger
post May 10 2009, 10:33 PM
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the pic explains a lot.

you'll never get air outta' there, unless you place an air trap hose and cap at the highest point in your cooling system.
in your case it is that big hose that arches (the high point) to the thermostat housing. and your little hose going to the intake manifold.

have you considered rerouting both so they won't trap air?
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computers4kids
post May 11 2009, 07:52 AM
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QUOTE(Dr. Roger @ May 10 2009, 09:33 PM) *

have you considered rerouting both so they won't trap air?


Jamie, Dr. Roger has an excellent observation. I know you said you had a fill point but I can't see it in your picture. It needs to be mounted so it is higher than any other point of water routing on your engine. Here's a few samples of different methods. Go get a $6 overflow kit at the FLAPS and move your fill point appropriately and get those high rising loops out of your design. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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boxstr
post May 11 2009, 11:39 AM
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Jamie, Make sure the tires on the trailer are in good condition.
CCLINHWY101
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Phoenix-MN
post May 11 2009, 12:11 PM
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The Buick timing cover is the same for the V6 and V8. I created a high pont to fill from and to easily change the thermostat by modifying a Fiero L4 filler neck (circled in red) This is now the highest point in the cooling system.

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JRust
post May 11 2009, 01:55 PM
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QUOTE(boxstr @ May 11 2009, 10:39 AM) *

Jamie, Make sure the tires on the trailer are in good condition.
CCLINHWY101


My trailer is brand spanking new & so are the tires. I also have 2 spares just to be sure. Smart ass with the good memory (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) . Looking forward to leaving thursday morning. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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JRust
post May 11 2009, 01:57 PM
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QUOTE(computers4kids @ May 11 2009, 06:52 AM) *

QUOTE(Dr. Roger @ May 10 2009, 09:33 PM) *

have you considered rerouting both so they won't trap air?


Jamie, Dr. Roger has an excellent observation. I know you said you had a fill point but I can't see it in your picture. It needs to be mounted so it is higher than any other point of water routing on your engine. Here's a few samples of different methods. Go get a $6 overflow kit at the FLAPS and move your fill point appropriately and get those high rising loops out of your design. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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My fill point is higher but hidden n the left. It is run off a tee in the line down low. Guess that isn't the way to go. I'll go get an overflow kit & get it done right. Thanks for all the great advice people (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . Getting closer everyday
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boxstr
post May 11 2009, 06:08 PM
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Jamie If you are ready in time, get some seat time in the V8 car. You will find out closer to hoem if you are going to have any issues before hauling it all the way to LA.
Jsut a thought.
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fiid
post May 11 2009, 06:52 PM
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I have a subaru motor; I have to say - burping a water cooled 914 is a total pain in the ass. I have a valve outlet on the top of my radiator that I use, and it still requires a lot of nursing to get the thing filled up and cooling properly. usually I connect a funnel to the radiator (via a tube) and squeeze the hoses to get the air bubbles to come out the burp valve, and then close the valve while there's still water sitting on top of it.

I think the real problem is that the hoses are low across the middle of the car; so you can't get the air from the front to return to the rear, because it will just sit up in the radiator, and the pumped water will trickle past it.

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JRust
post May 11 2009, 08:49 PM
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QUOTE(boxstr @ May 11 2009, 05:08 PM) *

Jamie If you are ready in time, get some seat time in the V8 car. You will find out closer to hoem if you are going to have any issues before hauling it all the way to LA.
Jsut a thought.
CCLINICOULDHAVEAV8


I plan to Craig. Wednesday I will spend most the day driving & spit shining it after that. Still this is a big reason I am taking a trailer. Better safe than sorry. I have experince with both (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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Bruce Hinds
post May 11 2009, 11:29 PM
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I think the real problem is that the hoses are low across the middle of the car; so you can't get the air from the front to return to the rear, because it will just sit up in the radiator, and the pumped water will trickle past it.
[/quote]

That is a major part of the problem, air will always go to the highest point and needs to get out. I used a regular radiator so it has a cap. I run my overflow hose to the back and "T" into the over flow tank with the other hose off rear fill. Just to complicate matters I have another high point. I installed a heater core in the fresh airbox for winter heat.
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LvSteveH
post May 12 2009, 04:50 PM
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The Renegade radiators have a bleed valve at the top to remove any air that accumulates up front. A well designed system should be able to be bled from several points to minimize trapped air.

I've had a few cars over the years that were extra hard to bleed for one reason or another. If all else fails you can put in some extra air bleeds and do the floor jack mambo. Basically just alternate lifting the car as high as possible at various angles to encourage the air to migrate to an available bleed site. Kind of like herding cats.

It's really nice to have a filler neck up high with a reservoir to collect any air that accumulates. That helps keep the air from moving through the system.

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JRust
post May 13 2009, 02:28 PM
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Okay so I have my car all timed & running well. Drove it for a good 2 hours today. Tried to do alot of it in town as that is where it heated up before. Not the best conditions here with it raining & about 55 degrees. I don't have a tstat in it at this point & am not putting one in for WCR. I couldn't hardly get my car to warm up. I hit a whopping 170 & couldn't get it go above that. It will be nice to see what some nice CA hot weather will do.

As things stand now. [b]I am ready to load up for WCR[b] (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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pjhaun
post May 22 2009, 07:41 AM
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Jamie,

What ever happen with your cooling problem?

Thank You!!!!!
Phillip J. Haun
Oak Harbor, WA.
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