Water cooling issues on my v8 conversion, New problems |
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Water cooling issues on my v8 conversion, New problems |
charliew |
May 10 2009, 01:27 PM
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#21
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 |
You are the mech. but I always tried to avoid making a job harder than it needed to be. I don't see that the dist. removal is needed to get the manifold out but anyway. Check the rotor direction as that determines the way the wires go on the cap. Surely you didn't turn the motor over with the dist out. If the dist went back in all the way down it should still be in time. Just go by the firing sequence and put the wires back on the cap. Next time you need to remove the dist. leave at least one side of the motor wires on and it will be a lot easier. From the picture it looks like there is no firewall in the car.
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drive-ability |
May 10 2009, 01:36 PM
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#22
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,169 Joined: 18-March 05 From: Orange County, California Member No.: 3,782 |
Here are a few pics. Just a stock mechanical pump. I wanted to go to a remote as the stock one sticks out so far. I'm actually more worried about getting my firing order & timing figured out today. I think I've got the burping procedure down pretty good now. I didn't get to bleeding my brakes last night so I am doing that in a minute. I went & bought timing light as I didn't have one. Yeah back to the garage I go (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Oh Boy ! A factory pump humm (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) From the web the firing order is the same as the small block chev. 18436572 |
JRust |
May 10 2009, 10:03 PM
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#23
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,307 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
You are the mech. but I always tried to avoid making a job harder than it needed to be. I don't see that the dist. removal is needed to get the manifold out but anyway. Check the rotor direction as that determines the way the wires go on the cap. Surely you didn't turn the motor over with the dist out. If the dist went back in all the way down it should still be in time. Just go by the firing sequence and put the wires back on the cap. Next time you need to remove the dist. leave at least one side of the motor wires on and it will be a lot easier. From the picture it looks like there is no firewall in the car. Pulled the distibutor to try to drill the bolt in the car. Still couldn't get a good straight shot & so pulled the manifold then. Took me a little while to get the distributor back in right. Didn't want to go down all the way. Yeah I know there is a slot it needs to line up just right with (now anyway). I did say I'm not a much of a mechanic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) . Still learning more each day. Yes the firewall has a fairly large section cut out. Not my doing but how I bought it. It will be going back into place sometime this summer. I've got top dead center on #1 & my firing order. All plug wires back on & in the right spot. Timing still a little off but I'll figure it out tommorow. I did get my brakes all done & bled. Also got my new Tarret drop links put on the front. Just need to get my timing right tommorow night. Then get to cleaning & shining her up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
Dr. Roger |
May 10 2009, 10:33 PM
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#24
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A bat out of hell. Group: Members Posts: 3,944 Joined: 31-January 05 From: Hercules, California Member No.: 3,533 Region Association: Northern California |
the pic explains a lot.
you'll never get air outta' there, unless you place an air trap hose and cap at the highest point in your cooling system. in your case it is that big hose that arches (the high point) to the thermostat housing. and your little hose going to the intake manifold. have you considered rerouting both so they won't trap air? |
computers4kids |
May 11 2009, 07:52 AM
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#25
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Love these little cars! Group: Members Posts: 2,443 Joined: 11-June 05 From: Port Townsend, WA Member No.: 4,253 Region Association: None |
have you considered rerouting both so they won't trap air? Jamie, Dr. Roger has an excellent observation. I know you said you had a fill point but I can't see it in your picture. It needs to be mounted so it is higher than any other point of water routing on your engine. Here's a few samples of different methods. Go get a $6 overflow kit at the FLAPS and move your fill point appropriately and get those high rising loops out of your design. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
boxstr |
May 11 2009, 11:39 AM
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#26
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MEMBER:PACIFIC NORTHWEST REGION Group: Members Posts: 7,522 Joined: 25-December 02 From: OREGON Member No.: 12 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Jamie, Make sure the tires on the trailer are in good condition.
CCLINHWY101 |
Phoenix-MN |
May 11 2009, 12:11 PM
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#27
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 927 Joined: 23-January 04 From: ST. Bonifacius,MN Member No.: 1,590 |
The Buick timing cover is the same for the V6 and V8. I created a high pont to fill from and to easily change the thermostat by modifying a Fiero L4 filler neck (circled in red) This is now the highest point in the cooling system.
Paul |
JRust |
May 11 2009, 01:55 PM
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#28
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,307 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Jamie, Make sure the tires on the trailer are in good condition. CCLINHWY101 My trailer is brand spanking new & so are the tires. I also have 2 spares just to be sure. Smart ass with the good memory (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) . Looking forward to leaving thursday morning. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
JRust |
May 11 2009, 01:57 PM
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#29
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,307 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
have you considered rerouting both so they won't trap air? Jamie, Dr. Roger has an excellent observation. I know you said you had a fill point but I can't see it in your picture. It needs to be mounted so it is higher than any other point of water routing on your engine. Here's a few samples of different methods. Go get a $6 overflow kit at the FLAPS and move your fill point appropriately and get those high rising loops out of your design. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) My fill point is higher but hidden n the left. It is run off a tee in the line down low. Guess that isn't the way to go. I'll go get an overflow kit & get it done right. Thanks for all the great advice people (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . Getting closer everyday |
boxstr |
May 11 2009, 06:08 PM
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#30
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MEMBER:PACIFIC NORTHWEST REGION Group: Members Posts: 7,522 Joined: 25-December 02 From: OREGON Member No.: 12 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Jamie If you are ready in time, get some seat time in the V8 car. You will find out closer to hoem if you are going to have any issues before hauling it all the way to LA.
Jsut a thought. CCLINICOULDHAVEAV8 |
fiid |
May 11 2009, 06:52 PM
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#31
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Turbo Megasquirted Subaru Member Group: Members Posts: 2,827 Joined: 7-April 03 From: San Francisco, CA Member No.: 530 Region Association: Northern California |
I have a subaru motor; I have to say - burping a water cooled 914 is a total pain in the ass. I have a valve outlet on the top of my radiator that I use, and it still requires a lot of nursing to get the thing filled up and cooling properly. usually I connect a funnel to the radiator (via a tube) and squeeze the hoses to get the air bubbles to come out the burp valve, and then close the valve while there's still water sitting on top of it.
I think the real problem is that the hoses are low across the middle of the car; so you can't get the air from the front to return to the rear, because it will just sit up in the radiator, and the pumped water will trickle past it. |
JRust |
May 11 2009, 08:49 PM
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#32
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,307 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Jamie If you are ready in time, get some seat time in the V8 car. You will find out closer to hoem if you are going to have any issues before hauling it all the way to LA. Jsut a thought. CCLINICOULDHAVEAV8 I plan to Craig. Wednesday I will spend most the day driving & spit shining it after that. Still this is a big reason I am taking a trailer. Better safe than sorry. I have experince with both (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
Bruce Hinds |
May 11 2009, 11:29 PM
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#33
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V-8 madness Group: Members Posts: 733 Joined: 27-December 06 From: Port Orchard, WA Member No.: 7,391 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I think the real problem is that the hoses are low across the middle of the car; so you can't get the air from the front to return to the rear, because it will just sit up in the radiator, and the pumped water will trickle past it. [/quote] That is a major part of the problem, air will always go to the highest point and needs to get out. I used a regular radiator so it has a cap. I run my overflow hose to the back and "T" into the over flow tank with the other hose off rear fill. Just to complicate matters I have another high point. I installed a heater core in the fresh airbox for winter heat. |
LvSteveH |
May 12 2009, 04:50 PM
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#34
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I put the Poor in Porsche Group: Members Posts: 1,080 Joined: 22-April 03 From: Las Vegas, Nevada Member No.: 600 |
The Renegade radiators have a bleed valve at the top to remove any air that accumulates up front. A well designed system should be able to be bled from several points to minimize trapped air.
I've had a few cars over the years that were extra hard to bleed for one reason or another. If all else fails you can put in some extra air bleeds and do the floor jack mambo. Basically just alternate lifting the car as high as possible at various angles to encourage the air to migrate to an available bleed site. Kind of like herding cats. It's really nice to have a filler neck up high with a reservoir to collect any air that accumulates. That helps keep the air from moving through the system. |
JRust |
May 13 2009, 02:28 PM
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#35
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,307 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Okay so I have my car all timed & running well. Drove it for a good 2 hours today. Tried to do alot of it in town as that is where it heated up before. Not the best conditions here with it raining & about 55 degrees. I don't have a tstat in it at this point & am not putting one in for WCR. I couldn't hardly get my car to warm up. I hit a whopping 170 & couldn't get it go above that. It will be nice to see what some nice CA hot weather will do.
As things stand now. [b]I am ready to load up for WCR[b] (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) |
pjhaun |
May 22 2009, 07:41 AM
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#36
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Member Group: Members Posts: 370 Joined: 21-August 03 Member No.: 1,055 Region Association: None |
Jamie,
What ever happen with your cooling problem? Thank You!!!!! Phillip J. Haun Oak Harbor, WA. |
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