more about Fuchs, Fuchs Options

[ME733]

You have asked about the fuchs which came on my 914 S....here goes...the O.E.M. spare rim is dated 8-72...and so are all the others.....and they are part#...914.361.011.00 .They look different in /on the backside than THE PHOTOGRAPH with notes you have shown......as a point of intrest the spare RIM and ALL the four on the ground are identical in every way...EXCEPT the four on the ground have a Painted BACKGROUND.....and after looking closely with a magnifing glass its obvious they are painted...and not quite dead flat black....they are Not anodized....the spare tire is an original tire ..DUNLOP 165 hr 15....looks like it and the rim have NEVER been used...the rim is clean and perfect (both sides and the tire has full tread....and is not dry rotted.(cracks showing in sidewalls)..However,.I would never consider using it obviously. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[Tom_T]

Thanx - great info ME733,

Your info proves that they did in fact produce Fuchs wheels without the hub-centric (self-centering) inset with part number ending -00, as well as early 1973 2Ls with the old flat front hubs.

BTW - the anodizing is a heat tempering process done on the metal to harden it regardless of the finish (rough, matte, polished, etc.) - so you really acnnot "see" anodized finish, as it's a post finishing process to make the wheels stronger & surface harder. There are places around which will refinish & re-anodize them.

I'd suggest you carefully take the paint off the 4 with acetone or solvent, in order to put them back to original finish all around. There's an instructional post at Pelican & AutoAtlanta on how to bring them back to as new look yourself.

Oh....and...... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

Best!
Tom
///////

[ME733]

Tom...this is murray.,,I found your questions intresting.,and it was informative to me personally to "discover" facts about my fuchs that I just never thought about. maybe this information will be of use to someone...this helps me toward conferming that I really do have a real 1973 2.0 S. this car has every option except a heated rear window. I must say that I prefer the look of the mahle wheels which were also available. I suppose you could have a choise at the dealer, but I am pretty sure the 2.0 S came with the fuchs as a standard equipment , maxed out, upgraded "super car!!!!" 914. for 1973. I prefer the original FUCHS unpainted look also, could you assist in helping me find the article/ info you mentioned to remove the paint safely. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif)

[Pat Garvey]

Two things here, and the post will be moved to the nailed thread.

First, I agree that non-hub centric Fuchs were available for very early 2.0's (I don't use the "S" designation because it was a strictly North American marketing tool). I can testify to the non-hub centric Fuchs' because my very late 72 was delivered with the 4 1/2 inch wheels instead of the 5 1/2 wheels of the app grp. The dealer installed a set of Fuchs wheels to placate me, but I didn't like them (yeah...dumb!). They fit, car ran well - I just wanted what I paid for - 5 1/2 in steelies. They removed them, put them back on the 2 liter car they came from & eventually got a proper set of wheels & tires for my car.

This was early August 1972.

More fun facts for the masses!

[Tom_T]

BTW Pat -

Because the early hubs were flat & the wheels had an inst (not a bump out) - EITHER the -00 or -01 Alloy Wheels of all brands will fit onto the non-hub-centric front hubs ("hub-centric" is also a marketing name btw for self-centering type hubs, now commonly used like xerox for copy).

I agree with your opinion of the Fuchs 2L Alloys & thought that the Mahle 4-lugs & Rivieras looked much better. But my research has shown that it was indeed fitted with the Fuchs, so now I have to try to find 5 good ones at a high price! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

....too bad you don't have those from the dealer laying around your garage somewhere! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I may keep the Rivieras & clean them up for a "modern" 195/65HR15 set of tires for driving, & just keep a set of proper OE 165HR15 on the Fuchs for show purposes per the other tires discussion thread. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[McMark]

the anodizing is a heat tempering process

Anodizing in an electrical process involving cathode/anode interactions in a chemical bath. Heat isn't a significant part of the process. Anodizing makes the surface harder and impervious to oxidation. After anodizing, but before sealing, a dye can be sprayed, dipped, or brushed onto the part to color it.

[EdwardBlume]

the anodizing is a heat tempering process

Anodizing in an electrical process involving cathode/anode interactions in a chemical bath. Heat isn't a significant part of the process. Anodizing makes the surface harder and impervious to oxidation. After anodizing, but before sealing, a dye can be sprayed, dipped, or brushed onto the part to color it.

So if you have oxidation on a Fuch, at some point the anodization has been worn off or is the changed surface metal worn?

[Pat Garvey]

the anodizing is a heat tempering process

Anodizing in an electrical process involving cathode/anode interactions in a chemical bath. Heat isn't a significant part of the process. Anodizing makes the surface harder and impervious to oxidation. After anodizing, but before sealing, a dye can be sprayed, dipped, or brushed onto the part to color it.

So if you have oxidation on a Fuch, at some point the anodization has been worn off or is the changed surface metal worn?

The anodizing in extremely thin, and will wear with age or cleaning with abrasive compounds. The wheels CAN be re-anodized, and though it's the best thing to do, it's not cheap!

I've been laboring with this subject for my 73T. It came with pale green dyed/anodized cookie cutters. Other than one spot, on one wheel, the green dye is gone - from over cleaning. Admittedly, on a blood orange car, the green-caste (& it was very light) looked a little funky, but it was the early 70's! Probably won't redo the dye, but will address the oxidation.

These wheels CAN be polished, but without anodizing you'll be redoing the polishing every couple of months. BTDT.

[Tom_T]

the anodizing is a heat tempering process

Anodizing in an electrical process involving cathode/anode interactions in a chemical bath. Heat isn't a significant part of the process. Anodizing makes the surface harder and impervious to oxidation. After anodizing, but before sealing, a dye can be sprayed, dipped, or brushed onto the part to color it.

Thanx for the correction/clarification McMark! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I actually read up on a company in No. San Diego County which does regular & "deep anodizing" which is supposed to be harder & more durable. They also do chrome & cad plating, but don't know quality as I've never used them.
http://www.prime-plating.com/?utm_source=g...CFRwpawodyX0FBQ

Sea Salt air is especially notorious for causing the white oxidation on the old aluminum sliding windows which were anodized, so that may be what some are seeing if they're close enough to the ocean to catch the on-shore breezes.

[Tom_T]

Listing of several wheel refinishers on both coasts with contact info. FYI -
http://members.rennlist.com/911pcars/FuchsPolishing.htm

[Tom_T]

the anodizing is a heat tempering process

Anodizing in an electrical process involving cathode/anode interactions in a chemical bath. Heat isn't a significant part of the process. Anodizing makes the surface harder and impervious to oxidation. After anodizing, but before sealing, a dye can be sprayed, dipped, or brushed onto the part to color it.

So McMark - on those 2L alloys - did they color the background to that matte or satin silver finish, then seal them???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

If so, what is the correct dye & finish on that background area??? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

...as opposed to the semi-polished "petals" or "windmill blades" & rims or lips below:

[orthobiz]

So McMark - on those 2L alloys - did they color the background to that matte or satin silver finish, then seal them???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

If so, what is the correct dye & finish on that background area??? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

...as opposed to the semi-polished "petals" or "windmill blades" & rims or lips below:

I believe the wheel is not colored and the difference in appearance or "shading" is due only to the recessing of the areas between the spokes and in the level of polishing of the spokes. An optical phenomenon.

Paul

[Tom_T]

I suppose the background could be more of a raw unpolished (maybe just burnished or smoothed after casting/forging) - vs. the semi-polished on the blades & lip/rim.

I'm going over to Al Reed's on Monday to see a newly restored & re-anodized set, & will try to take a pic to post with restoration info. for his shop.

He was saying $140 each to restore/refinish & re-anodize.

[6freak]

new Fuchs now available through Porsche ...$1030.00 a copy...seen them a Parade ..Awsome

[Tom_T]

new Fuchs now available through Porsche ...$1030.00 a copy...seen them a Parade ..Awsome

Makes the restoration route sound like a deal at almost $6000 incl. Tax, S&H for 5 of those from Porsche! ...heck, and to think the set of 5 was only $800 in 1973 MY! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[6freak]

new Fuchs now available through Porsche ...$1030.00 a copy...seen them a Parade ..Awsome

Makes the restoration route sound like a deal at almost $6000 incl. Tax, S&H for 5 of those from Porsche! ...heck, and to think the set of 5 was only $800 in 1973 MY! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Yea there spendy....good luck restoring yours

[Tom_T]

new Fuchs now available through Porsche ...$1030.00 a copy...seen them a Parade ..Awsome

Are these ones that you're talking about - the 5-lug 6er Fuchs - or the 4-lug 2L Fuchs?? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Is there a link to find them at the Porsche website, since I can't find a page there for it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

btw - $5-6000 for wheels alone on an "at best" $20k value car doesn't make economical sense "Spendy"! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

However, there are a number of Pros who can get the 4-lug 2L Fuchs back to as or better than new, & some of those apparently have done well at Parade.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

[6freak]

Talk`n bout the 5 lugs.....From Porsche Design..Sorry bout the confushion

[Tom_T]

Talk`n bout the 5 lugs.....From Porsche Design..Sorry bout the confushion

No prob - we all get half-zymers now & again! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

This link has a bunch of wheel refinishers & restorers, mostly in CA.
http://members.rennlist.com/911pcars/FuchsPolishing.htm

I just saw both 5 & 4 lug Fuchs at Al reed's shop & he does excellent work. I was quoted $140 per for the 4-lugs, but the 5-lugs can't be much different.

There's also one group in WA closer to you.

Hope that helps save a bit off the $1060 per new wheel! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[6freak]

If I keep buy`n fancy stuff I`ll never get that 2.2 built .So that kinda money for wheels is out of the ? ...I already have 3 sets of wheels and tires i play with know i dont need more